Ideas for shelves / insert??

[Coytee]

Here's a picture of what will become my hidden wall. I'm going to bury my LaScalas in this wall. I have one in its "home" temporarily so it's out of the way while I continue to listen to it while working.

The next picture is of the other side and you can see not only the hole where the LaScala will go, but the hole above it where I intend on placing some amps, cd players & the like.

this opening is going to end up being ~about~ 26" by up to 48" tall.

I can build shelves inside there or I can build ONE shelf and perhaps insert some kind of store bought rack that would end up having adjustable shelves??

I'll be framing out inside the closet with 2x4 stud supports for the depth of the main shelf so I'm not afraid of having too much weight on it. I can put as many supports as needed along there and can/will be using 2x4's as my cross braces too.

Any ideas?

[Coytee]

Oh, and pay no heed to the roll of TP... I use it for my sinuses when I'm kicking up the dust.

[WMcD]

Some shelves have worked for me. I have some equipment on a good looking Sanus and the rest on a cheapo tea cart. The latter works best for me as an apartment dweller. Easy to move around; and it is open pretty much at the back. Somewhat easy to play with the interconnects.

But I'm going vote against the notion that you have a cavity and then find a store-bought set which will fit inside. Rather, I'd suggest you put in some ladder type supports and cut some plywood (not saggy MDF) to hold the equipment. I trust something in the installation will allow you access to the back for fooling with interconnects. Perhaps some glass doors in front will allow operation of IR remotes. You obviously have the talent to do these things.

I'm a bit sour on cool looking cabinets after an episode with a good buddy's system. He was in a situation where he had to get into the new house and set up the big screen TV and HT receiver and various players. He bought a very nice under TV stand made of glass and black steel.

But it was left up to me to set things up. The glass shelves were not adjustable and the tall receiver would only fit on the lower one. Not good placement in my view. There was a support in the back which got in the way of interconnects. It was the typical contortion act with a flashlight.

My thought is that store-bought shelves and racks wind up dictating where things will go and remove all flexibilty. And if you want to change and expand, things get worse.

Best.

Gil

[colterphoto1]

yes adjustable shelves. Put those moveable standards on the sides and rear center, carefully aligned. It's best to cut them into a dado for a nice flush appearance.

Build the shelves of 3/4" ply with 1/2 poplar on the edge for support. This can be routed for a nicer appearance. Place a couple good sized notches in the back edge for A/C cables and line feeds (separately please) and voila-

[Coytee]

Ok guys... disclaimer...I'm shelf stupid... my wife says I over build everything.

I've been doing some google searches for adjustable shelving and so far I've only seen the little strips that I might buy at Home depot with the slots going up it. They don't inspire awe & confidence in me.

I've also found some ideas for making wood 'notches' where a shelf would slide into a wooden receiver (dado type?)

Going back to the vertical metal strips... is anyone here really comfortable putting a shelf on one of those so you have an 88 pound amp sitting 5' off the ground?

Heck... if I had my way I'd use 2x12's for supports!!

Seriously though... if you're going to have an 88 pound amp sitting on a shelf, where do you find heavy duty hardware for the shelf bracketry?

(I'm heading back to a google search now to keep looking)

[dtel]

I built my Grandson a bookcase, but you could use 2"x4", I ripped them half 2"x 1 3/4". After it was all framed I went back and cut some Oak plywood and covered all sides including under the shelves. The last step before stain/clear was to use that iron on banding to cover the edges, it works great.

Try to build it so the banding is not facing the front, can't really see it unless you are looking for it.

[dtel]

It is the cheapest way to make a nice shelf that can hold a lot of weight. It's not really that hard, just time consuming.

Here is another to give you a better idea.

[Coytee]

Alas...Dtel... are they adjustable?

I don't want to do an amp flip later on and have either NO room for it, or 12" above it ....

maybe I can drag your hiney up here and you can make them?

(actually I think it would be Christi dragging your hiney)

[]

While dragging...you may as well schlep up your table saw, band saw, drum sander...

[dtel]

No they are not adjustable, very permanent, the whole thing is screwed to the wall. But the height of the shelves could be made a little bigger than what you need so they could fit any equipment.

I would think anything adjustable would not be as strong ? You could also make the back of the shelves stop about 2" from the back wall to pass any cables and wires.

If I didn't live so far from 10 E SEE I would.

