TheEAR

Talk to Keith I will... Ok I dont own any cheapo speaker wire or interconects(cheapos are called patch cords by audiophiles ). I can tell you if you use a dollar store unshielded wires you get interferance.Its very audible unless one uses a Dollar store stereo. Now if you get a quality shielded Rat Shack or any inexpensive Ultra Link interconect and compare it to a "High-End" MIT,Kimber Select,Cardas Golden Cross or Monster M1000 then you need very revealing gear to hear anything "more". Most forum regulars here dont have the high-end to warrant the purchase of the exotic cables.And its true to say most expensive cables can be a total waste of money in most cases!I even say it loud and clear(less then 0.05 % THD). Where interconacts and speaker cables(and even power cords)will have an impact(and most of the time minute!) is on some(read on few)true High-End gear with very revealing speakers. Most High-End reviewers exagerate and say cable A is silky smooth and cable B was hasrsh as sanding paper! LOL This is in most part hype I have the Dynaudio Contour 3.3 and Spendor FL10 speakers and I can tell you I did hear small(read very very small)diference when changing interconects and even speaker cables!You have to use a high quality switcher to hear as the human memory to remember the sound is quite poor.And I know my speakers and gear very well,most would say WHAT? UH OH WHERE...DOH!? And some to not look bad would say "YEAH ITS BETTER" Then you ask them what is better? And they say "Oh the sound" LOL One thing is for sure,buy good shielded interconects like the Ultralink and some good quality speaker wire about $0.50/ft.You dont have to spend much more. Its simply funny when someone who owns Klipsch RF-7 speakers uses lampcord!Its like the owner of a new BMW M5 who would like to pour water in the gastank to save!? Go figure When you have the green for good amps,speakers dont use patchcords and lampwire,it looks clownish.Even if a "respected"(by who?clowns maybe)mag tells you they dont hear a thing. I have Monster Sigma,M2.2 and M2.4B speaker wire plus some more heavy speaker wire and I do not regret my purchase.I balance my system,even stands have to be high-end! I do not claim what some(most)High-End mags claim,I would need to spend 5-10 times more and then I would probably have the ultimate in High-End exotica,and maybe just maybe I would use phony words to describe the sound of a conector! LOL Not my style This is why I also have Klipsch speakers,good value,good sound quality. TheEAR(s) Now theears

I like Audiophile "cables" much better!They have to use High-End WBT conectors,octo shielded,quad insulated and have aligator skin covers!The cable must be at least 1.5-2 inches in diameter and come in a rare rainforest wooden case!Its a must the cables use 50positive and 50 negative balanced pure silver wires twisted with military precision to the exact "twist". Furthermore the cables must undergo a 5000 hours break in using ear tearing Top 40 hits,bad B movies to align the "atoms" in a precise way only audible to superaudiophiles like ME.And a real power amp must drive a 0.005 ohm load for 24hours before the cable gets the ISO 9001 aproval! TheEAR(s) Now theears

Some things to know about amps... Klipsch speakers since they are horn loaded will expose bright amps much more then no harn loaded ones. So the best choice in a matching amp would be a smooth sounding amp. The B&K amps are very smooth,great choice.Rotel power amps combine smoothness and great detail,as well as some good damping. Outlaw,ATI and Earthquake amps are better built but sound less smooth,still very good with Klipsch speakers.And have more damping,bass hits hard and is always defined. Acurus and Adcom amps are also very much like ATI and Outlaw,good built quality and match well.Good damping,in one word solid and not overpriced. Just stay away from amps like Denon,Sony,Pioneer, Technichs and other brand name.These may give detail but in no way can match the above in bass control(damping)and dont sound as relaxed,as efortless. I heard so many amps AT HOME,so I know.I own many power amps and amps do have an impact on sound quality. I dont care what some low-fi reviews may say,they need their ears cleaned. And if you want some top class power amps then I can recomend these few... Celeste (two or five channel,superb value) Bryston (the configuration that suits you) Krell (my reference and that of many audiophiles) Musical Fidelity (bargain,read bargain,very MUSICAL) BAT (two,three,four,five or six channels of glory) PassAleph(Pass Labs) (my second fave,transparency unmatched,not cheap) Spectral (fastest,most detailed amps in the world,not cheap) TheEAR(s) Now theears

