archangele

Joe's Dynaco ST70 should come tonight.Good! But,Craig said without a preamp I can't do much with it.BAD! I knew I wanted a preamp,but didn't know I HAD to have one. Hmmm. No one told you that the ST70 needs a preamp? Well, it does. That amp does not even have a volume control. But, it is a very fine power amp. The only negative is the use of the 7199 triode / pentode. The circuit is fantastic sounding but finding good 7199's is not always easy. I am assuming Craig will install his mod board. Anyway, you can opt for a modern preamp or have a vintage one like a Scott LC21 or Dynaco PAS rebuilt and use it. You can also buy a tube line stage preamp and then add one of those new small battery / AC operated phono stages as an outboard device. I have tried a couple and they are quiet, especially when running them with batteries. One preamp that is relatively cheap but sounds fairly good for a solid state is the Dynaco PAT5. There are several component upgrades and mods to enhance it's performance. Don't limit yourself to only tube preamps when dealing with a phono stage. There are several solid state preamps that can actually out perform tube phono stages in several areas. Most notable being the noise floor and hum pickup from the turntable's cartridge and wiring. Personally I switch between a PAS I rebuilt and a LC21 that I have also rebuilt. Both sound similar with the nod going to the Scott on the high end. There are a couple very minor mods I have made to the PAS but for the most part, it is stock with the big emphasis being on cleaning up the wiring and component upgrades. The Scott is totally stock but rebuilt with new capacitors and resistors. Bill B.

I don't know about Klipsch using Crown amps, but I have used their amplifiers in sound reinforcement applications and they are very fine amplifiers. I used a pair out of our sound system in my home for a while and the sound was quite good. I don't know of any crown amp that doesn't perform. They were considered the Rolls Royce of amps in the commercial audio world when I ran, serviced, and set up sound systems for bands and DJs. If you can find a pair of mono or a stereo power amp, chances are you will like it. If it is used in the house for your hi-fi system, it will most probably last a life time. I like these amps because the company builds stuff like I build amps. Tough both physically and electronically. Bill B.

Hi, For around $100 you can get a Grado Gold. I have one in a Technics SL-Q3 and it works great. I just happen to have an older Ortofon in another turntable and to me they both sound great but the Grado is quieter then then Ortofon. In a hybrid preamp I am designing using an FET phono stage, the hum and noise from both cartridges is the same. But using a tube preamp, both a PAS and Scott LC21, both of which I have rebuilt , the Ortofon has a higher level of AC hum then the Grado. As for tracking, both will go down to a little over 1 gram before they start sounding funny. As always, you will have to readjust overhang if you opt for a different cartridge to gain it's optimal tracking performance and sound. Bill B.

I was without a system for about 6 months while I lived in a rental house during a move. I finally gave in and unpacked a couple amps, a turntable and some speakers. I had just had it up to "here" with living out of boxes and set up a system. Two months is a drag. If I have to hang on to an amp that long, I let the owner know up front. I can't do that with commercial amps though. Those guys make their living with their amps. I have found that some peopel could care less how long it takes while others want the amp back as soon as possible. Still, when I work on an amps, I don't put any in the back room as it were and let them hang out for months. The local guitar shops where I used to live did that. They would rip an amp down, then there it would sit. Their tech would have several amps in different states of disrepair all over the shop. Some having been there for over a year. Amazing. Bill B. Audio design, building, and repair at: http://home.alltel.net/wbittle1 I went almost two years without my system. I was at the time (and again now) out of work. The only time I find myself playing it is when I'm happy. ----------------

Hi, How much are you asking for them? Thanks, Bill B.

