TNRabbit

That would make you an ODDITYphile...

I hooked up a QSC amp to mine that had 265 watts/ch and cranked it up pretty good. Crystal clear and plenty of bass. Over the loudness, I believe I distinctly heard them shout out to me, "Is that all you've got?" Trust me, they can handle plenty of clean power. I've run 400 watts of Sunfire amp into mine and my EARS were being punished...

Did you mean PUSHING R-83s or PUNISHING them?~?!? [H]

Let me share something different I tried recently with my Sunfire system & Carver AL-III speakers: I am now actively bi-amping (with stock AL-III crossovers still in place) my AL-IIIs through my Sunfire Theater Grand-IV preamp by running the Mains with a 150 hz crossover as small speakers out to two of my Sunfire Cinema Grand (400~7) channels and on to the RIBBONS ONLY. Then I run the Sub 2 & 3 output (below 150 hz) to two more 400~7 channels and on to the WOOFERS ONLY. I have a Klipsch RT-12d sub running off the Sub 1 output from the TG-IV which I've adjusted down -12dB from reference, crossover set at 40 hz w/ a 48 db/octave slope. I'm running the woofer outputs on the TG-IV at -3 dB from reference. I've been using this setup for about 2 weeks now and let me tell you it's INCREDIBLE how much more headroom I've gotten out of this setup (at least 6 dB). I can drive it to MUCH higher levels now with less distortion and don't blow fuses as often as I used to. I can actually feel "puffs" of air from the forward firing port of the woofers up to 15 feet away (over 20 feet with the cannons on SACD of 1812 Overture~)! Thoughts?

If your subwoofer is larger than your REFRIGERATOR, you may be an audiophile....

I have two completely separate rooms for H/T & 2 channel. the H/T is in the L/R & compromised for SAF. The 2 channel room is pretty much mine to do with....

Sorry, Larry; I was reading through this and realized I never answered you. Pics from above were my Amazing Loudspeakers (III model): Sames sytem at home (without Bob's Monoblocks, damnit!):

A SIGNIFICANT difference? In a word, no.

If you check your manual, it usually says to use specifically either the right or left LFE input if you're only using one for that very reason....

If you're connecting from the LFE/Subwooofer output, you do NOT need to split it. The R/L inputs on the sub are summed into one so it makes no damn difference!

Where have you been for the past 50 years??

Well, I meant to talk to you about your odor when you were here to visit...but I was too busy gasping for air... (I'm still lauging at the thought of someone opening a gift like that at work... that's really weird) []

I got a box of Arm & Hammer laundry detergent in "White Elephant" gift exchange at work last week...WTF?

How cheap? The Oppo 980HD is one of the best in their price range of less than $200.00.

The chances of frying a tweeter or blowing a speaker fuse are directly proportional to the amount of alcohol consumed before a listening session...

Can you not use the Coaxial Audio Digital Output from the 550 to your Sunfire & utilize the Dolby EX internal to the Sunfire for matrixed 7.1 sound??

Nice job! Gorilla glue is some tough-@$$ stuff....it'll NEVER let go.

WOW~ gone already!

You may need to set your main speakers as "SMALL" in the receiver setup to get sub output.

In response to your original question; no.

Ribbon drivers are astoundingly inefficient but dramatically satisfying.

In page 10 of your receiver owner's manual, it lists Item 15 as the subwoofer pre-out. That's what you need to be connected from...you need to go RCA from there to the LFE input on the back of the sub.

If they were 8 and are now 4, somethign is slowly frying.....

I have the RT-12d. It's a great sub, but for it's price, there are better at or below that price. Epik makes some awesome subs that retail way less than this one. That said it IS a good sub, but for it's size just doesn't dig as deep as some others.

1. Music/Drumming 2. Mountain Biking 3. R.C Planes (no, that's not mine; I only WISH it was!) 4. Working on my truck