Oogins I am glad you noticed the Sunfire and Carver subs. As some here know I have all the Sunfires and also the Knight Shadow sub. The prices here in canada should be around... Sunfire Signature $3200 Sunfire Mark II $2200 Sunfire Junior $1400 Carver Knight Shadow $1100 The Carver Knight Shadow is a super value,it has built quality few can match and this small cube delivers 25Hz bass that will hit hard. I am about to add a second Carver Knight Shadow!This should tell you its a damn good buy and the bass is clean and has ZERO boominess.The 10" super long throw driver is amazing,it delivers the goods. The Velodynes only get interesting from the HGS15 and up.Also I will get the HGS18 next! If you compare the Velodyne HGS10 with the Sunfire Mark II,the Sunfire has higher output and the bass is more tactile. Now the Velodyne HGS12 VS Sunfire Signature,again the Signature gets my vote over the HGS12.Its the only mini sub that beats the living out of the Paradigm PW2200.Only the Servo-15 can match this mini mite,and surpass it in the extreme low end. Then a Revel B15 outperforms a Vel HGS15 and Servo-15 with ease. Ah yes the Carver Knight Shadow...GO FOR IT. TheEAR(s) Now theears

This belongs near the end of my last post. Thank you "Now say you add a sub and this sub begins to distort,bottom out,sound compressed,limiters kick in,vent noises start to be audible ALL BEFORE 120dB,then the sub CANNOT KEEP UP." The thing here is to match the sub to the speakers. You dont use a RSW15 with Quintets And you dont use a KSW10 with KLF30's LOL Its like using fireworks as main thrusters to make a Saturn V take off!Or Saturn V first stage thrusters on a Mercury rocket. LOL Clear no TheEAR(s) Now theears

My definition of a "sub that keep up" LOL Say you have a pait of Klipsch RF-7's and a Bryston 11B or Krell FPB600 power amp.This combination can play at extreme levels with very little compression or breakup. Extreme is above 120dB...IN ROOM!Not measured at a 1 meter distance in front of the speaker(s).This is LOUD,its extreme for the human ear(s). Now say you add a sub and this sub begins to distort,bottom out,sound compressed,limiters kick in,vent noises start to be audible ALL BEFORE 120dB,then the sub CANNOT KEEP UP. Subs should be matched to speakers and rooms. A Sunfire Junior is plenty for ProAc Response 1SC or Dynaudio Contour 1.1's. It will not keep up with say a Wilson Grand SLAMM or K-Horns.As these speakers can generate EXTREME VOLUME LEVELS WITH EASE. So for large speakers you should use large and/or multiple subs.I have plenty of sub power to keep with ANY two tower speakers ever made for home use. When I pump up the volume to realistic and live levels the subs remain composed,dont lose definition,dont start to sound distorted and there is never a time when I can hear any amp clip ot driver aproach its limits. This is why I use multi KILOWATT amplification and multiple KILOWATT subs with super duty drivers. I hope this cleared this up TheEAR(s) Now theears

"Keep in mind that feeling bass down in the low twenties or lower requires a manly man of a subwoofer, and some assistance from the room." Well said Ray A real sub is capable of punch and low extention with power that will give you a tactile bass. The Velodyne HGS18 and 15 Revel B15 Aerial Acoustics SW12 Sunfire Mark II and Signature Paradigm Servo-15 SVS(most of the SVS line) HSU(TNT cylinder models) and probably the RSW15 Can give you a tactile presence,real sub bass. And a "manly man" sub must hit 16Hz with power!With power means at least 110dB! And over 120dB @ 25-30Hz! TheEAR(s) Now theears

If you have speakers like the Klipsch RF-5 or even better the RF-7's then the KSW15 is NOT an option. I have a KSW12 and 15 and these(the two)are used with one computer alongside my SB-3's and SB-2's(rear). The bass has plenty of power and punch. Now the RF-7's are in another league,the BIG leagues. These monsters can play at helacious levels and with total ease.Even my "small" RF-5's will give drum tearing volume levels.The RF-7's should be cut around 40-50Hz and a REAL sub should take over. When I say real this means a sub with solid output to 20Hz and a sub that can keep up with the RF-7's at almost any volume!This is not a small feat. The RSW looks(I have yet to take them home and make a full test) to have what it takes to keep up with the large Klipsch speakers. I always buy a sub that can more then keep up. For example I may use a Aerial SW12 with the Dynaudio Contour 1.8 Revel B15 and Aerial SW12 with the Dynaudio Contour 3.3's .Just to be sure the subs dont start touching the limits. All in all my subs more then keep up with my speakers,I did tests and its A ok. So for the RF-7's the only subs that can keep up are... Revel B15(one should do) Sunfire Signature(yes it can when cut at 60Hz and lower) Velodyne HGS18(one will do!) and maybe the HGS15(two may be needed!) two Aerial Acoustics SW12(just for efortless output) two Sunfire Mark II(two tiny cubes will rock the room ) And I think the RSW15 should keep up very well(even ONE RSW15!) two Paradigm Servo-15(yes two) I cant wait to try the RSW15 at home TheEAR(s) Now theears