Clean the filth outa you Zealot ears and get you needelneck to the Bose Store and ...... lordie !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ooookkkkaaaayyyyy, I think I can offer a reasonably good perspective on this issue since I own some Bose speakers as well as several others ranging from AR2A's to Mirage 190is. There are some rather nice sounding Bose speakers. My 301's sound quite nice, but placement is everything. I had a set of 901's which I personally felt sounded flat with artificial bass. But mids and the stereo sound stage were excellent. The big thing is that Bose speakers are very expensive relative to what you get. You pay a lot for that name. As for their newer gear and that wave radio, to me it sounds like typical band pass box technology. If you like thumping one note bass, then Bose bass is for you. If you like to be able to differentiate between an acoustic bass, electric bass, and a bass drum, then forget this acoustic wave or satellite / sub stuff and buy a set of Heresys. If a person feels a bose system sounds better then a pair of Paradigm monitors, then he or she has hearing issues. The bottom line is that Bose does get a lot of sound out of small cabinets and their stuff does not sound half bad. But it is not in the same league as Klipsch or Paradigm. Kind of like comparing a current production Realistic receiver to a vintage Marantz 2270. Just because a lot of people buy Bose does not mean it is good. It just means that they deliver reasonable bang for the buck and that they have good 'spin doctors'. Bill B.

the amp was completely rebuilt and upgraded (moded) by a very competant member of this forum (craig at NOS Valves) it is under a warranty as well thanks for the info Joe ---------------- If it keeps giving you problems you may want to let Craig have a look at it again. What mods were made to it? There is always the chance that one of the new components failed. This happens. Craig is a good tech. He will be able to figure it out. Bill B.

What would happen mechanically and sound wise if I switched the connection from 8 ohms to 4 or 16? Hi, Normally, if the amp is designed such that it's output transformer is of an optimal impedance for the output tubes, you loose efficiency and power when you use an output tap other then the one with the same impedance as the speakers. But speakers are dynamic devices which not only have a static resistance but an impedance that varies due to frequency and resonance peaks. The rating is an average, but not the one and only best value for all amplifiers. Although logic would suggest running 8 ohm speakers from the 8 ohm tap on the output transformer, many times one can actually get better performance by using something other then the 8 ohm connection for a speaker which is rated at 8 ohms. You just have to try and see what sounds best. 9 out of 10 times, an 8 ohm speaker sill sounds best on the 8 ohm connection. But there is always that amp which might perform better when the speakers are connected to 4 or 16 ohms on the amp. Now, in the case of a solid state amp, you run the risk of over heating the amp if you connect lower impedance speakers then the amp was designed to push. If you run too high an impedance, you loose a lot of power. Hope this helps. Bill B. (Wright 2A3's on Khorns) ----------------

What would happen mechanically and sound wise if I switched the connection from 8 ohms to 4 or 16? Hi, Normally, if the amp is designed such that it's output transformer is of an optimal impedance for the output tubes, you loose efficiency and power when you use an output tap other then the one with the same impedance as the speakers. But speakers are dynamic devices which not only have a static resistance but an impedance that varies due to frequency and resonance peaks. The rating is an average, but not the one and only best value for all amplifiers. Although logic would suggest running 8 ohm speakers from the 8 ohm tap on the output transformer, many times one can actually get better performance by using something other then the 8 ohm connection for a speaker which is rated at 8 ohms. You just have to try and see what sounds best. 9 out of 10 times, an 8 ohm speaker sill sounds best on the 8 ohm connection. But there is always that amp which might perform better when the speakers are connected to 4 or 16 ohms on the amp. Now, in the case of a solid state amp, you run the risk of over heating the amp if you connect lower impedance speakers then the amp was designed to push. If you run too high an impedance, you loose a lot of power. Hope this helps. Bill B. (Wright 2A3's on Khorns) ----------------

