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Slug Bug in Indiana/Michigan growing up. Now that I am more of an east-coaster I here it referred to most often as Punch Buggy. Sort of like pop vs. soda. Deep down we all know it is really "Slug Bug" and "Pop". I find I am now bilingual. My mind thinks pop, but I say soda to my coworkers. I hear soda but I think pop. BTW, "one eyed bandit" was a car with one headlight and yes there was he!! to pay if it was a motorcycle.

Look to the Big 10 schools! University of Michigan and Purdue. The winters suck in Michigan, but if he is a skier then there is snow. I might be a bit biased being a UofM grad, but it not a coincidence Michigan is one of the most expensive public schools, difficult to get into and often referred to as the "Harvard of public schools".

Dougdrake, Once you get em play with them a bit. In a previous incarnation of my HT I had Chorus, Forte II and 3 Academies to work with. What I found worked best was: Chorus/Forte/Chorus up front with Academy/Forte/Academy in the rear. Obviously that was a 6.1 set up. Not sure if youre new plans call for 5, 6 or 7.1. As good as the Academy is for a center I really liked the Forte between the Chori. The two academies as surrounds were very, very nice. I did not find that the rear radiator on the Forte II was that big of a deal at center. I had it about 6 inches off of my front wall just below the frame of my screen. I know what you mean about tight space with the Forte below the screen. Dont forget you might get an extra couple of inches by taking the riser off the Fortebut I am sure you knew that. Good luck and nice score on the auction. If it does not work out you should surely be able to get your money back out of them.

How about more RB5s on stands at ear level to the side of you listening position used as L/R surround with the back wall speakers used for surround backs? Move the speakers/stands out for movies and critical multi-channel viewing/listening. Disconnect and put in a closed or other location when you are doing more casual "TV" watching. Yes it is a bit of work...but the sound is what counts, right? I am assuming this room is more of an all day every day room...rather then a dedicated HT.

---------------- On 8/5/2005 2:34:33 PM dragonfyr wrote: What the heck is a "first pressing"? Are you referring to the intial release of a title? ---------------- I am not making this sort of term up see for yourself Or maybe you like the term original pressing more fiction for dragonfyr Perhaps this will help clear up my question. If an LP was "made" first in the 50s; then again in the 60s; released again in the 80s on a different label; put out as a boxed set for x-mas in 1992; then finally put out on a 200g re-released today is there any way short of buying them all and listening to know what to buy if you only care about the quality of the music and not the value to collectors.

---------------- Hey Homer , I'll trade you a Belle for a K Horn ... Dooooohh ---------------- Khorns actually seem easier to find then Belles...in my neck of the woods anyway. You make the drive and I will trade ya. I think I can find khorns that fit my needs (finish/condition/budget) easier then Belles.

With so many version of some albums out there how do you know which one to buy? Please excuse my ignorance as I am new to the idea of 100 dollar or more LPs. 10 bucks for an LP was a lot back in the day. My MFSL collection is growing a bit when I score them in the 20-50 dollar rangeeven that seems count-intuitive to me at some levelbut they do sound good. How do you tell a first pressing versus later pressings? Is it simply by the year on the cover or is there some secret method I dont know about? Are they for the most part demanding higher dollars simply because they are first pressing much like a first edition book? If you dont care about the collectors value, or the cover condition for that matter what is a good rule of thumb to get the best sounding LP? Take big selling records like Getz and Gilberto or Dave Brubeck Time Out. Do I spend my time and effort tracking down first pressings, early pressing, and late pressings, mono/stereo or just buy the 180-200g reissue brand new and still sealed up for 20-30 bucks and be doen with it? Perhaps it is different with each title and I am now on the verge of spiraling into a deep dark chasm of searching for the holy grail of LPs that dont exist. Should I forge on or jump back to the safety of CDs? So far my efforts are hit and miss on ebay. Some gems some turds. Lots of looking and lots of missed auctions by just pennies even with sniping software. My thrift store excursions, while limited, have proved even less fruitful.

I saw those earlier in the week (agon not in person). The look nice. What I really want is a T-Shirt from that store. Did you catch the info on their site? They provided all the gear for the movie High Fidelity. Great movie!

Nice looking paint on the walls, SBW. Nice picture on the TV as well. Give me one of those belles for my place.

Being a new Helen Merrill fan I ran across this collection on ebay. Seller says it is mint. Has anyone heard this? It was put out in 1985. Her original stuff is bringing top dollar right now. I have her 1954 LP as an 80s reissue and am quite happy with its sound. Cant remember the label right nowtrip maybe. So is this a good way to get some of her work in one package or should I hunt around for individual LPs? Can anyone give me a ball park price as to what is a good deal and what is a fair deal?

Things seem a little tense, boring and generally uninteresting around here lately. Must be the summer time blues. Hopefully I can spread a smile and chuckle for a brief minute in you life. Check out the musical link below. It combines two of my favorite things The Ramones and The Simpsons. For any of you that caught my humming .wav file a week or so ago in 2 channel I guarantee this sounds better. Be sure and listen to the very end of the songthis is where the real laughs are to be had. Ramones Sing to Mr. Burns

---------------- On 8/4/2005 12:37:26 PM Colin wrote: In your profile, please specify your system: amps, subs, room size, most tastes, preferred volume level, etc. This will give thoughtful posters more of the right information they need to make insightful suggestions. ---------------- Nicely put Colin, I looked before my fist post to see if I could get a feel for what he had and while it did not really provide any info I did get a good laugh...so that was worth something. my collection: crap, powered by garbage, taking signals from something better used as a paperweight

O, thanks for the wake up call...I don't know what I was thinking. Let me rephrase. My Carver stuff is the end-all-be-all. There is nothing better out there. The rest of you must bow in my sonic temple of greatness. What is with this place lately? Seems more like the Jerry Springer show then the helpful place that got all my HT needs worked out and found me the khorns (Thanks Frzn). Guess it must be the heat. Another 100 + day near the nations capitol how is it out there in sunny Cali?

