Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Carl's H-II's "in the rough". Panels are applied and trimmed, etc. The next part of this takes a considerable amount of time and attention to detail. It's called blending and "easing". Using a sanding block and 220 or 360 grit, you must absolutely blend the tops and bottoms into the side panels. The effect will be a perfectly straight and sharp knife edge seam and corners. It should be done by hand. I can do it with a random orbital sander and 400 or 600 grit, but it's tricky and takes a lot of practice. "easing" is very, very, very, very carefully making a two part bevel on the edges. It should be almost imperceptible, and can only be "felt" by running your fingers along the seam. The reason for this is to prevent veneer lifting, and to lessen the chance of damage to edges and corners from normal use. If done properly, it still looks like a "Ginsu steak knife", but is protected by the geometry of the bevel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Next is "pinning" the edgebanding to make sure that the inner edge is exactly parallel to the inner edge of the cabinet panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Once the edgebanding is "pinned", then it's easy to glue the rest down, but... only to within about 1" of the corner. Notice in the previous photo that the edgebanding strips are "overlapped" in a clockwise manner. When the corner 45 degree angles are cut, they will be "symetrical" in appearance. Key to cutting? I have tried just about every possible method but found the most accurate and reliable method is the super sharp wood chisel. It is carefully honed on the bevel to cutting edge with 1000 grit paper, then 1600 grit, and then on a leather "strop". Always hone away from the edge with a final strop wipe on the flat side to remove any super fine "curling" of the metal. All it takes is hand pressure and it slices through the edgebanding like a hot knife through butter.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Finished, blended, eased, final sanded with 400 grit to prep the surface for the stain, and wiped with mineral spirits. Carl's will have 4 "fast coats" of Minwax Golden Oak. A "fast coat" is wiped on, excess immediately wiped off; allow to set up for about 5 minutes, then apply the next coat, etc. This allows a very gradual and controlled change in the darkness of the stain to the desired hue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 I mentioned stainless steel utensils, scoops, mixing bowls etc. Stainless steel works best; it's neutral, is not affected by anything, and can be cleaned up very easily with whatever solvent is required for the glue, paint, stain you used. Also environmentally friendly (no plastic throw away stuff, etc.). I put a 1/2 cup of the stain in the bowl and work from the bowl. No mess on the can, the lid, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Application.... I use an old cotton shop rag that's been washed about 30 times (no lint, threads, etc.); cut into a s" strip and rolled up. Wear a rubber/ latex glove and let the cloth roll soak up the stain; then apply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 One of the biggest problems with a can of anything is how long it sat on the shelf before you bought it..... I shake it a bazillion times, and the day before I use it, I turn it upside down to get any settled pigment on the bottom of the can to fall into the solution. When I open the can, I always check with a paint stick and make sure there is nothing on the bottom. That means that the stain is "in solution". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Applying the stain should be done from the bottom up to keep drips, etc. from rolling down on unstained wood and leaving coloration streaks. When doing "fast wipe" it's not that critical, but if you are applying a single dark stain like walnut to birch, it's critical. Here's the finished cabinets after the fast wipe. The hue is slightly darker than what they will look like when they dry. You need to take that into account when applying stain. In Carl's case, I prepared four samples on oak veneer strips and sent them to him for his and WAF approval. He selected the one he wanted, and Voila!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Very nice grain patterns on this veneer sheet. Some good figuring and contrast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Notice that as it dries, it get's slightly lighter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Next (today...) the Top Sekret Groomlake Formula!!! No secret; it's Watco mixed 70% Watco & 30% mineral spirits... or turpentine.... Since, however these are Carl's and I don't want to "experiment" with turps, min spirits it will be. Maybe next go around on my daughter's desk.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Final inspection before detailing and applying the oil. Notice the wood looks "dry", but the stain has "popped" the grain nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Detailed; as in cleaned up; final fresh coat of black on the motor boards and the rear panels; oiled and drying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 another view. drying nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Here's a view of what they will look like with a pair of grills. Carl has grills and he has the complete H-III driver kit from Klipsch, so they should sound very good. NOLA: That's about it from one point of view. Best of luck on your refurbishing. Hope the posts I made give you some assistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLSamuel Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Excellent work as usual. Thanks for posting a lot of pictures and explanation of the steps you're taking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Absolutely beautiful Marshall. I'll post some pics of the H3 drivers and then of the finished product once installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderbender Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Hey CECAA.....I'm headed up to Marshall's on wednesday .......Better hope he's got them shipped out by then or I may have to Jack them [6][6][6] Great job Marshall..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Hey CECAA.....I'm headed up to Marshall's on wednesday .......Better hope he's got them shipped out by then or I may have to Jack them Great job Marshall..... Hide em Groomie!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nola Posted November 23, 2008 Author Share Posted November 23, 2008 Well, OMG, what a series of posts !!! ;0) ) ) I have tried unsuccessfully to print this up for safekeeping. Is there a way to save the entire posting guide as one webpage save DL? Since I have been "living" at the hospital or been away much of the last couple of months, and am still way behind other issues, this may be my post Mardi Gras project. (You gotta have priorities) GL51, we are truly unworthy. .....big Bayou BOOYAH, and smile, ......fade to camera left....., ...pan camera.....the levees are still holding, my feet are dry, life is good....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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