This is obviously a later Marshall. Marshall amps like the 50 and 100 watt heads of the 60's and 70's had their tubes mounted above the chassis and sat upright. Only later combo amps had sockets on the circuit board and were mounted upside down in the cabinet. Fender did this, but if you look at a Fender amp, the sockets are mounted to the chassis and the tag board is not directly over the sockets. I work on and restore vintage Fender, Ampeg, Gibson and Marshall amps and they last for may years. Most problems are due to the age of the components not poor design. Most all 30+ year old tube amps need to at least have their power supply capacitors changed and to have their coupling capacitors replaced. I also replace the plate feed resistors, bias power supply and all small electrolytic capacitors on the chassis as well as clean all controls and clean or replace input and speaker jacks as necessary. Your Marshall is nothing like the vintage Marshall amps made prior to 1980. I have a 1965 Fender Bandmaster which I have refurbished and still use to this day. It is rock solid and trouble free. The same was true for my 1973 Marshall 50 watt head, (which I sold a few years ago. Real dumb move. ) Bill B. Tube amps at: http://home.alltel.net/wbittle1

Thank you Thank you THANK YOU for posting that! Finally someone writes a good article which touches on the differences between a true pentode like the EL34 and the beam power tubes like the 6550 and 6L6. This totally reinforced my reasoning behind using the EL34 exclusively in both my hi-fi and guitar amps. Although not everyone's cup of tea, I personally find the EL34 and it's little brother, the EL84 to be the finest sounding output pentodes. No, they are not the most powerful, but if I need more power then I can get from a push pull pair, I can always do the push pull parallel thing. Great article with a lot of very good information. I also like the information about the unity coupled amps. It goes a long ways toward explaining why those great McIntosh amps have such a fine and unique sound. Bill B. Vacuum tube hi-fi and guitar amp repair, design and building at: http://home.alltel.net/wbittle1

Hi, A tube amp should not blow fuses just because it is a bit warm, or it is being played loud. Has this amp been rebuilt or does it still have all it's original coupling capacitors and bias power supply components? Any vintage tube amp must be completely gone through by a competent tube amp technician before it will be reliable. Things like the weakening over time of the selenium bias rectifier or the slight DC leakage through an old coupling capacitor can cause an over current condition which will blow the fuse. The number one reason for blowing fuses in amps like the Dynaco ST70 is the 5AR4 rectifier arcing. Chinese 5AR4's are notorious for this. Having your amp biased too hot (too much plate current) can cause the fuse to fail. A shorted output tube will certainly cause a fuse to blow. Do NOT use a larger fuse then the amp specifies!!!If it says to use a 3 amp fuse and it will not run long with a 3 amp fuse in the fuse holder, something is wrong with the amp. Installing a 4 amp fuse will only mask the problem and will most probably lead to a major problem. The next most common problem with a vintage tube amp is the main B+ power supply. Again, in the Dynaco ST70, the 'quad cap", that big 3" x 1.5" silver cylinder next to the 5AR4 rectifier tube can develop a mild short. It will still work, but it will get worse and worse till it loads the power transformer enough to cause the fuse to blow. It generally starts out by blowing a fuse every so often. Then as it gets worse, you find that you are replacing a fuse almost every time you use the amp. Anyway, these are a few of the problems you may have. But fear not, all this stuff can be repaired and is generally not fatal if taken care of before you see smoke. Bill B. Vacuum tube Hifi and Guitar amp repair, design and building at: http://home.alltel.net/wbittle1

Hi, Unfortunately, it sounds like your Denon is in need of service. There are only a few reasons why most solid state amps go into protect and stay there. One is that your DC offset voltage is not 0 and your power amps are trying to produce straight DC at the speaker terminals. In many MArantz receivers, this will trigger the protect circuit. Another problem is a detected high current condition, usually caused by a shorted output transistor. FInally there are devices which cause a shut down due to heat via thermal sensors on the output stage's heat sink. The bottom line is that this unit should be put on a test bench and checked out. If it is as new as you said, it may still be under a manufacturer's warrantee. Check into that first and do NOT open the unit up until you have checked into the manufacturer's warantee. There is no reason any amp should go into permanent protect mode just because someone hit 'mute' then came back and deselected "Mute'. Bill B. Archangele Audio: Vacuum Tube Hifi and Guitar amplifier repair, design and building at: http://home.alltel.net/wbittle1

