scriven

What is your budget?

---------------- On 8/6/2005 3:01:23 AM Anakin26 wrote: ... Will the subs amp amplify the signal even if you connect the sub via the rear speaker in/out terminals? ... I am asking this, becaus I am thinking about buying a second sub to add more punch to the surround channels. ... ---------------- Nick, Welcome to you too! The sub ALWAYS uses it's amp to drive it's speaker. If it is being driven with speakers outputs it runs the incoming signal through some circuitery to reduce it back down to a line level. I don't think it would do much good to put a sub on the rear channels. They don't put much (if any?) low frequency information in the rear channels. There is also a good chance that if your receiver/processor sees any back there it will route it to the LFE channel anyway. You could run a second sub by splitting the LFE line and driving both subs with that. ---------------- On 8/6/2005 6:35:06 AM travisc wrote: ... I am not familiar with your sub does it have speaker in and out or just line in and out, both? if it has speaker wire ins and outs, the sub will take any low frequency and amplify it, it will then send the rest to your speakers without amplifying. Say you set your crossover at 80hz, anything 80 and lower will go to to the subs amp, everything else will go to corresponding speaker. ... ---------------- The RW-10 has LFE, line and speaker inputs. If you feed it line or speaker inputs they will go through the low pass filter to the subs amp. The LFE input bypasses the filter. It will not send the rest to the speakers. It does not have speaker outputs, only inputs. Here is a copy of the owners manual.

First, welcome to the forum! Second, get a new salesman. That guy is all wet. There is no problem running the RW-10 off you receiver's speaker outputs. It is a powered sub. That means it has it's own amplifier built in. In other words, the receiver won't be driving the sub, the sub's amp will be. Seriously, I would not buy anything from this Bozo again and I certainly would not take any advice from him! Enjoy your new sub!

That point does not seal anything!!! That point is over the void between the tailboard and the corner. If there is any sound back there then you need to seal the tailboard!

Don, Dont take it personally. There is good cause to be search engine challenged on this site! The search engine on this site has some serious problems. Since I found your thread, after 3 or 4 tries, I figured I would save everyone else the trouble.

---------------- On 8/4/2005 11:40:46 AM bluesboy wrote: BS Check out Corner Horn Project. The last post was on 2/21/2005. Don ---------------- For the search engine challenged - http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=60576

You do not need to cut it to fit the speaker into the corner.

Maron, Now I am confused! My '72 "C" cabs do not have the point on the board that forms the top of the bass bin and bottom of the HF section. The top of the HF has the point.

Great recording! Vicious on low frequency drivers!

jbsl, FYI: When you post the url for a thread you don't need anything past the topicID=?????. So the one you posted would be http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=59975

Oh, just wait until you go fully horn loaded! (And, deep down in your heart, you know you will! Just look at those empty corners and think what could be)

Good idea Mike. For the lazy, it is here.

Wow!!! Those look awesome!!!

Congratulations! Glad to hear that your deal worked out OK. It sounds like you ended up getting the '91s. Good pick.

---------------- On 8/1/2005 9:41:25 PM sputnik wrote: ... Did you guys forget about Weird Al Yankovic - "FAT"? ... ---------------- That's a parody not a cover.

Tom, That was my point. I was hoping to show that an extra 100' of wire would not make enough of a phase shift to be audible. I can see why someone might think that the wire length to each speaker should be the same based on an intuitive desire for symmetry between the channels, but when you run the numbers that idea just falls apart. It ignores the extreme difference between the speed of electricity and the speed of sound. The upshot is, cut the cables to the proper length and then you don't have to worry about coiling up extra wire.

Stan, What did Duke and I agree to? Gary & Petrol, I'll color you both correct. That's how I do it.

---------------- On 8/1/2005 1:12:30 PM scotbuck wrote: ... I've never heard music through a K-Horn (and since I don't have the corners for them, perhaps that's a good thing ); ... ---------------- Scott, If you decide that it is a bad thing, it can be arranged!

Ditto what 3D said. Find some cds that are digitally mastered, denoted by DDD on the label and try them. Also, check to see if the ones you are hearing the hiss on are labeled AAD or ADD.

Gary, As Dee stated it was originally designed for Rockefeller's campaign. The story I heard is that he then took one home to use as a center. His wife thought it was too big (depth) so he designed the "Belle". Along with being prettier and shallower, naming it after her probably aided it's WAF in that case.

Anarchist, On this we are in full agreement! I had my epiphany about two and a half years ago following a Wisconsin road trip to pick them up. What you went through almost perfectly matches what happened here except I got mine into the corners quicker. The best way I have found to describe it is that my CornIIs have no problem filling the room with sound, but the Khorns envelop the room in sound! Congratulations and welcome to the land of the converts!

djk, Thank you, I knew that the electric signal traveled slower in wire than C but could not remember the rate. So the updated results using 0.5C are: The time lag for the signal reaching the far speaker: 0.0000002033 seconds The distance the sound traveled from the short run speaker during the delay: about 0.003 inches. The resulting phase shift: about 1.5 degrees.

Indy, Now that reason I can agree with!

Addressing the time aspect, the speed of light in a vacuum is 983571056 (and change) feet per second. Lets assume some really obscene things like one channel has 100 feet more wire in it than the other and the signal traveling through the wire is only going 3/4 the speed of light in a vacuum. That means that the signal for the longer length will arrive approximately 0.00000014 seconds later then the short run. The speed of sound is 1135 feet per second. So, the sound from the first speaker will have traveled about 0.0001589 feet or about 0.002 inches (rounded) when the second arrives. The wavelength of a 20kHz signal is 0.681 inches. So, the phase shift from the extra wire, at frequencies dogs and DrWho*, but not us older males, can hear is slightly more than 1 degree. (Sorry Doc, I couldn't resist!) I openly admit, I have not tested this empirically, it is all theoretical. But, I seriously doubt that the time shift of a longer speaker cable will be audible. Certainly not as audible as the fact that, in this example, one speaker is 100 ft away from the other! (Unless I have made some math errors along the way, which is entirely possible!) As far as the signal loss in the cable goes, use fatter wire! I do agree that you should not make nice neat looking coils of speaker wire because you are building an open air inductor but I think the solution to that is to cut the wires to the length it takes to get to the speaker. * At the pilgrimage the good Doctor was bragging that he could hear dog whistles. EDIT: Duke said it quicker because he didn't have to type as much!

That would be them! They say 3 things go when you get old, memory and I can't remember the other two! BTW: I still think they look great! I admire the people that can take poor orphaned speakers and bring a new and better life to them! On a good day I might be called a "wood butcher!"