Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 As I’m working on it. Fortunately, the original birch veneer is holding up pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Not bad!! Coming out very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Now back to the H-I’s. Here’s what the polyester resin and the bondo filler look like when dry and sanded. Ugly, and the photo can fool you. The edges and corners are like a knife!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 After checking and intermediate sanding, I go back and check each area that I want to apply a final filler, etc. I want to make sure that when I apply the new veneer that the panels are perfectly flat and the corners are "square". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Marking what needs attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Same thing for Carl’s H-II’s.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Unless you are very familiar with a random orbital sander, the best method to "square" corners that you rebuilt is to use a sanding block and 180 grit paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 I use an "A" weight paper. It’s a light weight paper and easier to "feel" when working with the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 For little teeny weenie details, I make a teeny weenie block sander out of a piece of 3/4" birch plywood. Cut a strip; roll it around; glue the loose end and it can get into corners, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Very handy for cleaning up inside edges of edgebanding, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Now I make up small batches of the bondo. Use very small amounts of the hardener or it will harden before you can get it applied. Only make small batches, or just enough for one or two corners, etc.. The bondo can now be used over the resin/ epoxy stuff, because that stuff made the MDF hard. The bondo which is a polyester resin will chemically bind to the epoxy stuff you saw used earlier in the massive "surgery". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 The Bondo works well, but is difficult to use on small imperfections. For those teeny weenie imperfections I use a laquer based glazing putty. Very easy to work with, dries hard, and sands perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Note Bondo for larger areas and the glazing putty on "edges", etc. Be liberal and spread it out and feather it in when sanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 For all it’s utility, Bondo has a tendency to have little air holes, cavities, etc. when dry and sanded. The glazing putty is very fine and seals those holes. Here’s the application on the bondo on the H-I’s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Now for the detail work with the sanding block. You can make corners so sharp they will cut you!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 When working your corners, do one side at a time and bring it flush to the panel. ONLY sand in the diagonal direction away from the corner. If you don’t, the paper can "grab" the filler and pull it away.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Another view of this final corner building process. Looks rough, but just do one angle at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 The same corner... finished.... Sharp & square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 This next part is critical to the success of the re-veneering. One of two things have to be in place for the veneer to work: Both relate to the final sanding. If I am going to use Heatlock glue and iron the veneer on, I will only final sand the wood to a 180/220 grit surface. I need some grain surface for that glue to adhere to. It is water based, fairly thick and does not easily penetrate the wood if the sanding is too fine. The stuff has to penetrate into the wood so when it cures, it binds the veneer to the wood. In this case however, I am going to use PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) backed veneer and in the case of Carl’s H-II’s, veneer contact cement. PSA and contact cement require a finer, smoother finish so the majority of the adhesive does not penetrate or saturate the wood. Not only will I use 220 and then 320 grit for a very smooth finish, I will also use an oil based sanding sealer when I’m finished to make sure the surface is ready with a chemical coating that will bond with the contact cement/ adhesive, etc. The tool? Random orbital sander and the pads... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 For beginners to the world of re-veneering.... I mentioned "Heatlock" glue and an iron. Very easy to work with. Surface prep is easy, and it’s easy to tell if you have not got it right. You can also use the iron to touch up where veneer is lifting, etc. If you are interested in technical details of the different methods of veneering, you should also go to www.joewoodworker.com and read his reference library regarding how to veneer. I will do one of the cabinet panels of the H-I's later to demonstrate how to use the heatlock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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