The LC21 is a very clean sounding preamp and worth the $300 price tag. It is one of the more simple preamps from the "Golden Age" and has a refreshingly clean sound. When properly refurbished, the preamp is quiet, stable and just plain sounds nice. Personally, this is my favorite tube preamp. For years I have been telling people on the H.H. Scott forum that this is the best preamp Scott has to offer with respect to overall sound quality. Ironically, it is their least expensive and was actually a Scott Kit. It's matching power amp is the excellent LK-150. I have had the opportunity to service LK-150 and LC21 systems and everytime I finish with the systems and am ready to box them up I find it incredibly hard to let go of them. I finally got an LC-21 for myself and I can tell you that in an AB comparison against other Scott preamps or the Dynaco PAS series, or even the Marantz 7, I still like the old LC-21. It will drive anything from a Scott LK150 to a Dynaco ST70. Like any vintage preamp that is over 40 years old as the LC21 is, the preamp should be completely refurbished. But the end result will be quite impressive. It is a full featured preamp with stereo / mono selector, Scratch filter, rumble filter, phono preamp eq settings for tape and mag cartridge, separate tone controls for each channel, and even a center channel out with a level control mounted concentrically on the balance control. It also has a tape loop for recording. Hope this helps, Bill B. Archangele Audio; Tube amp service, design and building at: http://home.alltel.net/wbittle1 looking at a scott lc-21 tube preamp, in very good condition working and cosmetics, and am trying to get a value cant seem to fina alot of info on this, also is this a good pre-amp as far as quality construction and sound quality, fella is asking 300.00 for the pre thanks for all the help Joe ----------------

Hi all, I'm Bill of Archangele Audio and I have only lived here in sunny Florida for the past couple years. I was living in the Baton Rouge Louisiana area for the past 10 years and prior to that I lived in upstate N.Y. on the Canadian / U.S. border near the Thousand Islands. As Craig said, I am old school with respect to audio. I just plain like the stuff and now that I am working at it full time I hope to get more and more business. I will work on pretty much anything in tube audio, but am most experienced with Dynaco, H.H. Scott, Bell, McIntosh, Fisher, Eico, and Marantz. I also like working on classic guitar amps and know most Fender, Sunn and Gibson wiring diagrams by heart. Ok, I also know many Scott, McIntosh and Dynaco wiring diagrams as well. I have rebuilt several vintage (pre 1965 vintage) Fender amps which have actually been used in studio recordings in the New Orleans and Baton Rouge areas. I have been reworking amps for around 40 years now. But, one time about 10 years ago I found a pretty tired old Scott 299C and decided to not just fix it but totally electronically restore it. The result was really great and one thing led to another. People started asking me over the internet if they could send me their amps and such to be rebuilt. I must admit that at first I thought it was kind of an odd idea what with shipping costs. But when I saw the kind of work some shops did and what they charged, I knew I could do better for the same price or some times even less. And that was including round trip shipping. I have also 'fixed' and actually had to totally rewire a few modern production tube amps. I was amazed that amps costing over $5,000 could have such silly mistakes and such sloppy wiring. I'm sure Craig has some horror stories and can relate. Craig is cool and one of the few people I have talked to who does not think I'm bonkers replacing all that I do and taking the time to match resistors and such. So, if anyone has tube audio that needs to be made right, feel free to contact me. Like I said, I work on guitar amps as well as hi-fi so if you have a dead H.H. Scott or a Fender, I work on them all and know them quite well. Bill B. Archangele Audio: http://home.alltel.net/wbittle1

