Groomlakearea51

or get seriously wasted just before your next physical at the doc..... [6]

DTV and the receiver have to get together, become friends, synch, have a beer, etc.....

Nice Maggies!!!

Rick; poly-pic needs to go......

LOL!!!! [Y]

Gotta' love it when the system is "worked" in your favor!!! [Y]

[Y] [6]

Tried the partial freezing to make Eisbock before (many times....); not bad, but you have to kill a six-pack just to get a good full glass of the stuff..... I think I shall find a "pre-prepared" version, LOL!!!!

[Y]

Darn! I thought they had more Levi's genes... []

Report Card Time: SW-1XX's (this case...SW110's) No problems, just takes time to dial them in. The only problem I would say is that the phase control could also have a 45, and a 90 degree setting. Finish is heavy duty and cleans up well. My wife likes them as they are so plain jane that they "disappear" into the living room and bedroom background. One trigger switch went bad (would come on, but not turn off....); Klipsch immediately replaced the plate amp and no problems since. Looks like for the price, they are a very good choice. Anyone with a report card on the 115's?

[Y]

Tis very nice!! The best racks I've seen always seem to be those made by the Forum members!!!

Welcome to the Forum At face value, it sounds like you may have the sub "dials" cranked over as far as they will go,what's happening is that it is clipping and going into safe mode, then back. Set the dials to the 12:00 position (mid way), and try that. You can only "push it" so far. My son has an xbox, and some of the games have somewhat weak bass when streamed (xBox live). The other problem could be with the Yamaha receiver. If you are playing with a very loud volume level, you may be momentarily clipping the amp, and it shuts down the sub output until it recovers. Unfortunately, you may just need a more powerful amplifier to handle the loudness levels you want. Just some ideas.

Fritz's idea for bleach is another lightening option. Traditionally, oxalic acid will also do the same thing. Be careful with the bleach.... Leave it on too long and will cause the cellulose fibers to break down... With unstained raw birch, usually a very light sanding will restore the hue to the consistent light, almost "pinkish" hue of the raw birch. Oil based stain, once it's set up, is very difficult to lighten because it has saturated the fibers over time. Lacquer thinner, if used quickly, and with several applications, will likely be much more effective than min spirits. The key is to soak the surface, but get it off quickly before it penetrates to the glue than binds the veneer to the substrate. That can usually be repaired by "ironing" the entire surface to re-cure the glue.

I tried that once..... and believe me the STFU policy does not do anything except lead to the UFO policy..... [6]

[Y]

Kulmbacher Eisbock for the manly man German beer afficionado's out there!!! [Y] Very hard to find in the US though.... Red Hook brewery out of New Hampshire appears to have an acceptable substitute, though....

I knew there was hope in this world!!!!

Rick, I zapped him.... LOL!!!

rubber "feet" always seem to reduce resonance issues with hardwood floors. I even made a lower "top" section panel for the Klipschorns to seal the bottoms from the floor and used "feet" to isolate the speaker itself from the floor. The speaker is "isolated" from the walls by speaker gasket tape on all edges that are supposed to flush with the walls. It does make a difference as it kills off unwanted vibrations through the floor.

I do hope it gets resolved for you.

I've listened to the wooden mods, 400's and 401's. Me? For the money (and I generally don't listen at higher SPL's), the 401's do just fine. Depends on your ears, checkbook (LOL!!!), etc.

Welcome to the Forum; some thoughts to your questions below 1.There is some darkening on top from years of exposure, handoil and dust. I was planning a light sanding and it sounds like micro paper is perferred over steelwool? Yes, over time birch, being a lighter wood, will tend to yellow from exposure to light, and from any oiling buildup. Before you do anything, you should wipe the speakers down with lacquer thinner to remove the old oil, dirt, etc. Allow to dry and repeat the process a couple times until the rag being used is coming off clean. Allow to dry, then a final wipe with mineral spirits. Sanding is great and the end result is much better, but you probably want to either buy or borrow a good quality random orbital sander. Not only does it make the job far easier, the sanding results will be far better than attempting to do it by hand. You will want some 400 grit pads, some 600 grit pads, and at least 16 of each grit. You want to change pads quite often, and it takes two pads per panel. Be careful and practice on the bottom panels before proceeding to the sides and tops. Always sand with the grain, and do not press down; simply go back and forth, and after a couple passes, wipe off the residue with a damp cloth. 2. it sounds like a conditioner would help to eliminate porous areas and reduce splotching? Does watco make this product or is minwax a good choice? Depends.... applying a conditioner will certainly cause the stain to be very even, but will not accentuate some of the grain patterns that youmay want to be more visible. 3. I was thinking of darkening the stain. It sounds like watco Danish oil (golden oak or med walnut). The Watco products are really good for "fine tuning" the stain's "hue", but the best method is to select a couple stains and experiment with a piece of birch plywood. usually, to control just how fast and how deep the stain gets is to dilute the stain 50/50 with mineral spirits, wipe, let sit for a couple minutes, then wipe off with a slightly dampened rag with mineral spirits. Allow to dry, and then apply the oil of your choice on the test piece(s). Then pick what you want and do the same with the cabinets. 4. I assume you would also stain the back panels. I thought it might be neat to clearstain the backs and pedistals for contrast. any downside? You may also wish to paint the back panels and the "risers" satin or semi-gloss black. Depends, of course, on what you are looking for in "decor". Before you "venture" into the project, you should remove the back panel and the drivers; I also suggest you consider re-painting the motor boards and installing fresh new velcro for the grills. Hope that is of some assistance.

1974 Laphroaig for sedating JB while dtel and I clean out the loot!!