I would not put any sub that uses an active and passive driver(radiator)in any niche.Unless cut very low and the niche being very rigid(I mean built like the Norad command center)you dont want added vibrations(colorations). And the Klipsch RSW subs have the active driver on the back!This means the niche would have to absorb the constant hammer drops.I know most furniture with niches are build from cheap particle board and add colorations big time. Furthermore the RSW subs need room to really open up,alongside a wall should again prove the best solution.All my current subs are out of corners and along ONE wall. If you would have a sealed design like a Velodyne HGS then you can place the sub in a niche.The sole active driver facing out. TheEAR(s) Now theears

"Hey Ear, dont you get some major standing waves???" LOL NO My subs are all along side ONE wall,the wall looks like a sub wall! And I do not get any cancelation,its a matter of setup and knowing what helps and what ruins the sound. All I can tell you is the bass is prodigious,any movie with true deep bass will take you there.And some music with true bass like organ recordings are simply REALISTIC.This power cannot be put into words,its THERE. The bass does not boom,or ruin the rest of the sound.The subs are cut around 50Hz in my main HT system.The Dynes do the rest. And I belive in quality power amps,recievers are not the way to go in a large super system.Even great multichanel amps are eclipsed by great monoblock amps. To me a great sound system should reproduce with total easy anything from 16Hz to 18Khz with no audible compression up to 120dB.Its not easy and multple subs must often be used. TheEAR(s) Now theears

Myram the Quintets are cut to prevent bass from damaging the mid-bass unit at high volumes.I too have the Quintets and a KSW12 and when I was using them in my computer sound system I had the sub cut around 100Hz.May be high but blends better with the Quintets. I used Celeste power amps and a Celeste integrated!It was pure overkill as the Celsete amps cost over ten times the price the quintets cost! LOL Still the sound was surprising,the Quintets are not harsh at all.Most Klipsch speakers are NOT harsh,just bad amps make them sound that way. TheEAR(s) Now theears

Sesquim sorry TheEAR(s) main sound room is my shrine,only a few audiophiles got the chance to see my audiophile craze.I never posted any pics of my sound system.Right now it looks more like some store sound room.Most would even say I took the pics at some High-End store! LOL Its nothing pretty,the room is packed with gear like an egg! And about the complaints,yes I had several.I just have a bottle of good wine here and there and no complaints since.Bribing does help a bit Seb you want to be defeat TheEAR(s),I welcome the challenge. Know this I also have the KSW12 and 15 plus my Velodyne HGS18 should arrive in about two weeks! He he I am also looking at M&K MX700 subs,not a "sub sub" just awesome punch.Its like a mid-sub,huge punch to help the subwoofer subs. When I am finished(will I ever stop?)my system should hit over 130dB at 20Hz in room!And stay above 118 at 16Hz!Not a maximum peak here! WHO BETTER THEN THE EAR(S)? WHO BETTER? TheEAR(s) Now theears

JimG remember dont EVER and I mean EVER push TheEAR(s) I have...yes again Revel B15 AerialAcoustics SW12 Sunfire Signature Sunfire Mark II Sunfire Junior Carver Knight Shadow(will add a second unit) All can work as one supersub Plus I am going to get the RSW12 and 15(if they measure up) and a Velodyne HGS18!I hear the SVS Ultra only ONE time and I was very impressed,and HornEd has nothing but praise for the Ultras. WHO BETTER THEN THEEARS? WHO BETTER? To me a good sound system has quality and POWER,power to crack plaster.I am an audiophile and a BASS freak. TheEAR(s) Now theears