I have owned both the SCA35 and presently own two 222C Scott amps. The 222C is more powerful and has better sound. It also runs cooler. The SCA35 is a nice amp though. There are several changes to the wiring of the SCA35 that will enhance it's sound, and the use of high quality components on the circuit boards is a must. I rebuild Hi-fi amps and Guitar amps for a living and know both these amps quite well. When I did my comparison, I used my fully electronically restored SCA35 against a fully electronically restored 222C. So it was not like I was comparing one amp that was a beater to another that was in better condition. Both were in as new operating condition when tested. The biggest thing I noticed was that the Scott phono stage was brighter on the high end. The Scott power amp section had quite a bit more ommph in the lower frequencies but, both amp's power amp sections had nice extended highs. If using a CD player or DVD player, the Scott will have tighter more powerful bass. Both amps will have smooth mids and highs. If I were to be given the choice between the 222C or an SCA-35 for the same price, I would most certainly choose the Scott. It is just plain a step above the SCA35. Kind of like comparing a PAS and ST70 to a PAS3X and a pair of Mark III's. The Scott is a more expencive and more feature rich amp. Yes it is harder to rebuild then the SCA35. Unless you are good with an amp as complicated as an H.H. Scott, you might want to consider having a person well versed in Scott hi-fi amps do the work for you. Scotts have some quirks that only a tech experienced with Scott amps will do justice to. But the end product will be well worth the price. The 222C is one of the finest EL84 / 7189 type integrated amps out there. I've worked on a lot of them from all manufacturers and I still own my pair of 222C's. Most have the brass colored metal knobs and are very attractive looking too. My one 222C is in an original Scott wood case and looks really sharp. Bill B. Tube HiFi and Guitar amp service, design, and building at: http://home.alltel.net/wbittle1 Hi -- I'm new here and was hoping for some opinions. I have the ooprtunity to buy either a Scott 222c or a Dyna SCA-35. Both units are in very nice condition. I've owned an SCA-35 before and really liked it. Plus, it seems easier to work on (to me) due to the PCB design whereas the Scott is point-to-point. But, I'm itching to try the Scott too...and those Scotts look so nice to boot.... Any opinions? Thanks, Michael ----------------

Hi, I rebuild vintage amps for people all over the world and the first thing to consider when buying a vintage amp on Ebay is that it will most probably have to be rebuilt. But, once done, the amp will perform very well. Vintage amps were well designed and have a lot of features especially if you are into vinyl. My suggestion would be to go with a Dynaco PAS 2 or 3, or a Scott LC21 for the preamp and a Dynaco ST70 for the power amp. I have always liked both H.H. Scott and Dynaco because of their build quality, looks, and sound quality. I like the ST70 because it is a good value and responds well to parts upgrades. Most people never give the poor amp a chance in original configuration which is sad. I have rebuilt more then I can count and every one was rebuilt to original configuration with the only changes being the use of high quality resistors which I hand match and high quality capacitors like Auricaps or Musicaps. Also, cleaning up the wiring and dressing the leads helps if you encounter one which was wired in a sloppy manner. All in all, if you shop, you can find an unrestored ST70 and PAS 2 for under $500.00. For another $500.00 you can have the power supplies and circuit boards refurbished with quality parts and end up with a system that will cost many times that to beat. A Scott LC21 preamp is probably one of the best vintage preamps. It isn't as cheap to buy as a PAS2 though. The LK150 by Scott is the usual power amp associated with the LC21 and can be quite expensive, but it can also deliver 60+ watts of power per channel. More then enough to blast you into the next county via a pair of Klipschorns. Another benefit of these components is that they will retain their value if you decide to upgrade to higher priced components. Bill B. This kind of question could be too broad but, I gotta start somewhere. I am going to buy a tube amp, probably an integrated for starters, but I am really longing to go all the way into it at some point with components; pre-amp/amp, pre- and mono blocks, who knows.

