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Question: If I have 5 TVs, do I need the sat. receiver box on each TV? You see in my setup right now using cable, I only use 2 boxes but the remaining 3 get's only the local channels (because the premium channels are not needed anyway). Possible? At least here in Canada, most sat dishes have 2 outputs for decoders, so if you need more than that you need to purchase more gear to split it out again (a $5 coax splitter don't work). However, I've seen deals in the paper for a dish and three decoders, so perhaps that has changed a bit. I have one plain decoder and one PVR decoder, but 3 TVs. Here's what I do to feed 3 TVs with 2 decoders: Living room has plain decoder with IR remote. It feeds S-Video into the living room TV and I use the coax output to feed the other two TVs on channel 3. The bedroom has an IR repeater and a spare remote so I can change channels on the living room decoder from the bedroom. The HT in the basement gets the PVR with S-video and digital audio outputs. I feed a second RCA video and stereo audio to an RF modulator and feed the coax output to channel 3 on the living TV (This is better than the PVR coax output because that is mono). The PVR remote is UHF and works from anywhere in the house. What you can do is get a few decoders and a multi-channel RF modulator. Then you can feed the few decoders' output to all secondary TVs using plain coax that is probably already in your house.

So far so good Indeed! Very nice!

---------------- On 1/19/2005 7:46:34 AM Trey Cannon wrote: as PWK would say ....a difference in jumpers and 2 in of wire is bull sh!t ---------------- Trey, Trey, Trey... You're not allowed to say that!

Then you have no problem!

well your biggest problem is mismatching the nomial impedence, look at it this way, if you send something with a 6 ohm signal out t the speaker through the positive terminal its gong to want a 6 ohm signal back, by sending out a 6 ohm signal through on 8 ohm speaker you are going to be etting 8 ohms back, what will happen is that your receiver will run a lot hotter depending on how loud you listen and over time if your receiver cannot handle an 8 ohm speaker it will eventually cook the receiver to death, now also a 100 w at 6 ohm is actually more powerful than 100 w at 8 ohm so you also run a very slight risk of blowing out the speakers but it is unlikely, the other thing to keep in mind is that the 100 w into 6 ohms is probably peak wattage not rms... furthermore your subwoofer has a built in plate amp therefore it is only going to use the signal you feed to it and use the internal amp to drive the subwofer No, that's not right. The amplifier rated for 6 ohms only means it will handle a 6 ohms load, which is harder than an 8 ohms load. It will also handle 8 ohms. Note that it will be less than 100W at 8 ohms, but that doesn't matter very much. Speakers rated at 8 ohms nominal actually vary quite a bit over the frequency spectrum, and they might have a few low points even below 4 ohms. That's why I also prefer an amplifier that can handle a 4 ohms load. It will sound better. Hope this clears it up a bit. The receiver has 200W on the sub channel? Does it have a line-level unamplified sub output? Because the KSW10 is a powered sub, so you won't be connecting it to amplified outputs.

I'm sick of the abuse of the "lock" on DVDs, where you can't fast-forward and have to sit watching something. I've seen the FBI/Interpol message; I don't need to be warned again. I don't care to see a notice, in 3 languages, that the movie publishers do not necessarily agree with the views expressed in the movie. You can't even skip over corporate logos! I don't want to sit through a 30 second animation every time I go into the DVD menu. There are some DVDs that my kids have seen over a dozen times that have a "proctected" intro over 1 minute long. Sit through that every time you put it on! Drives me nuts. The worst DVDs are some from Disney where you can't go to the DVD menu immediately and have to fast-forward through 5 minutes of previews of other films! Now that's abusing the system! It's only going to get worse... What I often do is go through it all to the real start of the movie and press the location memory button. Then the next time I pop in the DVD I press the memory button and go immediately to the start.

---------------- On 1/17/2005 9:55:32 PM DeanG wrote: If I were to ask an established, well credentialed astronomer a question about space -- and did not understand the answer or explanation -- I would ask for clarification, so I could understand. I don't think I would respond with ridicule or challenge. Banging on DJK isn't too bright. ---------------- Dean, I don't know DJK's credential's. I'm a physical scientist and while there are a few scientists that stand up at a conference and say things like "your work is so flawed it's funny. You don't know what you're doing!", I'm glad they are in the minority. When someone attacks people like that, he shouldn't expect polite responses. The most respected scientists act more like teachers than bullies, explaning the problem rather than ridiculing. What about Bob's reply that it's not much of a capacitor? That's all the reply I needed to see.

I noticed that there was no user review for the La Scala on www.epinions.com so I wrote one. It's at http://www.epinions.com/content_170129854084

Sorry for the HTML gone awry.

The variable crossover mentionned above is indeed a very important feature. It's important to get good bass management so look into that. I have an h/k avr-325 (got it last year cheap since it was the previous year's model) and its bass management allows you to select from 40, 60, 80, 100, 120 and 200 Hz crossover, differently for each of center, mains, surrounds and rears. I think/i> it also lets you do so globally and differently for each input. Some very expensive receivers won't give ou this kind of control. I always download the user's manual in PDF so I can see what features it really has. You learn a lot doing that. So... Here's one vote for h/k. For $464.00, I'd get the avr-335 at www.etronics.com (or elsewhere). If you don't need second-zone capability (I know I'll never use mine), then consider saving some cash and getting the avr-235 for around $345 (a bit less at ecost.com, I think). It has fewer digital inputs though. I've heard fantastic thing about the ultra-cheap Panasonic digital amps; you might want to look into them too.

