jwc

You are probably right. Again, I got so many angles on how to do the project from this forum, I got a little frustrated. I finally just got some advice from local paint dealers. Now that the project is done, I think they look good. They are back in there corners waitin' for my crossovers to get back. I will update with a pic then. Is there any advantage to latex paint. Why did my locals recommend it? Is latex paint more durable? I noticed the paint job on my factory La Scalas is easy to scratch. The latex on my corns is like concrete. jc

hey Rob, How did you get that varnish on there and what kind did you use? I have considered putting on some polyurethane to give even more shine. jc

I have read many post on this forum back to several years. There was a whole bunch of ways described to paint speakers. I have learned a couple of things. 1. Spray gun is probably better than brushing or rolling 2. Local paint stores are marginally helpful. None seem to agree on anything. 3. Latex paint is hard to sand. However, I must say the finished product looks good. This Black pair of Corwalls definately look beter than my factory black laquer La Scalas. I agree with previous posts in saying that klipsch probably puts on very little paint. I don't regret not buying a spray paint gun. I figured out using a dense foam roller followed by a very soft foam brush does a good job. I could also do the job in my house. I didn't really need to sand. Trying to do this just set me back. The finish is slightly glossy and shows some of the wood grain. To see any "imperfections", you would have to get up close and the light would have to be right. This is the same for my Factory La Scalas. Thanks for the input. jc

Thanks for the replies. jc

It is an acrylic latex gloss. The look is fabulous but I want a little smoother finish. That sub cabinet looks nice. What eas the last step when doing your cabinet? Was it sanding? Did you use a finish? When wiping off the paint, did you use notebook paper and keep it flat as you wiped? jc

Did you put the strips over the screw holes and just screw through em. Or did you put the strip at the outer ot inner most edge?

I just put primer and paint on my CW1's. After the second coat of paint, I have considered lightly sanding them to get a better shine and a "better evenly distributed" paint surface. They are gloss black and look great right now. My wife thinks I'm done. I could live with it. definately a good gloss and rich black. Much like my Black laquer La Scalas. However, I can look at a certain angle with bright light and see slight imperfections in how the paint was applied. Now do your best to not blast me here. My wife hates the stained veneer "look" and likes the Black. I also didn't spray paint these but used a foam roller. I have read past threads that describe sanding the paint. Any sugestions on doing this? Do I have to apply more paint after each sand job? What grit should I use? Is the sanding the last step? Should I end with some sort of finish such as aa wax and then sand again? jc

I was crankin my Corn's last weekend for a party and my brother in law noted there was "air" blowing on him when He stood behind one of my Corns. He was right. The top right corner was puttin out air when the bass would hit. I didn't think much of it since I new I was about to overhaul these babes. Anyway, at the end of the party, I noticed that speaker had some disortion from the woofer. Now, It was still cranked and I turned it down just a smidget and it didn't do it any more. It then played fine w/o distortion. By distortion, I mean the "flap" like noise from a woofer when someone turns your stereo too loud. Can I assume the leak of air caused the woofer to do this? Ay any rate. My back covers are off while BEC upgrades the capacitors on the networks. I am also painting them. Before I put the back cover back on, any suggestions on getting a better seal on the back cover? I have considered some weather window sealing, silicone or just cranking down harder on the screws. jc

Have you picked out your veneer? I am at the same stage on my Corn refinish project. I just finished sanding mine with 220 grit. However, I plan to paint them with Black Laquer. Wife choice. Have 8 klipsch speakers in my basement right now. All black. Can't make the persuation to do anything but black. Your corners look good. Did you stick with the wood filler? I ended up useing elmers glue first then filler on top. I know strange combo. I also cut out small peices of birch veneer purchased from Michael's craft store. I then glued those to the defects. This way, I could make the corners very sharp. jc

Al, Speaking of Ohm. Is it true the ALK networks will work with any combination of drivers whether they are 4,8 or 16 ohm. I wondered how people are integrating the Altec 902 8b with your networks when the K55 is 16 ohm. Will different impedences work with your ALK B networks and the ES networks? For example, say a cornwall with a K77, 902 8b, K33E? Thanks as always jc