---------------- On 5/12/2005 7:27:30 AM seti wrote: I know there are alot of people here that build there own amps and recondition amps so I have a question just out of curiosity. Hi, I design and build new tube amps as well as refurbish vintage amps and modern production amps. The difference between amps can be quite large with respect to price. In general, it has to do with the quality of parts. I have seen some amps that probably cost less to build (with respect to parts cost) then the output transformer on other amps of the same power. But, there are also the companies who sell amps at inflated prices which really do not have the quality parts to command such high prices. Some of the difference is blue smoke and mirrors while some is real and can be measured. To give you an idea of price differences I rebuild amps to different levels depending on what people want. Take a Scott 299 as an example. A standard rebuild including the B+ power supply, bias power supply and all coupling capacitors, small electrolytic capacitors, plate feed resistors as well as several others may cost about $245.00. This is using clamp type replacement electrolytic capacitors, standard IE or Xicon capacitors, and generic resistors. Now, if you upgrade to original style FP type power supply cans, Auricap or Musicap coupling capacitors, and Vishay resistors, you can easily add another $100 in parts alone. This is just a rebuild. Now imagine if you opted for replacing the transformers with Tango or some other high cost transformer. It would not be long before you had the $2,000 Scott 299! But the thing would sound much better then a restoration with generic parts as opposed to the high end components. Would the difference be all that great? Not really, but if you are on the quest for sonic nirvana and you have "Golden Ears" then the $2,000 Scott would most certainly be worth the price. As I said, I have rebuilt many vintage amplifiers and built many new ones. I still do this for anyone who wants and needs my services. I can tell you that using the higher quality and price parts does make a difference. But the difference is subtle. It is more noticable through efficient speakers like Klipsch, though. It is my bet that most all the people on this Kilpsch forum would appreciate the higher quality parts since Klipsch speakers do show up the subtle nuances better then most any speaker I have ever heard. But not everyone has these speakers and many would be just as well off with a less expensive rebuild, or amplifier for that matter. So, although an $8,000 amp may not be right for most, there are many out there who can hear the difference in sound quality and who are more then willing to plop down all that cash for an amp of that price if it does use very high quality parts and lives up to it's price tag. Bill B. What makes an amp truly worth alot of money say 8$K or more just to pick a figure? Essentially it's sound to the buyer. If it is the end all in sound and the person has $8,000, I'm betting the dealer gets the sale.

Hi, It depends on the receiver and how it's power amplifiers are biased. Some solid state amps only get warm when there is a signal going through them. But most good hifi amps are biased such that they run warm with or without a signal being passed through them. Bill

Hi, If you are into McIntosh, a pair of MC30 power amps would sound fantastic through your Klipsch speakers. The Mcintosh amps use a unity coupled design that just plain has fantastic highs while retaining solid bass and crystal clear mids. I have rebuilt many McIntosh amps and preamps and I can tell you that if I had the money for a McIntosh system, I would personally own one. Ok, if tube McIntosh equipment is a little too expencive for you, a fully restored Dynaco ST70 will have enough oomph to drive those Heresys to reasonably listening levels without sounding strained. I own an ST70 in stock form that I have totally reconditioned and it sounds quite nice. Dynaco amps and preamps really respond to different types of coupling capacitors. The ST70 and their Mark series of mono power amps are well worth having coupling capacitors like Auricaps or Musicaps installed. The thing with an ST70 or any other Dynaco amp is that you need it refurbished by someone who really likes Dynaco equipment. I own thre PAS2's, two FM3's and an ST70. They are reliable, and sound good. I have rebuilt countless Dynaco Mark II, III, and IV as well as ST70 and 35 power amps and to me, they just sing. My test rig in my shop uses a blond cabinet Dynaco PAS2 I have refurbished using all matched 2% resistors and Auricap capacitors. This thing really sings. It drives a pair of my own design power amps using a pair of EL34's in push pull ultralinear. Power is similar to the ST70. A PAS preamp and Dynaco ST70 can make for a real fine system when powering a pair of efficient speakers like Klipsch. Don't sell Dynaco short. With respect to McIntosh, I think you will like their tube audio better then their solid state audio driving horn type speakers. Bill B.