[dtel]

That hole looks really deep, is there any way to cut the depth in half and put a skinny door between those last 2 studs on the left rear, facing the other door.?

If that would leave the shelves deep enough you could walk behind the shelves. it would be VERY handy for wires and changes.

[gaspr]

Why not by or build something on heavy casters that could be rolled in

or out of the hole? You could even frame it with a casing to make

it look built in.

[michael hurd]

Home Depot here in Canada has some nice Rubbermaid brand adjustable heavy duty shelf brackets and tracking. Each bracket has 4 hooks, and the tracking is HEAVY duty. It is expensive, but well worth it in the end. I can vouch for the sturdiness, I installed this product in my brother's home, in 3 closets.

[colterphoto1]

Richard, those little brackets in the slotted metal are JUST FINE. It's amazing how much they will hold. The trick is getting the shelf stiff enough to not bow. That's where putting the 1x2 on the front edge (I suppose you could do the back edge also- comes into play.

Those little brackets are very stiff, and if you enclose the metal strips in a dado, there is no where for the metal to deform into if it were to try to collapse. I've used these in numerous projects with no failures.

If you wanted, you could just dado a fixed shelf for the 88 pound amp and create adjustable shelves above or below for other components.

Or just put PA rack mount rails in. You would then mount any rack mount units directly and get the rack mount shelves and drawers for other goodies. This is the method that Mssr. Picky has chosen for his theater.

[colterphoto1]

The case I made to hold LP's and books has 1/4" holes drilled at intervals, which accept another form of clip. I have them loaded with stuff and no failures. I think I spaced them 1 1/2" apart- create a template to clamp in place to drill the holes with. If you don't have the means to create the dado for the metal strips, this method works well.

[colterphoto1]

[Klipschfoot]

Going back to the vertical metal strips... is anyone here really comfortable putting a shelf on one of those so you have an 88 pound amp sitting 5' off the ground?

Can't you just put the amp on the bottom shelf if you are unsure of safety? That way, you could support the bottom shelf as heavy as you feel comfortable. I built recessed shelves in the basement for my CD collection (okay PART of my collection) using the the adjustable rails nailed into a routed groove (Colter's dado). Their sturdiness will depend on the thickness of the side panels onto which you are nailing the rails and size of nails/screws you use. But an 88 pound gorilla? Yea, I would like that sitting on the base so you could support the base shelf as heavy as you want since it won't be seen. Are you going to leave the rear open or curtained for servicing from the back?

[Coytee]

am I leaving the rear open?

right now, I'm not sure exactly what I'm going to do. Unseen in the pictures are an access door that will go in there from the garage so I'll be able to get behind the scenes and rewire if needed.

[Klipschfoot]

I am not an expert, but I kind of like the idea of leaving a couple of shelves empty and accessible from the back for trying new gear. That is not everyone's cup of tea but I like to experiment with yard sale finds, etc. I have a 2-source, 3-speaker selector that allows me that option. I am finally feeling somewhat satisfied with my setup so far, allowing my kids to have their game machines, three video sources (I have TWO AV source selectors), and my little corner with TT, pre and amp on a, get this, Bretford printer stand. Yeah, printer stand. It is short and solid, and I just landed a perfectly cut piece of 1.25" rose(?) granite for the TT base. I don't have much space to fiddle with but I get a lot of mileage from it. It is really makeshift, but I have multiple media optionsCD, Two VHS, MD, cassette, vinyl, PS2, XBOX, SNES, Dreamcast, and whatever you may plug into the external front source of either selectors (both JVC's). I will never have a professionally finished HT room. Media changes to fast.

I have several old Audio/Video Interiors magazines. I cannot imagine what these folks spent on their gear and installation. But, after 10 years, the game has entirely changed. Looking through a Feb '97 edition, it is comical to see the amount of money spent on "cutting edge" technology. Now those same folks would look stupid bragging about that same gear. A 42" Mitsubishi Hi Res CRT rising out of a faux blanket chest at the foot of the bed? PU-LEEEEASE! The only area to stand the test of time, IMO, is 2CH audio. Long live 2CH. Long live the analog benchmark.

[Joe Shmoe]

When I had my house, I built this into the corner & used ball bearing rollers. They were pretty easy to istall, but they are not adjustable. There are different sizes, according to how much weight they will be supporting.

[dkp]

Those shelves looked great, Joe. Your room was really pretty special. PM sent...

-David