fenderbender Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 You could spend a bundle on a turntable alone!!!! Some would say go with a classic Thorens etc...... Others would say get a high end Rega, VPI Etc.... I think your best bet ....since you are in a showroom and it will get beat up a bit buy all kind of fools, is to go with the Reliable and great sounding Technics SL-1200 with a shure or stanton cartridge....new out the door for $500 or less ....... DJ's use these cause you can throw it in the back of a van night after night and it'll keep on spining, perfectly. It's no slouch sonically....Lots of us here use them as our primary tables...IMO you need to spend about 2-3K to best it, and then only buy small amounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 On the preamp, if you could pick up a preowned basic Blueberry, that would be an economical way to get an excellent phono stage. They come up a few times a year. Of course JM does all kinds of higher end phono stages, but the BB would still blow most folks away with phono preamp and linestage excellence. If you should decide to stick with a linestage preamp, the Peach is killer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whamo Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 I think the best bang for the buck would be a "Nosvalved" Scott 299 for starters. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryC Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Others would say get a high end Rega, VPI Etc.... And to that add Basis, which I and Garymd like very much. Probably too high for you, but this seems like a good price with the enhanced tonearm and especially the $300 Basis clamp: http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?anlgtabl&1223387489 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrTUBE Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 I design, built and service tube amps for years... So needless to say that I am in accordance with this : You have heard 1 topology of tubes, there are several. I used to own Belles and use SET amps. Low Power, but for me provide the most enjoyable sound. So get yourself a SET amp, 300B, 2A3 or 45 amp to demo, before you decide. A 300B no FB single ended tube amp would be a good choice, since its damping factor is moderate, and you will have 6-8WRMS output, which is interesting. I use mine with my HERESY 1 with success and my DIY CW. Bear in mind that the damping factor is an important part of the sound in the amp-speaker combination : high damping factor amps (typically solid-state) gives tighter sound than moderate damping factor amps (mostly tube amps). But a Mc INTOSH 240 won't sound like a WE300B (on the same speaker) : both are tube-made, but the first is tighter than the second, thanks to its higher damping factor - so that's why there is a typology of tube amps. On some speakers, low DF will give heavy, lousy sound, and high DF will be suitable. On the contrary, the HERESY, which is a well damped speaker, will perform better, more "freely", on a low DF amp. It works well also with a friend's SCALA. You should try before you decide, but a DYNACO ST70 - in perfect working condition = serviced - would be a good alternative : less damping than the Mc240, more than the 300B... it's up to your taste ! About the preamp : tube is not compulsory, since it is less obvious than the DF of the amp, and it is mainly important for RIAA use. With a CD, you just need a pair of audio pots in a shielded box, that audiophiles call "passive preamp"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Todd, Todd, Todd...these guys are gonna ruin your perfectly good business! The Texarkana and market of early Bruce is no more, but what the heck, there's money there now and you never know. Okies, next time in town I am gonna bring some serious source material and a few cold ones. Let's listen and catch up on Sound Towne history and I can judge just how badly down the reactionary road to ruin you are. Then, I'll give you a shove... Gentlemen, another poor schnook with an overdose of the warm radiation from tubes. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoundTowne Posted August 15, 2008 Author Share Posted August 15, 2008 Thanks for the words of advise guys. This is definitely new territory for me. I am enjoying sound tracks of Dolby True HD and DTS Master Audio on Blu Ray on a RF83 system. This tube stuff has really sparked my interest. Dave let me know when you are stopping by, would be great to meet you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Thanks for the words of advise guys. This is definitely new territory for me. I am enjoying sound tracks of Dolby True HD and DTS Master Audio on Blu Ray on a RF83 system. This tube stuff has really sparked my interest. Dave let me know when you are stopping by, would be great to meet you. Looking forward to it... Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artto Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 I might also mention using a thermonic electron current limiting diode with built-in indicator light to start tube gear that hasn’t been on for a while. It’s a rather simple device composed of a surface mounted electron emitting diode receptacle secured to a small piece of hard fibrous cellulose xylem. The electron current limiting diode is inserted into the surface mounted receptacle. The receptacle is series wired to a common two prong standard electrical outlet plug on one end, and the other end has a female outlet to plug the amplifier into. You can modify a standard extension cord for this purpose. The electron emitting diode should be 25 to 15 watts. This device works best when used in conjunction with a variac. As the variac voltage is increased, you eventually see thermonic action from the electron diode which also acts as a current limiting device in the event of catastrophic failure thereby protecting the amplifier from further damage and do so faster than the amp’s fuse/circuit breaker does. When the thermonic electron emitting diode is glowing softly/dimly the power supply capacitors should be reformed and the amp may be used normally. In power amps all the tubes should be removed during this procedure ~ except of course, the rectifier tube. In pre-amplifiers it’s alright to leave the tubes in. If you don’t use a variac to slowly power up tube amps that have been off for a long time (at least a few months) (especially old ones) you run the risk of (depending on the amplifier design) blowing output and/or driver tubes as well as catastrophic failure. The device I described above could be used in lieu of a variac but it won’t bring the voltage up slowly. It’s best to use both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artto Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 another view Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoundTowne Posted August 17, 2008 Author Share Posted August 17, 2008 Artto, looks kinda complex for me, maybe one of the guys could help me build it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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