Help,I May Need A New Crossover and Cabinet Reglue For A Heresy II, 1986

[Groomlakearea51]

Since we are going to do the rear panels by hand (it can be done quite satisfactorily, and you do not need to spray the rears), here’s what you will need: lacquer primer, thinner, tape, glove and a short nap roller. Not shown is the metal paint pan.....

[Groomlakearea51]

You can also spray lacquer.... Unfortunately... in order to do it you will need a compressor, a finishing gun, proper nozzle (DeVilbiss fine spray, 1.2 mm max), respirator, gloves, etc. This gun is a HVLP (high volume, low pressure) which operates at about 45 PSI. The compressor is set at 50-60, and there is another pressure regulator which screws on the bottom of the gun (not shown). Notice metal cup. You must use metal cups for lacquer. In this case, I will spray the motor boards and add some flatting agent to the lacquer to make them a satin, almost flat appearance which contrasts nicely with semi-gloss finish.

The good part is that spraying usually comes out perfect.... Bad thing is that all of the equipment (to do it right) can set you back over $1000 by the time it’s over.

[Groomlakearea51]

Oops, almost forgot... when spraying, unless you want to also be lacquered... wear a disposable suit. They are only about $15 and you can get several sessions out one of them.

[Groomlakearea51]

Here’s the H-I motor boards sprayed with the "flattened" laquer. I used the gun to show the results when laquer is sprayed. Perfectly even, and absolutely no brush marks, etc. It can be done with a spray paint can of lacquer if you are really good at using spray paint..... Don’t laugh, if you know what you are doing, spray cans for small jobs are a quick and effective alternative.

[Groomlakearea51]

And Carl’s H-II’s. You do not have to spray them, you can hand roll them with a 90% lacquer, 5% thinner and 5% retarder. The retarder slows down the drying process and will keep any rolling marks/ brushing marks to a minimum. Lacquer retarder is sold at paint stores.

[Groomlakearea51]

Here’s the "rolled" by hand rear panels. Rolling them by hand also brings out the grain a bit better. This is the first coat, and I will "detail" the insets, etc. by hand and apply a very thin second coat.

[Groomlakearea51]

Carl’s finished and waiting for the veneer to arrive (Thursday!!!)

[Groomlakearea51]

Now for the H-I’s. I now make sure the panels are "bookmatched" which means the grain patterns are similar and vertically aligned the same. These panels are for the tops and are the PSA backed.

[Groomlakearea51]

Here’s the reverse of the PSA along with the tools necessary to do it. Cutter to slice the backing to peel; scissors for excess overhang and to clip the corners once applied; big fat nylon paddle to push the veneer out as I peel the back; and my trusty veneer block. It’s a piece of 2x4 that has been sanded with 600 grit, with the edges on the face side rounded.

[Groomlakearea51]

I carefully slice the backing and peel it away about 3-4". I will then carefully lay it on the top of the cabinet, and push the red fat thing back and forth as I peel the backing away. I then use the wood block and with about 45-50 pounds of pressure (me leaning on it...), carefully flatten the veneer against the panel.

[Groomlakearea51]

Take the scissors and cut off the excess overhang. The remainder will be removed with an edgebanding trimmer. You can also use a router with a flush cut bit, but a good router and a flush cut bit will set you back $150+ even for a cheap set-up. Inexpensive method with scissors and the edgbanding trimmer is what I’m showing for the readers because of the cost involved.

[Groomlakearea51]

Here’s the trimmer. It costs about $10 and has removable (replaceable blades). Just position it flush and it will trim the excess off. Always use new blades for each speaker. If you use old blades you can tear the veneer.

[Groomlakearea51]

You can see here how it cuts the excess away.

[Groomlakearea51]

Trimmed and I now "ease" the edges. In this case, I use the block and using a downward angle of about 75 degrees (almost but not quite vertical) I "ease" the edge sloping towards the rear panel. This does two things; first it removes any strings, glue squeeze-out, and sands the edge. The second thing it does is that it makes the edge much less likely to catch on a fingernail, etc. when lifting the speaker.

[Groomlakearea51]

Here’s the top with the front and the side edges flushed against the side panels to mate up with the edgebanding & side panels, respectively.

[Groomlakearea51]

Now for the side panels. First, I lay them down with the veneer side up and tape them together with about 1/4" gap between each panel.

[Groomlakearea51]

Then I flip them and tape outside the panels with the backing completely exposed (no tape on the backing).

[Groomlakearea51]

I follow the instructions.... and rolled that contact cement on the veneer backs and on the cabinet sides. Gotta’ work fast with contact cement because it is ready to do it’s thing in about 10-15 minutes. In this case I used regular contact cement shown in the previous picture. It will work just fine if you are careful..... Once the stuff is properly "tacky", I simply "peel" up my panels and head to the cabinets.

[Groomlakearea51]

Positioning is critical, because once the stuff touches, it’s stuck.... In the photo, but hard to see are pencil marks on the veneer and the cabinets. I align the panels with those marks, and lay the sheet down in a "curve". This causes the center to contact first and then I carefully "roll" the rest of the sheet out. This prevents bubbles, etc. It’s not hard, but if you decide to use contact cement, you should practice the technique with the panels before applying the glue.

Once it’s down, I use my wood block and push it back and forth to make sure the veneer has a good contact.

[Groomlakearea51]

Here they are and ready for trimming, "blending" & "easing" the sides into the tops, and the edgebanding.