thepathlesstaken

If you have no problem driving your HT to levels (loudness vs distortion) that are acceptable to you and it (the receiver) is still decoding and doing everything you want it to do then stay where you are until the previous two conditions are not being met. Sounds like you might want to tinker with having a seperate amp or pre-amp (or two) for just two channel listening and testing sound differences. If you really like any of these amps / pre amps you buy then start going down the separates route buying the stuff you have enjoyed listening to in the two channel setup.

I own one pair that was my fathers and I am in the process of restoring another pair that I bought about a month ago. They are an amazing clumination of ARs engineering over the 20 plus "golden years" that the company operated. They are very subuded in the dynamics (except for the low end) when compared to my Chorus 2 or Forte 2 but still have an amazing true to live sound reproduction. During trade shows AR used to have live musicians (usually a quartet) perform then play said recording through their speakers for evaluation. Both Klipsch and AR strived for reproduciton of live sound (without EQing), something which I think most speaker designers "don't get" these days.

Nice buy Fritz! I finally got some tube amps (Dyna ST-70 and PAS-3) along with some preamps to test out. There should be some follow up post(s) as to the difference from using a Yammie RX-V1500, G.A.S. Ampzilla and the Dyna amps.

Acoustic Research 9 - Pinaccle of AR development 3/4" Soft Dome Tweeter // 2.5" Dome Midrange with Horn Flange // 8" Mid-Bass // (2) 11" Woofers with Qtc of .5 and -3 dB at 28 Hz Paul Klipsch and Edgar Villchur had the right ideas when it came to reproduciton of sound.

They don't need to be re-coned (thats replacement of cone, voice coil and spider) but rather need to be re-foamed or re-edged. It is a pretty easy task and enjoyable if you like to work with your hands. I have refoamed 40 or so speakers so far. Here are a few tips: 1) I use a highly bright light on an end of a flexi stalk in order to heat up a 3" area where the foam meets the cone or basket so as to make the glue more pliable. Some glues don't take well to this but the majority of them do. 2) Use a drimmel with wire brush to clean up the basket / foam contact area afterwards if there is lots of sticky residue. Regardless of the residue you just might want to scuff up this area with light grit sandpaper in order to make the adhesive stick better. 3) Shims work fine but you can also do the work sans shims even with highly efficient speakers (smaller voice coil gap). I have done two Cerwin Vega re-edges sans shims and they both have come out fine. 4) The milky white glue that most re-edge kits come with SUCKS because it is hard to work with (takes 5 minutes to setup). Go with kits that supply the orangish / yellowish glue. 5) Orange County Speaker repair is a very legit company for re-edge kits. You have to request the orangish glue though with some kits. They might have stopped offering JBL kits as I think that JBL wants to start doing all that stuff in house now or something (think I read this recently). If you have any questions just PM me

Extension is not the end all for live reproduction of music. The biggest parameter beyond extension, distortion is the Qtc (interaction of the speaker with the enclosure) of the system. The lower the Qtc the more critically damped the driver is which in turn makes for a more accurate reproduction. No speaker I have heard has come close to reproducing low bass as well as an Acoustic Research 9 speaker (two 11" woofers with a Qtc of .5) I have not had all that much time listening to a K-Horn but what I have heard it just does not compare to the natural bass sound that the AR 9s make.

I think this pretty much sums up the difference between 1 way / 2 way vs 3 way speaker designs. Less drivers = better imaging and soundstage More drivers = much more live "you are there during the performance" sound. The above is especially true with Klipsch speakers. While I do love my KG 5.5s they don't hold a candle to my Chorus 2, Forte 2 or Forte for the live sound.

Weeeeee! Just picked up some clean albiet rarely used in the past 10 years vintage Dynaco equipment. (2) - Dynaco Dynakit Stereo 70s (2) - Dynaco Dyna PAS-3X Preamps The sun was shining on my sphincter today as I got them for all for less than $300.00 USD. The seller (one Stereo 70 was built by him in his college days) was happy to see them go to someone who will restore, take care and most of all listen to them. I've been waiting to get some tube equipment but the San Diego market for used tube stuff is pratically nil. Ebay prices are a bit too much for my tastes so I waited and waited .....! Very happy and very backlogged for restoration and repairs (still working on a pair of Acoustic Research 9s). Its good to have a few irons in the fire from time to time. Can't wait to try them out with AR9, Chorus 2 and some KG 5.5.