On that last picture, why is there a square hole in the bottom of your new box. Shouldn't there just be a top hole for the bottom of the bass bin and two ports. by the way, are you gonna put port tubes in thoase? jc

marvel, I wondered why this hasn't been brought up in a while. The above post is a little out of my understanding. Was the above experience with the ported high frequency cabinet? Was there any experience with the bottom port as seen above. jc

Dean, So this type B ALK will work for the K55 or K57 driver? Is there an adjustment that will need to be made for the K57 running 3db "hotter" My Corn now has the K57 and the K77 with a B-3 network. Also, if I wanted to have a K55 driver comboed with a K400 or K401 horn, could the ALK type B be changed to accomadate this? In time, I will want you to build one of these for me. Haven't yet outlined the whole project yet. Thanks jc

I don't think it would be plywood. I know my 84' corns aren't. My was more like masonite and actually might be masonite. The frame was slightly flexible. 1/2 inch actually is a little too deep but would work. I would use 3/16 inch masonite. Worked well for me. jc

tillmbil, I want more information here. What did Dean build for you? ALK? What drivers do you have and what was your original network? jc

Michael, I will make an attempt to answer your "slam". I am very picky about Bass response. I think most would prefer the low and fast-type bass. Not sure, historically, if a sealed, ported, passive, or horn is the best for this. I will give my observation. I like the Cornwall because the driver and the ports are directed at the listener. The Forte has a rear firing passive radiator that gives a low end "around the room"; not in your face. This will give a lower frequency spec but not the "slam" at listener. I also think the "Passive" woofers aren't as punchy. I have a pair of 5.2's that I love. They too have passive radiators; although front firing. I'm not sure why they don't shine compared to the CW1's. The 5.2's seem "lower" but not quick or punchy. I can't imagine what an updated crossover would do to my Corns. jc

No Disc, Why did you choose the 3 foot option as opposed to 4 foot. Also, are the feet "attached" to the wood base or just sitting on it? jc

Nice idea with the different velcro placement. I basically mirrored my factory grills with the velcro placement. I'm not too concerned with removing the fabric. Besides...it's glued. This project was very cheap. Not too concerned if I had to start the process over. I still have the left over material to make 2 more grills and the templates. No measuring needed. I DID NOT put glue on the front. Gettin ready to DJ for my 12 y/o niece this weekend. I hooked my Carver m1.0t to the CW1's. Tested vs the KG 5.2. CW1's win. Can't believe it; evwen w/o a crossover upgrade (yet!) Those CW's will travel with me for a showdown. So glad I bought these. Just finished redoing the corners since they were damaged. Filler and sanded. Now will paint black laquer in the upcoming weeks. My wife wants em Black. Pics later. jc

Well, I guess I could consider them "original". I have grown to like em. They are more durable than the Factory ones. Not sure if I'm gonna put the KLipsch emblem on them. Right now, I'm repairing the corner defects on them and then painting them black. Will have these details up later. Thanks for the support. jc

Hey, is there any difference in the motorboard cutout for the K601/K57 combo vs the K601/K55 combo. I too have a K57 with a K77 on my CW1. My midrange motorboard opening is 10 1/4 X 3 1/4 inches. In the future, I may consider a swap for a K601/K55 combo. Just in case you folks are looking for some K601/K57 combos. THERE IS SOME ON EBAY RIGHT NOW!!!!! DON'T LET EM GET AWAY!!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7306700976&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT JC

Glad to see this thread was bumped. So Bob, what have you concluded so far with the testing of your drivers? Have you tried any different woofers besides the K-33? jc

I think you should start from scratch. Just get 3/16 inch masonite and cut it to spec. Paint it black on once side and the glue and staple the way you wish. Much easier than repairing a mess. Cheap too. http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=61537&sessionID={30B08277-D06A-4210-9E73-E67F5C3C50D5} jc

Well, I have a better answer than any of the above. Put the dawg outside. jc

3M 77 is the best glue jc

Whoa! Frzninvt, let me hear you say this again. The K-53 diaphragm will work with the K-57? Have you done this? Sounds good? BEC stated to me this was possible but didn't have experience doing it. If that is the case, I'm not so worried about getting a B-3 ALK that is "convertible" for the use with a K-55 driver. jc