InVeNtOr

it's in the top for me as well. the reason i picked this specific veneer, the lighter grain, matches the copper cones perfectly. i thought it would give them a stellar look. top that off with all the mod work (despite what a specific person thinks) i was planning on have a super custom great looking set. i was going to have the mains, center, and sub all done. i was going to keep all 4 RS-42's original.

i believe. it's supposed to the best you can get. it's wood backed as well.

i have several sheets of Aircraft Grade A Ebony veneer. i cherry picked these so that i could re-do my RF-7's. as you can tell, there are plenty to do 2 towers and even a RC-7. there is 1 sheet that i picked so that i can do the front of the RC-7 (it's the smallest piece in the pics). there should be enough to do a sub (Sunfire 12") as well. i'm open to offers....

decided to keep these cables. i just can't replace them for anything less than $30 a foot. Furutech Link i have 3 cables for sale. i moved and now these are too short. i don't mind keeping them, they will make great power cables later, but i'd like to try and pass on a good deal. i purchased these at Sonic Craft in TX so these are 100% legit. 2 cables are just a hair shorter than 6' and the other is just shy of 4'. the Furutech bananna plugs are not included. Fyi, the pic of the bent Furutech bananna plug, that was all that happened when the glass ET stand fell and my LPA-1 amp was being held up! those were also purchased at Sonic Craft. the link will provided all the nice detals, but the simple version.... it's a Star Quad design, so it's an EMI protected harness with out the need of shielding... 4 x 14awg wires, you can bi-wire or not. if you don't, it's 11awg... edit: Sonic Craft just got back with me. Jeff said it is 5N copper. $50, i'll cover PP and Shipping. (the break down is $2.50 per ft and $10 for shipping)

Thanks!

did i miss the RF-7 diagram? also, does anyone have the RC-7?

i did a complete mod on my 7's back in 2010. i wonder how they would test....based on what you found, just looking at mine, what do you think the results would be.... https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/119273-rf-7-rc-7-cabinet-mod/?hl=%2Brf-7+%2Bcabinet https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/119525-upgraded-rc-7-crossover-wpics/ https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/119526-upgraded-rs-42-crossover-wpics/ https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/119183-rf-7-and-rc-7-horn-mod/ i'll need to find someone who has the same equipement so i can test them out....

i use a 3.1. works great. i have modified speakers and my imaging is great. i usually trick people by asking how the center sounds....then i pick it up and hand it to them....quite funny....

RS for SIDE RB for REAR. i have 2 pair's or RS-42's and they keep up just fine with my RF-7's. (all 7 of my speakers are modified, so it might not be a fair argument). the reason i have 2 pair's of RS-42's and don't use a RB for the rear, is because the seating position was with in 4'.

i'm in pretty much in the same sitution. my first choice is a pair of RB-81's and a RC-64 for a 3.1 set up. not sure if you want to do a 3.1, but it does do a great job. i currently have a 3.1 with RF-7's and RC-7 powered by a UMC-1 and XPA-3. if the 81's are not small enough, you could go with the 61's paired with the RC-62. i really like the look of the 64, so i am hoping the 81's really work out. a small part of me really would like the G-42, but i can't see spending that much money for a really nice soundbar.

i use to have a set of these. i really liked them. they even sounded better after a crossover upgrade. i would think the price you are asking these would be bought quickly. good luck with the sale.

i'm an Avionics Tech. been doing it since 95. (military then private). same basic job as Scrappydue. i am currently working on the E6 which is the second most top secret aircraft the US has. the first....take a wild guess....lol! i have a Top Secret clearance just so i can be on the aircraft when we power it on. that clearance still does not cover what stuff does! i need to go a few levels higher to know that stuff, which honestly, i don't want to know. it's a fun job, i really enjoy it (it's also the reason i build all my power cables and am into Mods so much, i do it day in and day out). my favorite place to work was AAC in dallas. we built custom private Airbus A318/A319 for overseas royality. these jets were amazing! anything and everything went into them. it was neat to see that half the aircraft was just their bedroom! the wife is a bank teller, but she does so much more than that. it's a small community bank and she is one of their top 3 tellers (out of all the tellers in all 4 banks). she will be moving up in the company, they love her that much.

pm sent.