I would very much like to hear about your Top Ten subs, orthj. Here is my Top Ten subs(price not taken into consideration)no wait make that a Top Eleven! Krell Master Reference(quality none can match,also the most powerful sub in the world,plain and simple.Beware when you see the price tag you will find all others in the list inexpensive and El Cheapo!The built quality is beyond description,the amps could drive anything and the twin drivers are the baddest SOB's in the speaker world.Oh yes the price...an owner told me he paid $35000(for ONE sub!)The sub weighs over 400lbs) REL Stentor II and Studio II(The Studio uses two Volt drivers and the Stentor one.Both provide some of the most clean and articulated bass on earth.Quality is in the best of class category,on par with the Aerial!Not cheap but worth for the ones with plenty of green) Aerial Acoustics SW12(sound and built quality second to none,single super heavy duty 12 incher,400W RMS amp) Revel B15(huge output and sound quality,super long throw 15 inch custom Revel driver with a 1KW RMS amp) Velodyne HGS18 and 15(kings of low below 3 grand,great output and low distortion tahk to the servo,1250W RMS amps power custom heavy duty drivers) Paradigm Servo-15(great inexpensive servo sub,400W RMS amp with 15 inch custom Paradigm driver.SUPER VALUE!) Sunfire Signature(king of the microsubs,HUGE output and down low!Two super heavy duty drivers passive / active with a Carver powerful amp) Infinity Prelude MTS subs(tight,musical and powerful.The RABOS bass system works,a real bargain) Revel Ultima SUB-15 with LE-1 amp(fast,tight and power to knock your dentition out.Not cheap but you can get ONE amp and conect TWO subs!Double trouble) SVS Ultra with good power amp(when used with a large Bryston you get awesome power and finesse few can match.Goes low and hits hard if needed.Good value) Whise Profunder 624(Like with the SVS Ultra you will need a good external amp.Definition beyond all the above!You read right,and power so vast you can shake down the house,limited to about 25Hz.Not cheap) And a honorable few after... Dynaudio Contour sub Paradigm PW2200(bargain) HSU TN1225HO with Bryston 4B power amp SVS(all cylinder units sound good and cost little)I say get the ones with no amp and get your own....Bryston Sunfire Mark II(tiny Godzilla,may be small but will knock you out.Real deep bass from a 11" cube!) Infinity Intermezzo sub(should be listed with the Infinity Prelude MTS subs,same quality in another package) REL Q200E(looks like the Sunfire MarkII,less output and more defined bass) M&K 5000(push pull design,400W RMS and twin 12 inchers,deep and tight bass) M&K MX700(tiny push pull sub,twin 8 inch drivers give a very defined and tight bass.Good down to a solid 30Hz,even maybe 25 if placed close to a wall) Monitor Audio 212(twin 12 inchers with a 360W RMS amp,very tight and musical.Plenty of power too.A very much like the M&K 5000,fast bass you bet) This completes my list,I have to listen to the new Wilson sub and the new Klipsch RSW subs. TheEAR(s) Now theears

"I always thought that high quality subwoofers had stuffing inside..." Yes ported subs should have damping materials inside to minimise the unwanted port boominess(coloration). I have the KSW12 and 15 and I did not investigate on the inside.The sound after a good break in and when cut no higher then 80Hz should not be too boomy. You can remove the driver and put some stuffing if you want.Just dont put fiber glass stuffing,this is on the not to do list.Fiberglass fibers break and you can breathe some when the sub works at very high volumes(ported design). As all good quality subs use stuffing,NO its not a rule.Velodyne HGS and Sunfire subs use NO stuffing at all and perform damn well,no boominess from my Sunfires.The thing is they are all sealed and the cabinets are so rigid the can be no audible boominess. TheEAR(s) Now theears

I had the same problem with the ProMedia 2.1 I had. The amp panel on the sub that acts as the heatsink was boiling hot after about 10 minutes of work(even in standby!). I e-mailed Klipsch and they told me to return the unit,next day I was at the store and they changed the unit.So e-mail Klipsch first. Unless you have no heating in the room and/or want to use the amp panel as a foot boiler! LOL Klipsch BASH amps in proper working order do NOT become boiling.I also have a Klipsck KSW15 sun and it also uses the BASH amp and is only warm after a few hours of blasting!BASH amps run cool and dont require massive heatsinks. TheEAR(s) Now theears