To each his own. Buy what sounds good to you. However, I will put my Carver TFM-25s up against any other solid state amp. Bring yours over and we will compare. I have used them with KG4, Forte II (many, many years), Chorus and currently Khorns. They are clear, crisp but still manage to have a warm quality. Lots of power with headroom to spare. Detailed at low volume and ear splitting loud if you want it that way. There are just so many variables, one of the biggest being the room, that it is hard to make a generalization like Carver product "xyz" is great or Carver "abc" is bad. Even worse is the generalization that all of brand X is good or bad. Priapus, if they are in driving distance see if you can take your speakers and hook them up to do a test drive. Take along the type of music you like and go from there. Good Luck.

When I was there a group of locals suggested I go to Sadies ( http://www.sadiessalsa.com/ ) to eat. Great food, fantastic service. Nothing too fantsy if you are looking for a coat and tie place this is not it. Had to wait about 1.5 hours to get a table on a week day night...well worth it.

I am sorry that I cannot comment on that particular amp. But I have used Carver/Sunfire separates for years and could not be happier. The build quality is top notch and I have yet to hear better sounding solid state gear (IMHO). It is probably out there, I have just not run across it. Bob Carver is said to have a soft spot in his heart for tubes and strives to make his SS gear have a warmer tube sound. Good luck, report back and let us know what you think.

I paid 750 for my C-1s and thought that was a great deal. I agree somebody shoudl be all over these at 700. I actually like the C1 over the C2. I have heard others say that a c1 is like a tall cornwall in sound. They rock well but can still sound a bit more refined (to me anyway) then a Forte. I have used mine for music and mains for HT. They excelled in both duties. If you don't need to dump them right away sit on them till fall/winter and I bet you can get 800 or more on ebay. Good Luck

I am constantly amazed how forum members in general, not necessarily entomologist2004, wring their hands over price of an academy. If you take a step back and add up you speakers, electronics and software most of us probably have 10K invested at the low end and I would take a wild guess that most have 25K or more. 1000 here, 200 there, another 100 over there and it quickly adds up. Then you get to the most important speaker (my opinion) in a HT set up and spend years looking for a 300 dollar academy versus a 600 dollar one. Since 1994 I have never, not owned an Academy. At one time I owned four. From my point of view if you have CII, FII or Quartet mains you simply must have an academy as a center. Unless of course you can fit another version of what your mains are. Take a lunch to work, eat some mac-and-cheese for dinner, cheat on your taxes (dont skimp on the beer get Sierra Nevada or some other scrumptious brand) do whatever you have to do but get that Academy sooner not later. Life is too short; your ears will thank you. There I got that off my chest. I too feel better. Best of luck to all of you on your Academy quests. Just buy one and be done with it. The frustration of looking for a year only to get outbid is not worth the potential savings.

I believe that is an older version of the projector I own. I have the 700 and demoed the 500 just prior to the 700's release. Both the 500 and the 700 are great in my opion. Not having seen the 300 I really can't comment, but think if the bulb life is on the low end that for 500 bucks (or less) and if it is local to you it is a decent deal...not a steal, but decent. The 700's MSRP was around 3K when if first came out and I paid either 2,100 or 2,400 from a dealer. Do you have a screen yet? If not check out Carada before you make a decision. Good Luck...Once you have a projector I don't think you will go back.

If they are WO Belles then you don't want to use them. I will gladly take them off of your hands and put them to good use in my HT.

I got the install instructions too at the end it says: Never mix incandescent and LED lamps in a series circuit. Electrical Specifications: 8VDC 20mA Does the 8VDC and 20mA help in determining the values I would need for the LEDs. Perhaps, this is not as simple as I envisioned. I thought I was just soldering an LED in place of an incandescent lamp and all I needed to know was what LED to use. If this guy has actually bundled together "some components" to replace the lights and not simply bought LEDs for pennies and sold them for 10s of dollars then I would gladly buy from him. Like I originally said I don't know much about electronics. I can hook up a surround system with the best of them. I even wired my entire basement from the breaker box to the outlets. I own and maintain two electro-mechanical (old style) pinball machines. However, when it comes to volts, amps, resistors, capacitors, transistors and the like I am in the dark. Do you more savvy electro-nerds think this is a simple replace a light bulb with an LED or is it more elaborate and I should cough up the 80 bucks? I surely dont want to mess up the power in my amps by being a tightwad over a few dollars. On the other hand if I am going to tear it open and solder in new lamps from Carver that will burn out again why not go the LED route.

Thanks to both of you for the quick response. Instructions are not the issue. That is covered in the manual. All I really need is the correct type of LED...assuming there are different types of LEDs. I guess that is my real question. Not know much about electrical stuff I don't know if one LED is the same as the next or not. If they are different how does one go about finding the correct LED to replace a standard filament bulb. I have opened my amp up and can see that is a standard filament bulb.

I have 4 carver TFM-25 amps. They are prone to burned out bulbs for the meters. A guy on ebay sells replacements in the form of LEDs rather then bulbs. He has them in both blue and original white. I would like to get some form my amps, but 20 bucks for 2 LEDs seems high to me. I would need 4 pair so it would cost 80 bucks, ouch. I know very little about electronics, but figure if somebody pointed me in the right direction I could probably get the right parts. What do I need to know? Any sort of restriction on size, load, and wattage if there is any on LEDs. Is there anything I can look up about the amp that would help you help me? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5793007654

From about 100 yards away...not up close.

How did you get the pix? Did you use a panoramic lense or take seperate pix and stitch them together?