Trey Cannon

The stands do not have the little rubber toe and the set screws on the ball joint are larger. The cabinet is a bit different in size. There are no sound differences. FYI: If you ever check the Quintet with a resistance meter, you will get some strange readings. There is a capacitor in line with the woofer and tweeter. This makes testing with a meter impossible.

Steve's number is 1-800-554-7724 ext 8530

I think you may have left me a phone message. I am sending the info you need to your email address.

.Frankly Charlotte, I dont give a damn!

Thanks to all that posted here. With out getting to sappy, it means a lot what you all have said. It looks like an "old" friend will take my place. Steve Phillips (stevep to all of you) is moving into the Klipsch Tech support chair as well as continuing his work with Aragon tech support. Matt Whatley is still here to help as well.

Michael is right If you cannot find what you need, let me know I will send you one. No charge. Just Email me at work

I have seen this in the SW subs before. The SW sub was built in the day of Pro logic. Therefore, the input section of the amp is built for standard line level. In todays world of DD 5.1 and DTS the LFE track can produce up to +10db more level than standard. This over drives the input of the sub and can cause it to pop in the output. I suggest you turn the receiver sub level down to about ¼ of its total. Then turn the level on the sub up as high as you need to get the output you want. Also, remember that your shack meter cannot respond to the frequency of the sub the way it does to the other speakers. It will not read the same. Use that good ear you have. If it sounds right it is right. For music it is a great sub, but you may never be happy with the SW sub in todays HT.

JWP Great avatar... Keith is right. Let us know if you need more help.

To all that cares As of Monday, I will be leaving Tech Support. I am going to work in the lab in R&D. This is where I started with Klipsch. When I started the Tech Support calls were coming to the lab. It was hard for the Techs and Engineers to get anything done. Finding that I talk a lot and can talk to anyone, they handed me a phone and made me Tech Support. There has been very little time in the last 3 years that the phone has not been in my hand. I have made so many friends on that phone I cant count them all. Some (like Steve P) have come to work with us, and is one of my best friends in the world. The gang that made it to Hope as The Klipsch Fan Club was one of the best times I have had. Showing others around in Hope or here in Indy, is always fun for me. None of that will change. Nor will the fact that if any of you need to contact me, you can. I will be working the phone for a few more weeks as I work with the other Techs to take my place. After that, email will be the best way to contact me. I will still be here on the forum and will help all I can. Thanks for putting up with me and Know that We think of all of you as the extended Klipsch family.

The hum (most of the time) is a ground loop. It can come from many things, but the cable TV system is the worst for this. Try disconnecting the cable from the wall, does the Hum go away? If there is no hum with the cable disconnected, the cable is problem. A Magic Box can fix the problem. You can get this from our on line store. Look a shop from our main page on the site. If not there are a few things we can go through. 1. Disconnect the speaker from everything BUT the wall outlet. Does the hum stop? 2. Connect just the speaker wires to the speaker, no rca. Does the hum stop? If it hums with nothing connected, the amp may be the problem. If it only hums with the rca cable connected, then the rca may be the problem. IF none of this works, Email me or call and we can go from here.

The II in the name of your speaker that has the letter K in the SN tells me that they may be of another style than the standard Cornwall. My 1967 models have the II in the name, and they have vertical mounted horns If you will send me an email at work I will try and look your speakers up in the old logbooks. That may give us a bit more info. My best guess is that they are 1969.

Well its a bit vague, but from what I know the format and SN data was placed on computer around that time. Dont laugh, but they were using the old trash 80 and 8inch floppy disk. Remembering that we are a speaker co and how a floppy stores data you can put 2 and 2 togetherthe result is that we dont have that info any longer. Every company makes mistakes from time to time, that was one of ours.

Richard, If you have had a RSW sub for only 3 weeks and it has a problem, you need to contact your dealer. They can replace it for you. Or send it in for repair. As for your call, I was out Friday and had forgotten to turn my phone off. If you left your message on my line, it will not get answered or returned until Monday when I return.

Scott, Are the subs hooked up to the same connection on the receiver? If so, and the other sub is still working, the problem is in the one questionable sub. If the red light is on, it tells us that the power supply is working. You will need to get the sub amp fixed. I can send you a schematic or you can get an RA and return the amp to Klipsch for repair. There is a flat rate for such repair. The RA dept can tell you that price.

Doug, That looks like something I did a few years back... FYI: from about 83' to 89'-92 that format may not hold true.

My guess is about $500 - $1800

Eric, I found your answer in my "Drafts". Looks like I answerd it but did not send it...A lot of good that did you. I have sent it now and I do appoligze for the deley.

The Dope from Hope papers were not "copywrited". As Artto says, the Audio Papers have various copywrites involved. Copywrites do not "expire". Without permission, "eBay guy" is extremely exposed. Klipsch does not own all the copywrites to the Audio papers, but the people that do may not like it.

The alnico K-77 began appearing in Klipsch products in 1957. PWK used to have to sort them into three different sensitivity batches, and then do three slightly different networks for each variant to accommodate them. They eventually got consistent enough in the late 60's to drop the sorting. The point is that both versions have had variability, but the K-77-M has had far less. When people say they've compared the old with the new, it is unlikely that they really know where each falls in their respective tolerance ranges. When the change was made (for cost reasons), the nominal vs. nominal difference was inaudible to all at Klipsch, including PWK.

Were your questions answered?

Yes, do check the fuse. If it is blown try Radio Shack part number 270-1022 for the ksw-12 and 270-1021 for the ksw-10. Each fuse is a bit larger than the original, but will work fine.

Hey Mike keep the arrows going from the receiver to the sub... use a "Y" at the sub to incress the sig. to the sub. I will check in Sun to see how you did'

Anytime

I received the same mail... Things are looking better for the J man'

Radio Shack cat # 270-1021 This is a 1 amp slow blow, but will work just fine... If it blows this one, you have a amp problem.