The best ways to "remove" harshness is to try tube amplification or tube preamps. The KLF30's are in no way harsh,some solid state makes them sound harsh. The RF-3's are a bit harsh,if one cant change the amp or preamp then cables are the only way to soften up the sound.No miracles here,so spending too much should be avoided. In my main music only system I have an Audio Research tube preamp and NO speakers ever sounded agressive. And I tried from Klipsch,Thiel to Dynaudio.Each speaker makes has it goals and priorities and still no speaker sounded harsh. Often harshness comes from the preamp and/or amp.Even El Cheapo CD players are not HARSH,they may lack definition,detail but harsh?! I have yet to hear one as bad. The greatest upgrade or cure could veryb well be a tube preamp.Did magic for me. TheEAR(s) Now theears

Its true most of todays VCR's are built so well they could float on water!Some could even float with a help of one baloon! I remember the first Hitachi VCR we had,it was over $1000 CAN,heavy and lasted almost 9 years!The unit still workd but would need heavy cleaning and some parts are quite worn out. After I purchased the Mitsubishi U56 VHS HiFi and U67 SVHS machines.Quality was great(all are still working like new!). This year I set out to buy another SVHS VCR to make transfers(from U67).Most were so cheap,so light they almost screamed WE ARE CHEAP,WE ARE LIGHT and WE WILL BREAK AFTER THE WARRANTY. So I decided to get the JVC 9800U,the only non pro SVHS with a bit of quality feeling.Still not up to the Mistubishi VCR's in terms of built. Sometimes I wish Krell or Jeff Rowland start making VCR's. Ah forget it they would require a crane to move and need 20AMP outlets! LOL TheEAR(s) Now theears

Some may be new and others may have been used only a few days before the owner(s) decided the Quintets are NOT KLF30's or RF-7's. LOL I heard some complain the Quintets dont have the BIG output Klipsch claims.The Quintets have a huge output for their size!And cannot compete with large Klipsch speakers. The Quintets have to be cut around 80Hz,then the mid-bass driver does not work too hard and the overall sound is quite good.And I found the KSW12 to be a great match,I did not like the KSW10(not as defined and lacking the punch I have from the KSW12). So I would only get Quintets if I could also get a KSW12 for a few bucks more and cut the Quintets at 80Hz. I have a set of Quintets I used with my PC,sound very good.Needs proper matching sub and placement. Just dont expect KLF,K-Horn or RF-7 detail or output. TheEAR(s) Now theears

ColaBear speaker "break in" does improve sound.The sourrounds and the spider(centers VC)loosen up to adegree(more or less depending on design and materials). After break in the overall sound is more smooth,true some claim gross gains. The truth is like you said ears do adjust to the speakers.This may cause "the break in" effect too. Now we should talk about "ears break in". TheEAR(s) Now theears

Boa12,about the Carver TFM-75,this monster mini-mite is rated at 750W RMS 8 ohms/channel full bandwith! Each channel has its own power cord!And each channel can take the full 15AMPS at full power! This amp is a fraction of the Krell FPB600,the FPB600 is rated at "ONLY" 600W RMS into 8 ohms/channel full bandwith.When you go down to 2 ohms(some Thiels may begin to get close)you get a GODZILLA like 2400W RMS per channel and full bandwith! The downside is I had to pay an electrician to install a second heavy duty breaker box and pass 20AMP and up cables!These amps are thirsty for AMPS. LOL The Carver TFM-75 "only" gives 1000W RMS at 4 ohms! This is per channel,full bandwith again. I cant wait to break in the RF-7's and step on the volume. TheEAR(s) Now theears

JTS8 I did read many posts here before posting(reposting I would say)and I can see and hear HornEd's system here.LOL Its nice to have a HUGE room and the space to fit all KLF30's.I would like to have so much space. Its unfortunate I only have a 10 x 14 room!And even now its as full as an egg.I just made some space for the upcoming RF-7's! TheEAR(s) Now theears

Ok the last rant was a bit harsh,next time I will use the integrated MODERATION button to tone down my posts. TheEAR(s) Now theears

Wait,if you want to spend less then the 3801(disco now) will cost just a few dollars and you can then get a KSW15 or even a RSW10. A 15'-15' room needs at least a KSW15 sub. And the 2802 could be an option if you plan to buy a power amp one day. TheEAR(s) Now theears

Forgot the Misical Fidelity A3! This small integrated amp is a small wonder.Sound quality is unmatched by ANY integrated amp in this price range.An absolute bargain if you consider the match you will get with any of the Klipsch RF speakers. A must audition,and it sings with horn loaded speakers. Ah And then there is the Nu Vista...audio nirvana TheEAR(s) Now theears