Though these have been suggested already here are my two favorite horror flicks mainly becuase they are suspenseful (they make you think because its not all visual). The Thing (John Carpenter version) Alien Props to these fine films Evil Dead Series Shawn of the Dead

"A fool and his money are soon parted"

Remove the mid woofer and check the spider (yellow / orangish thing below the cone) to see if the glue has deteriorated making the spider come loose from the basket. I recently had to re-glue a spider on a 15" Chorus 2 driver. Orangecountyspeaker sells the orange glue to do so. If this does not solve your problem see if any of the speaker / tweeter leads are hitting the cone.

Get a DLP as LCD projectors degrade over time (check out some Texas Instruments tests that they ran on them). http://www.projectorcentral.com/lcd_dlp_test.htm

Around $150-250 depending on various factors.

Title pretty much sums it up. I live in San Diego but we can arrange shipping or pickup. They are a finished black veneer and have some slight cosmetic damage (few chips and scratches). I intend to refinish mine to match my WO Chorus ][ mains. All three drivers are working flawlessly with no damage to them. Asking $325.00 for the single Chorus ][. Since I have been alerted to good deals here from other members ($300.00 Fortes with upgraded X-overs) I am selling this speaker at the exact cost that I paid for it. Pics are coming as I still have to pick these up. Give a call at 760 208 8877 and ask for Mark if you want to go over the details.

For me personally (I have a 4 year old Samsung 56" DLP) I really like DLP technology as there is so many positive things about it. Its cheap (price wise), not many moving parts (easy to repair), no half life on the picture (replace bulb and its brand new), and the picture is on par with pretty much all the other tech that is out there right now. Since OLED and SED (check out these two techs with google) are on the horizon my suggestion to anyone now not needing a slim panel, need a gaming display or are combating light interference is to get a DLP set. I am guesstimating there will be new display tech (see above) that will put LCD and Plasma to shame in the next 3-5 years. Price difference is a considerable amount considering you get less display (screen area) for twice the price on these 720p sets. All quotes below are for Samsung displays quoted through froogle. 56' DLP = ~1500 46' LCD = ~3250 50' PLA = ~3250 Check out avsforums for a bit more info.

Box Set - Thread - Release date: 02/07/1998 Acoustic / Electric Guitar duo that mix up various styles of music to produce something fresh and new (rock, soft rock) CD 1. Back To You 2. Every Moment 3. Valentine 4. A Little Colder 5. Train 6. Amsterdam 7. Eighteen Days Of Rain 8. One Step 9. How Could I Lie? 10. Falling 11. Compound 12. SleepOverall a great CD that I can listen to the whole thing without skipping a track (hard for me to do this). There is such craftmanship in this music, no "wall of sound" just genuine good musicianship paired with honest sounding mixing. Back to you, Valentine, Train, Amsterdam, and Compound are so far my favorite tracks.

Think I am going to pass on the PS3 and Xbox 360 like I did with the PS2 and Xbox last generation. There were very few original intellectual property games released on both of these systems last generation and I don't see this changing with the next generation hardware. Development times (mainly due to graphics) have skyrocketted becuase of hardware capability, while gameplay and fun (yes, games are supposed to be fun not repetetive) have suffered. Nintendo still has it right IMO, concentrate on making fun and innovative games while coupling that with new hardware (firsts; d-pad, analog stick,motion sensor controller) that really contributes to playing the game. The Wii (Nintendos next hardware platform) is making developement easier with massive third party support for software tools and coupling that with a less difficult platform to program for (no dual processors, cell chips ect). Nintendos in house development team has me hook, line and sinker. Software drives the sale of hardware as time has shown (Apple - Visicalc / PC - Word / Excel / Outlook - Mac - Protools / Desktop publishing). Too bad so many newer generation people (those that did not grow up with 8 bit to 32 bit Nintendos) give Nintendo a bad rap due to the precieved "Kiddy Console" image that Nintendo conveys. I applaud Xbox Live for supporting and striking deals to bring small developement teams games to market. It is for this reason alone that I think that I might, just might buy an Xbox 360. DrWho - Go get "Grand Prix Legends" for the PC and couple that with a force feedback steering wheel. Probably the best racing sim (emphasis on sim) of all time that I have played.

