seti

There are two 12" drivers and some internal ports.

Just checked the prices on russian tubes... KT90's are listed for $600 a quad... Will they actually sell close to that?

Don't think the 2000 is correct the calculation was by me and completely f'd up. I'll check em again next time I see them. Love the craftsman 500. Vintage amps run those tubes like scalded dogs. I'd rather have lower power and longer lived tubes.

True. I have a 845/211 stash from the same friend and haven't tested them. Never done a 211 amp. The KT66 test extremely well. I am very happy the chinese tubes keep getting better. I still need to nab a pair of 50CA10's.

A friend left a quad of original brittish kt66 gold lions with me. They are beautiful. I usualy say use em if ya got em but I just can't do it. Maybe if I had some old Quad II's to restore..

I've had great luck with PSVane. Beautiful work. Not sure why rectifiers are so hard. I just pay up for vntage when it comes to rectifiers. For instance the GZ34's never hold a candle to the original.

Where are PSVane tubes made? I have quite the stash of Russian tubes 8-)

OK so my first bid I was thinking I just can't let these go too cheap and after the second bid I was like oh crap I gotta have em.... lol.... Psychology of auctions is real... Gotta go back to Hope to pick these up... There were some great oporrtunities at this auction. Thanks to the museum and klipsch...

The 222D is about 20wpc. The EL84 is a super sweet tube. For push pull it is becoming one of my faves. I don't see a downside if you are running Klipsch...

That was an example senior. No comment for the person that listens at 110db? lol..... I am usually in the upper 80's with peaks into the 90's. However if a party is involved it does get a bit out of control... I've been thinking of building a mW amplifier to see how little I can get away with... Maybe use some ancient triodes...

AHH Very cool... It would be nice to have a good sample from the high efficiency crowd. My results showed 90-95db I need less than half a watt. When I was around 110db it was about 10 watts. That is of course in my room which isn't big. I love big horns nearfield listening. PWK had a great chart.

There is a similar thread at DIY audio with years of data already accumilated. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/a-test-how-much-voltage-power-do-your-speakers-need.204857/ After I did this test I started building flea amps of a couple watts.

Raw but I have a large stash of crotchwood mahogany.

I have the small one the 1502

It is funny because it is true. When I got the HLS installed I found every loose item in my house. The best thing that happened was I had a sputnik style light installed but some of the bulbs were out. When I cranked up the sub it vibrated all the filaments together and the bulbs came back on. Sadly if I want all the bulbs to light I gotta really crank the sub.. I could replace the bulbs but where is the fun in that. @Chief bonehead

True you can't go wrong with anything listed here. Having had scott, fisher, knight, and mcintosh for the money I'd ditch McIntosh for the Scott or Fisher. I slightly prefer the EL84 models. I'd like to restore one of the bigger Fishers someday like a SA300 or a K100. I have a stack of Fisher and Scott tuners I'd love to restore but I've never properly restored one. It looks like a huge PITA.

I dig the Fisher X-100 it is one of the best vintage I've owned. Once mine was restored it sounded amazing and very stable. Didn't hurt it was full of mullard tubes. I believe there were many different versions of the 100 and 500.

Ayinger is great stuff. Love it...

How about 12" drivers?

What is in the auction? Wallets want to know.

*burb*

I had the polystyrene and green metal can glass end seals tested and they were great. The date codes are from the 80's.

I've been using the russian polystyrene gold caps and the maybe oil green caps. The quality is amazing metal cans glass seals. Here is a guide to the numbers: K15-4 Ceramic HV "doorknobs" K15-5 Ceramic HV Disc K31 Silver Mica "kidney bean" style cap K40P-2B Paper in Oil, 5% tol. K40U-9V Paper In Oil , Silver body, 10% tol. K41-1A PIO, High Voltage "Pulse" caps K42U-2 PIO, green painted body (K75 are better) K50 Aluminum Electrrolytic K71-7V Polystyrol "High Tolerance" 1% or 2% tol. K71-4 Polystyrene K72P-6 Teflon Dielectric 5% tol. (see example below) K73-14 PETP High Voltage K73-15 PETP / Dry Mylar K73-16 PETP / Dry mylar K73P-4 "tub " style AC capacitors (may be paper or mylar, still TBD) K74 HV caps K75 Polyprop In Oil K75-10 PIO, Green body (these are the prime quality PIO) K75-15 PIO, High Voltage "tub" K75-17 PIO High Voltage "tub" K75-24 PIO Green body tubular (see example below) K75-28 PIO High Voltage "tub" BMT-2 Paper In Oil *** High Voltage Teflon Dielectric, Ceramic body (almost beer can size) FT-1 Teflon Military Grade glass sealed, aluminum body (smallest) FT-2 Teflon Military Grade glass sealed, aluminum body FT-3 Teflon Military Grade glass sealed, aluminum body (largest) KBG PIO (no, this isn't the KGB, they're a different entity altogether) Capacitors KBG-MN (КБГ-МН) are: - K (К) - aluminum foil; - B (Б) - paper insulation; - G (Г) - airtight - M (М) - metal casing - N (Н) - a normal rectangular Corps filled with oil. KBI HV "doorknob" RF / Transmitting cap KSO Silver-Mica "precision" caps MBG Paper-Aluminum "tub" AC caps

El Paso Tube Amp has a great channel. https://www.youtube.com/user/essoterric/videos

I am in the anti feedback camp but only because I don't like dealing with it in DIY. Nothing wrong with it unless you get culty.