I don't know what it takes to get Google to index your site, short of paying money. You hit the nail right on the head. Google only promotes a site if you pay a per search hit charge. It is not at all uncommon for Google to charge a business as much as $100,000 a year for 'hit's'. You could try the news groups and try posting a link to your site there. Look for ones dealing with the types of things her business does. ( example: if you sell tubes, rec.audio.tubes... etc) It used to be that if you included a lot of certain key words in your page title in the HTML code, search engines would pick up on it. I think this is still true. But Google is all about the money. You have to pay them or you get lost in the shuffle unless your site is totally uniqe without much competition in it's area. Bill B.

Hmmmm. As with anything, sound is in the ears of the beholder. I am happy listening to one of my Marantz receivers as well as one of my many restored tube systems. The bottom line is that many of us who are into audio spend our entire lives in the quest for the sonic Holy Grail. I do believe that a lot of what is sold as the end all in audio is nothing short of blue smoke and mirrors, but you must let your own ears decide. Enter into this hobby with an open mind and you have a much better chance of finding the ultimate system. But be realistic. Do A/B comparisons and blind fold tests. You would be amazed at how one can convince one's self that a system is great because one is unwilling to admit that they have possibly made a mistake in judgement. Since I service, design and build both hi-fi and guitar amplifiers, I have had the opportunity to hear a LOT of different gear. It is rare to find something I can not live with. Some sound better then others to me, but that is just my opinion. I agreed with a lot of this article. I also felt that a bit of it fell short of reality. Bill B.

Ebay can be scary at times. Give the person some time. Many times I have had a delay in answers to my emails only to find out that the person was on vacation, or had a family emergency. In all of those cases, the seller was very apologetic and really went out of their way to make me happy. Some even paid the extra out of their own pocket to ship priority! There are some scam artists on ebay. So, I tell people to never use the automatic checkout or pay via paypal unless you contact the seller first and get a quick (within one day) reply. In fact, if it is a big purchase, try asking questions prior to bidding to see how well they respond. If they seem to be ignoring emails, be careful. Most people on ebay are honest, but as I said, there are some scam artists. Bill B. Dynaco PAS2's, ST70, home designed mono power amps, several Scott and Fisher amps, Marantz receivers. Speakers by KLH, AR, Mirage, ELectrovoice and soon, a pair of Heresys! Ok,you caught me. Yes, I am an amp tech and work on and design tube guitar and hifi amps and just plain love tube audio.

---------------- On 4/2/2005 7:46:00 AM flegz wrote: New-B 2 New-B Welcome!! I just purchased a pair Heresy's for $395 including the shipping from ebay. I expect to be a customer of yours in the near future. I am aiming at an all tube set up this year. Best Luck!! Hi, Sounds like I should be able to find a cosmetically challenged pair for around $300 if I shop. Sounds good to me! I'm rather good with wood working as well and have no problems refinishing speakers. Any time you need an amp serviced, or are interrested in a pair of new power amps, feel free to contact me. I must thank everyone who has responded to my questions on the Heresy speakers. These seem like a perfect fit for my application. Now to hunt down a pair. I think I'll try the local store first, see what he can do with respect to price. Failing that, I can check the Ebay auctions. Bill B.

Cool, Actually that guy at the local hi-fi shop who told me he could get them for around $500 was offereing a pretty good deal then. That is if he can deliver. This shop deals in high end hi-fi gear, both stereo and home theater. He even has turntables and some tube gear. He does get in used equipment all the time as well. I checked Ebay and htere are several pairs up for auction so I'm watching those and may bid on a pair if I can keep the total with shipping under $500.00 I just bought a pair in very good condition on ebay for $600+. Cosmetically-challenged pairs can be had for less. Hereseys aren't that big or heavy - shipping shouldn't be a problem. Good luck.