Do you want to try vintage speakers or newer (past 10 years) ones for this room? My suggestion is to head to http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/ and check out what people say about various AR or KLH bookshelf or smaller floorstanders. I have a pair of AR 91s that sound amazing in a 12' x 12' room. Course the big guns in my AR arsenal are the AR9s which are located in my main listening room 15 x 26. AR3 / AR2x are some of the best bookshelf speakers I have heard when completely restored.

Bit of an update Passive Radiator 1 on 97' - 1 pound and 14.1 ounces Passive Radiator 1 on 97' - 1 pound and 12.4 ounces Passive Radiator 1 on 98' - 1 pound and 12.6 ounces Don't know why there would be a 1.7 ounce difference between the two 97's.

I have both pairs of the aftermentioned speakers in the title. It seems the construction of the two years passive radiators differs in cone material; 86' has a more of a standard ribbed and nippled pulp cone while the 87' looks more like a woven fabric pattern. I want to keep the 86' pair but alas the 86'ers butyl rubber surround on the passives is slightly cracked. Thinking I could just swap the 87's passives out to the 86's I intended to do so until I noticed the difference in cone material. Said cone material differences could lead to different weights (those glued in under the dust caps) being used to tune the radiator for either years passive radiators. Not having the proper passive cone weight / resistance would throw the tuning of the radiator off, correct?

I guess my next question would be how do the different material compositions (phenolic, polymer, titanium) of the squaker / tweeter domes sound when compared to each other (i.e. using a Forte as a center channel with two Forte 2 mains (phenolic domes vs. polymer domes). Anyone have experience listening to a setup listed above?

I have read a considerable amount about timbre matching here on the forums. I can understand the reasons behind why you would want to do this as it would present a "seamless soundstage" when using matching speakers for LF / C / RF and any rears. Having just recently purchased some KG 5.5s for HT duty and finding that Klipsh did not make a very good center match for them leads me to my question in the title above and in the paragraph below. Is it more important match a center channels driver part number (i.e. K-55) or the cone or diaphragm materials on the midrange driver or tweeter to a given left main / right main speakers drivers (tweeter or midrange) or cone and diaphragm materials. I would guess that the midrange driver would be more critical becuase the human ear is more sensitive to the 2000 to 5000 cycle range.

Woot! Well about a month ago I had started my venture forth into Klipsch land with a purchase of a set of Chorus. They (the Chorii) sounded pretty good compared to my AR9s but really lacked the crisp low end (sub 40 Hz) that I am accustomed to coming from my AR9s (-3 dB 28 Hz and a Qtc of .505). The Chorii seem to have a emphasis of bass in the 60-100 Hz range which give a great "in the chest" slam experience but that is not exactly what I am looking for in a speaker. The midrange on the Chorii seem a bit rough (distortion and or a high ear piercing shrill sound) during some voice passages also, they sound good but not even in the same league of the AR9s. I just picked up these Fortes above, they were beaten up by shipping, veeneer chips a plenty, risers removed but owner still had them (yay) and one of the female rubber grill plugs missing. I can live with the chips, risers but not the plug missing as it unseals the enclosure on the motorboard side. Does anyone know if Klipsh has replacments? Now on to the meat of the two hour listening I just had with these. The prior owner had told me that the original owner (these have had 3 owners now, me included) altered or changed out the crossover network. So I was a bit leery when listening to these but they sounded great on his Jolida amp, so I fired up good ol Ampzilla and put in some Dire Straits (Dire Straits, 1st CD). Oooooh aaaah, I hear low subsonic bass, wow the sound stage is enormous, the midrange is just downright clear and wants to suck you in deeper to the music. I am sold, I don't think I will let this pair of Fortes go and if I did it would be to get a nicer pair of Fortes. Hopefully in next few weeks I will take a peek at the "replaced" crossover network and see exactly what was done. Once again big thanks to Bill (Silversport) for alerting us (well me in this instance) up with a potential to get this Forte set. The seller David is also extremely nice and might I suggest to check out his other items on Audiogon (handle there is hosanna6).

Thanks Bill! Audiogon just let me finally sign in and I sent the seller a msg. Hopefully I can pick them up tomorrow as I will be in the Tustin area!

I'd be all over them but Augiogon has some supposed 6-12 hour delay once you sign up. So alas I am unable to contact the seller. If anyone could contact him for me please and ask him to call or email me I would highly appreciate it. djd00d AT hotmail.com - (zeros in the 00 part of d d) or 760-208-8877 Thanks Mark