rcarlton Posted October 22, 2008 Author Share Posted October 22, 2008 Both speakers are completed. All that is left is fixing blemishes,sanding and finishing. Speaker on the right has had a light sanding (150 grit). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted October 22, 2008 Author Share Posted October 22, 2008 Right side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted October 22, 2008 Author Share Posted October 22, 2008 Left side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechMan Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 Absolutely stunning work. Whats the plan for the driver openings...Black?,or something more elaborate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted October 29, 2008 Author Share Posted October 29, 2008 I'm planning on using black for the driver openings. Of course I'm open to other ideas. Starting final sanding and touchup this weekend. Materials for filling cracks: Super glue Epoxy Sawdust Artist paints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted October 31, 2008 Author Share Posted October 31, 2008 Ok, I'm paranoid about checking. How about this for tape? No checks (yet)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 On the home stretch. Speakers have been sanded with 220 sandpaper, imperfections are all filled, and in some cases painted. Waiting on paint to dry, light 320 sanding by hand and sanding sealer next. Bases are lacquered, sanded with 320, 400, 600, 2000 self lubricating paper (used soapy water), rubbed with pumice (FF) and paraffin oil using a cork sanding block and cotton cloth, and finally rubbed with paraffin oil and Rotten stone using a felt sanding block. [O][&] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 View from above. I'm leaning toward the pie slice logo. Naturally that is a logo I don't have...have the brass retangular plate.[] You might notice the tops look a little different than in the earlier picture. One top and side had too many checks in the veneer...it wasn't acceptable so I simply sanded it down and started over. No big deal. [:@] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 View from above. I'm leaning toward the pie slice logo. Naturally that is a logo I don't have...have the brass retangular plate. You might notice the tops look a little different than in the earlier picture. One top and side had too many checks in the veneer...it wasn't acceptable so I simply sanded it down and started over. No big deal. Beautiful work Ron. I vote for Pie Slice. Logo that is! : ) So does that mean that you sanded the new top veneer completely off and put new veneer on? Or just sanded down the new veneer and veneered over it? Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted November 3, 2008 Author Share Posted November 3, 2008 Greg, I sanded completely through the old veneer to the glue line. I did this because sanding the old veneer with 80 grit paper and putting glue on it caused the old veneer to form lots of bubbles. Probably thinned the veneer enough for the glue to soak through. Needed a solid substrate, which left me no choice, but to sand through to the glue line. All sanded with 320 paper, waiting on daylight to put sanding sealer on. My garage at night with a light bulb on tends to draw insects. Not good for finish work. I agree...pie slice logo looks to be the way to go. The speakers are all lacquered. Waiting a month before I rub them out and have them complete. They are safely locked in a spare bedroom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 Sanded the speakers with 320 wet dry paper and soapy water last week. Wasn't happy with the way the lacquer filled in some spots, so I added another coat of lacquer. It wasn't bad, just not perfect. They now have sanding sealer and 4-coats of brush on lacquer. The veneer was not as smooth as I would have liked. There were some highly figured areas in which it would be impossible to sand perfectly smooth (remember, I completely sanded the veneer off of one speaker on purpose and could not get it smooth without seeing the glue line). Looks as if the lacquer has filled these areas in perfectly now. Three more weeks of waiting for the lacquer to cure. I have the pie slice logo's all ready to go. Left to complete: 320 wet/dry 400 wet/dry 600 wet/dry Pumice stone FF (cork sanding block) Rotten stone (felt sanding block) Wax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARBUM Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 Ron, in your experience what would be the best kind or type of veneer to use for the person who has never veneered a surface. I am in the process of building a pair of Cornscalas, not ready just yet soon. Just trying to gather as much information as possibe to made my quest easy. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 I think the paperbacked would be easiest to use for a beginner (even for someone with experience). The raw wood can be fussy...checking has been the number one problem I have dealt with. With the raw Rosewood veneers,having used; Bubinga and Santos, consider not using the iron on method but rather contact cement. The moisture in the glue contributes to checking. Next time I will experiment with hide glue. Walnut burl using the iron on method has worked well. Seems to be veneer dependent. With something like the Cornscalas experimenting may cause too much frustration. Try the paperback. More expensive, but less headaches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Ron: Beautiful work! Those look amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted January 25, 2009 Author Share Posted January 25, 2009 Waited a couple of months for the lacquer to cure. Finished one speaker, sanded with 320, 400, 600, 800, 2000 and rotten stone with paraffin oil. I used mineral spirits for the other grits of wet/dry paper. Finished off with paste furniture wax. The second speaker is waiting on the tops lacquer to cure enough to finish it, about another week to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted January 25, 2009 Author Share Posted January 25, 2009 Close up of logo. After looking at the picture looks as if I'll have to spray some flat black in the bottom opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 Beautiful work there, Ron! I had a question about the visibility of the paper when using paper-backed veneer (at edges and corners), but judging by that last shot, it is NOT an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted January 26, 2009 Author Share Posted January 26, 2009 fini, I used raw veneer. No paperbacking. Rosewood is such an oily wood I recommend paperbacked veneer. The raw veneer was not the smoothest veneer to work with. Had to use enough brush on lacquer to smooth out the irregularities. Worked, in most cases requiring 5-6 coats of lacquer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 Ah, OK. It's been a while since I read through the thread! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesV Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 Ron, Wow those look great... [H] James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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