A1UC, so if you don't mind me asking, what did you try to sell yours for? am i asking too much? they haven't changed the 20pfi since i bought it, and i'm assuming that design has been in production for a while. if i can sell the 20pfi, i'll be using it's smaller brother PST-10D (or M10HT-PRO from Panamax). i guess it's not that big of a deal if i can't sell it. i'm more interested in selling my extra surrounds and LPA-1. i'll have to get off my butt and post some good pics and see if anyone is interested.

cecaa850, it looks like just u and me like to protect our gear! lol. oh well, i guess i'll keep it!

i'm letting go of my furman 20pfi. for no other reason than i simply don't need it anymore. since i have down sized to a 3.1 i don't need the extra power correction for 1 amp. it's in great condition haven't had a single issue with it (i really hope not, it's built like a tank!). i have both orginial power cords (15a & 20a). i have also made a custom power cord with gold cryo'd connectors, teflon silver plated wire, and of course a shielded harness with 100% shielded connectors. that's not included, but it could be. i also have the orginial box. i'm thinking $800 + shipping. i'm located in OKC, but i can make arrangements to be in TX. also willing to drive a bit (depending on location). i'm open to offers, PM me and we can talk. (sorry about the pic, i didn't do any staging)

the Emotiva rep was the one leading me in that direction. it does make the most sense. from what others have said the satalite speakers up front are hit and miss. really depends on how you set them up.

ah, let them play....here is more kindling.... Diablo 3 PS3 vs. Diablo 3 PC???? right now ROS isn't coming out until Aug and the PC is having all kinds of fun with Loot 2.0! i really like the online play with the PS3, it's the first game EVER on the ps3 i played multiplayer. i actually did it on accident, i was a level 60 before i even noticed it. i was just messing around and have been playing multiplayer ever since. oh, anyone getting 3 EVGA Titans to run SLI?????

i wouldn't buy the UMC-200, if anything buy the Fusion 8100. sounds the same as the UMC-200 (according to Emotiva). it's the debate i also have, either 8100 or XMC. i have 7's and i can say you need 200W per speaker. i would get the 8100 let it power your rear speakers and have your Outlaw just power the front 3. i'm assuming the outlaw amp acts like the emotiva where it divides the power per input, so if you just used that amp with 1 speaker, then you would have 1400w available. so if you used just it for LCR it would be 466w X 3. of course i only suggest that if you want to go the emotiva route. personally, i'd say let the Elite power the rears and outlaw power mains. that's usually my suggestion if at all possible. i currently have my 7's, UMC, and XPA-3. i'm thinking of trading out the UMC for the XMC and keep the amp the same. i really think the amp makes the most difference in a HT set up. yes, i know different receivers sound different, but usually you can't hear the difference unless you are in a 2CH set up or listening to music. at least that is how it is for me. i did all my testing in 2CH, kept the settings i like the best there, and then used it only for HT. really what you could do is have the elite power everything, see how it sounds, then let the outlaw power everything, see how that sounds, and then let the elite power the rears and outlaw power mains, and see which one you think sounds best, before you buy anything new. just my 2 cents....

Youth, you got it right! sorry guys, i can't ask the right question. i've talked Youth's ear off before so he now speaks "Dave". that is why i traded out my fat ps3 for the slim is the bitstream issue. i've told Youth before i don't even own any CD's (well except for those "Bells" - my fellow cable tests probably still hear that CD in their sleep! lol) i saw something last night about bitstreaming but i wasn't sure if that was the reason so many years ago. i was going crazy there for a moment. if the new slim and ps4 are the same when bitstreaming or DVD audio are conserned, i will for sure wait until it's much cheaper. thanks again!

if you are still considering speaker stands i have some i made out of African Mahogony hardwood. these are solid. now, they are not "perfect" i'm not the greats furinature builder, but they are nice. there are some pics of them in my gallery. they are 40" tall and nicely fit the RS-42's. there is also hole drilled in them (hidden) so that you can run speaker wire up them and through the top. let me know what you think. where do you live? i'm in OKC but the stands are in TX.

well, if the fat (orginial 60GB) could play ALL the same sound codex's as the new slim version, i'm going to be upset. that's something i even called Sony about. what ever the newest audio samples were (again, i think it was the HD and up) the fat couldn't play. there wasn't a software upgrade that would do it, it was all hardware that needed to change. again, that's according to Sony and a few other web sites i read on. i'm still doing some googling and can't find anything except hardward and controller differences. the 4 has a nice 8 core cpu vs. a single in the 3. no one even mentions the audio in either. one article does state the 3 will get a software upgrade to handle the 4K. i probably won't get a 4K anytime soon (maybe when everything is 4k). i think Youthman has the 4 and a swanky blu-ray player, might need him to chime in.

i used some aircraft grade foam. it's also vibration dampning. check out some of my links in my sig, you will see it. works great. when i got my 7's the both had different "foam" in there and different amounts of it. figured, it couldn't be worse to change it! what i like about the vibration dampning, it took some sound issues out of the speakers. gave me a more solid cabinet. i would say Dynomat would best compare to what i have. (mine is .5" thick, not sure how think dynomat gets).