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HELP:Klipsch Belles cross-over wires replacement questions


dklowery

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Does anyone know if it sonically beneficial to replace all of the original internal cross-over wiring that connects all drivers, horns and woofers with the type of standard monster cable that comes with the Khorns?

My Khorns I purchase over 20 years ago cross-over network wiring harness is all monster cable throughout the speaker, so I am wondering if it is really worth doing the same monster cable wiring to the Belles that I just purchase.

I am new to the Belles and the wiring just seem wimpy compared to the huge monster cables that are on my Khorns.

Has anyone upgraded the Belles internal original cables to monster or just bigger cables and notice an improve performance that is worth the added effort or cost?

All experience technical input is welcomed.

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If the cooper on the wires are green (corrosion), I would replace them.

If the cooper on the wires are not green, I would check the connections at the crossover board for corrosion, and clean them if needed.

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I would not do that Monster Wire thing.

IMHO, when Klipsch (PWK being out of the picture) got in bed with Monster Wire, they were selling out to the marketing department. PWK had commented that there is no use using a few feet of large size wire to feed drivers which are made up of thirty or more feet of very thin wire in the voice coils.

I'm not quite sure where my mind was at the time. But when I was building the home made K-Horns I started wiring with either Monster Wire or something like it. Probably I was infected with the the thoughts that "maybe it is better, can't hurt, and doesn't cost too much." I want the best for my brain-child. Every hot-rodder has such conceptions.

The big wire was a pain in the neck to solder and/or make connections to the tabs or push-on connectors. The weight of the wire itself was a threat to the normal connection to the driver. I discarded the idea.

About ten years later I found the remnants of my "big wire" aspect of the project in a junk box. The big stranded wire in clear insulation was turning green.

I'll say it again, "You can't improve things by solving a problem which does not exist." PWK thought there was not a problem. And I'm saying the big wire can create a problem.

Wm McD

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I agree with SF and WFGM. Unless the original wire has "issues" (dried out and cracking insulation sheathing, solder on fork clips coming off, etc.) simply cleaning and reseating the connections will do wonders. Even when that situation exists, I just replace the wire with some 13 gauge Dayton Pro from partsexpress. I have a big spool, so it's an inexpensive "upgrade", does not weigh too much, and works fine.

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I have added A crossovers had Crites rediaphram my tweeters and ordered his cast frame woofers. Now the thought of leaving that crusty zip cord in the speakers drove me nuts. When I sent my tweeters and ordered woofers for a minimal extra fee crites soldered some hook up wire to them with spades on the other ends. The wire was the same as used in the crossovers. It isn't fancy but it looks nice. I doubt there is a difference in sound but at least I know it is all new.

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Silver wire? Not that I've ever heard of.

There was silver wire used in the Calutrons when copper was otherwise used in the War. But that went back to the U.S. Treasury. I doubt PWK ever got any. Smile.

There was some advertising saying that "silver solder is used on all critical high frequency connections" for the Forte and KGs ? Silver solder has very little silver IIRC. It was just a gimic. Regular old solder is used in the radio industry and that is far above audio freqs.

Wm McD

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