TNRabbit

I recommend a used Peavey Combo 300 from ebay or craigslist. You can pick them up periodically for around $100. They have TONS of guts & lots of sound shaping built in.I've purchased 3 off ebay & they were all great. Just bid accordingly if the speaker is fried. You can get replacement baskets for the 300 speakers (15" Black Widow 4 ohm) for less than $100.

If you want multi-disc options, the Oppo is HARD to beat for the $$$

I concur; I really like mine. Two of them would be INSANE~

What is your usual maximum listening level? 100 watts rms into Klipsch speakers is LOUD! You would hear audible strain from the amp as you reach it's limits. Unless you're blasting it, you should be fine. THAT SAID, I personally prefer to have MORE power than the speakers will accept to allow for short, quick transients & avoid taxing the amp. An additional 50 watts in your setup would only account for less than 2 decibels additional output...

If they're right by your head, you should not have any problems.... []

I agree with Bill H.; Emotiva, Outlaw Audio, Denon, Sunfire...any of these would best a Yamaha...

Why not try it both ways? You should be ok in parallel but some receivers have issue with 4 ohms...

For non-BluRay--Oppo 983; upscales to 1080 & is a fantastic player for a decent price ($300?) http://www.oppodigital.com/dv983h/default.asp

So what you're saying is we have to get a pair of EACH represented design to get "complete" sound/accuracy? [:|][]

What amp/AVR are you using? Why both together?

I've never heard anything about their subs, but their amps get VERY high marks from everyone I've known who's heard/had one....

Try adding a good sub to your Heresy's first. You might be surprised....

FYI: Most household circuits are 15 amp. Most vacuum cleaners draw 12-15 amps. This is WITHOUT the startup inrush! Microwaves are another high current unit that should be on their own circuit (code in many places). Avoid using these devices on your audio circuits You may have thought you were near you max with the amps, but I seriously doubt it. The MOST ASTOUNDINGLY power hungry amps will draw @1800 watts at FULL BORE (15 amps). When I get my sound room set up, I plan to run 2 30 amp circuits JUST FOR AMPS, then 2 more 20 amp circuits for everything else. This is overkill, but I'm that kinda guy. In most cases, unless you listen to your incredibly powerful amps at 90%, you can run everything off a 15 amp circuit. Otherwise, a 20 amp single circuit will do. I have a Sunfire 400x7 amp driving 4-ohm Carver AL-III speakers; the amp is fused at 1800 watts. I also run a Sunfire TG-IV processor, Carver & Sony CDPs, and a Benchmark DAC-1 digitial to analog converter, all on one 15 amp circuit I SELDOM trip the circuit breaker they are on along with a couple of lights in the room, and I listen to it LOUD on incredibly inefficient speakers.

Somebody hoping to get lucky...

I'm a HUGE proponent of Sunfire equipment; their amps are STELLAR and probably the best you'll ever hear for less than 4 times their price. You will never find a Signature amp for that kind of money, though. A 400~7 amp recently went for $1675 on ebay, the cheapest I've ever seen one. I paid $2350 almost 2 years ago for one. Someone bought a TGA-5400 (400~5) in the past few months for $1500. You can get an Ultimate Receiver these days for about $800-$1000, which is a pretty good deal. The only Sunfire amps I've seen go for less than $1k is the 300~2. Personally, you can get better subs than Sunfire for the money. If you have the space, SVS, Epik, and Elemental Design make darned good subs in the under $500-$2000 range.

The size of the Titanium diaphragm compression driver can be seen more readily if you open it up and look at the actual driver, vice the opening....

I had an RC64 on top of a LARGE Sony tube TV (34") and it would pick up static from the tube. Moved it and problem solved.

Port noise sounds like "chuffing"....is that what you're hearing?

They are KB 3.1 bookshelf speakers. I've used KB 1.1 as well. That's all the pics I have right now. Just laying in the back of a Toyota XtraCab pickup, with the sub between them...

I've had horns in my truck for years:

In that case, disregard what I said... [:#]

I had the same issue with my KLF-10s; the motorboard came loose due to incorrect gluing. You can take the speakers out to access the areas in need of re-gluing, them slight wet them & use GORILLA GLUE along all the edges. Push out of the motorboard to let the glue get in between the pieces. Then just clamp it down really good all the way around & let it sit overnight. Works like a charm; solved my problem well.

Here ya go:

Double check all your connections to the sub. A loose connection can cause this; I heard the exact same thing with a Polk sub recently & it was due to a faulty RCA connector.

I have a pair of AKG-K 701s and LOVE them. They are the best I've ever put on my head. They really need a separate amplifier, though. In fact, I'd suggest good amp regardless of which phones you end up with. I'm using mine with a BenchMark DAC-1's built-in headphone amp. http://www.akg.com/personal/K_701,pcatid,4,pid,1,_psmand,1.html