Sounds like you should simply use them as they are. It's a great deal you're getting. BTW, using all-caps all the time is like SHOUTING at us. Please don't that.

Great post. A couple of years ago my Brother sent me a link to a fellow who I believe was a design audio engineer at McIntosh for many years. He went to the trouble of starting a web site to let everyone know about the "Snake Oil" many of the audio vendors are selling us all in the way of speker cables. What would be Roger Russell. See http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm.

Interesting support brackets for the rear speakers. What are they? And are they holding Heresy's? Sweet setup!

---------------- On 1/17/2005 12:02:40 AM Colin wrote: Of two dozen subwoofers rated in order of value, the top five subwoofers with the most 25Hz bang for the least bucks are: SVS 20-39 ($599), Dayton Titanic III 15" kit ($688), PSB Subsonic 5i ($449), used ill-fated Klipsch LF10 sub-woofer, with its 500-watt amplifier, one active and two passive 10” drivers, ($550), Velodyne CHT-15 ($599) and Atlantic Tech T70.1PBM ($425), with 82.2dB output (louder than a voice, but not really LOUD! ---------------- No Hsu in that list? Where is it from? The STF-3 is $599 and rocks. I could have purchased a Velodyne CHT-15 for less than my Hsu STF-3 when I bought 6 months ago, but decided to go with Hsu and have no regretted it. It's a great sub.

Speaking as someone who just bought a Heresy II for HT, I would not sell it. I'd buy more of them! The Heresy makes a good center speaker if you have room for it. I have it between La Scala's.

5.1 is much better for movies. The .1 really matters too; a sub is essential. But I don't really know that you need such expensive separates to get there. A much cheaper receiver would likely get you 90% there and you can better put the difference on those Cornwalls. I tend to put my money on speakers before amplification myself. There's more impact on sound, and you'll want to keep them longer than electronics too. My two cents. I know that others swear by separates, but with Heresy's?

I think your sub is deffective, unfortunately. With a working sub, I'd set the speakers as follows mains: large 80Hz center: small 80Hz surrounds: small 80Hz sub: LFE + R/L 80Hz That way, you get full range to your mains but low frequencies as well to the sub. If the mains are wiorking too hard, drop them down to small, maybe with the crossover at 60 Hz.

The Klipsch product web page says 8 ohms, but the back of my Heresy says 4 ohms. ?

I've never heard of Masi, but looking at the web page they seem to be a good local make for you (as Devinci is a good "local" make for me and you've likely never heard of them). I'd buy from such a company rather than from a bigger firm such as Trek, but it's hard to say why. Attention to detail maybe? More hand-crafted? I don't know. Anyway, the Devinci I'm getting seems to be between the Masi Vinsere and Gran Corsa (Aluminum at 18.8 lbs, but in Shimano 105 except for rear derailler in Ultegra). They seem like good bikes.

I'd be on cloud 9 for a free upgrade to a RSW-15!

you are right and you are wrong... about your wiring... good quality wiring ie transparent audio, mit cable, or kimber can make a huge difference if you have a system that can equate such a difference. meaning that if you spent 15 grand on a 2 ch system those cables will make a big difference over your 16 awg vampire wire. Please don't say someone is unambigously wrong because you buy into super expensive cables; he isn't clearly wrong because half the people agree with him. And there's no need to always compare with super cheap 16 AWG wire. I use 12 AWG that costs 25 cents a foot in a 100-foot spool. Doesn't need to be expensive to get beyond 16 AWG.

I ride for pleasure on occasion, but want to get back more into. I have a 10 year-old aluminium Devinci mountain bike that I use to ride with the kids, a 23 year-old Gardin race bike made with Columbus SL tubing, glued-on tubular tires but without index shifting. This spring, I'm buying a used 2002 aluminum (but carbon fork) Devinci Silverstone race bike from a friend: http://www.devinci.com/english/roadracingbikes2002.html This will bring me into the age of STI index shifting. My friend is upgrading to the Monza or Millenium; very sweet bikes. I find the aluminum bike just as comfortable riding as my smooth Columbus SL older bike, but it's (as I recall) a couple of pounds lighter (18.5 vs 20.5 lbs?) and has index shifting. Get a good bike because it will last forever (unless you really ride thousands of miles a year), but don't be affraid to buy used (a few years old) from a local rider or racer. Ask clubs if they know of any bikes in your size. Some people do have the upgrade bug every few years, and you can get the bike for less than half of what they paid for. The bike I'm getting retailed for C$2000 3 years ago and I'm paying less than half. BTW, I'm keeping all 3 bikes.

The Cornwall will also hold their value much better, so if you decide you don't like them you won't lose much money on them. I also think they are the better speaker.

Perhaps all pull-down dialogs should default to "All" rather than "Choose". The problem with "Choose" is that you have to select from a pull-down menu, which is non-trivial comparing to simply clicking. So default to "All" and let the visitor pull-down "floorstanding" if that yielded too many results. Great improvement!

---------------- On 1/11/2005 1:59:45 AM tigerwoodKhorns wrote: The rationale behind the theory is dilution of the trade name (a very valuable commodity). For example, the name very valuable mark "Xerox" is diluted as it has become a generic term for the act of copying a document. This is a valid concern and corporations will spend big money to protect their mark. Chris ---------------- I agree with the rest of your post, but not the above. Cornering the name in your market is a good thing, such as "to xerox = to photocopy", "to google = to search on the web", klennex. Those are all good for the owner of the mark.