djk

Tinsel leads can oxidize and their resistance go up. They may be replaced without a re-cone.

If he just needs a single, I have one available.

The original aluminum rolls off hard above 12.8Khz because of the poor tolerances in the gap, I don't know that the current version is any better. Like all compression drivers, the mass roll-off starts in the 3~4Khz region, and rolls off at 6dB/octave above this point, and 12dB/octave above the inductance corner, them 18dB/octave above the corner caused by the air trapped between the phase-plug and the diaphragm. http://s56.photobucket.com/user/dkleitsch/media/EVvsJBL.gif.html?sort=3&o=137 The EV DH1506 is the basis for the Klipsch KN-63, the DH2 is the closest current part.

"Is the sensitivity 100.5dB or 92.2 dB?" Two in parallel are 100.5dB/2.83V/1M. Many sensitivity figures published by Klipsch have as much as 3~4dB of 'room gain' added in. Bass Box Pro calculates the half-space reference efficiency (2Pi, or on the floor in the middle of the room) based on the T/S parameters of the driver.

"Give me CHORUS III's !!!" How about a KLF-30 II with time-offset corrected midrange (I have build several pair of such).

If they discontinue these I will have Eminence custom make them for me (I have an Eminence OEM account).

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-st305-8-12-series-ii-woofer--295-120 In Bass Box Pro these look pretty good at 100.5dB/2.83V/1M

"Like it, but no 12ax7, solution?" A 12AX7 is a dual triode, a 7199 has a triode and a pentode in the same tube (as does the 6U8A). In the Dynaco the pentode is for voltage gain, the triode is the phase-splitter.

https://d1sjrnpi226dnf.cloudfront.net/spree/attached_files/7199_6u8.pdf?1382390378

"Better yet would be four more bass cabs so you could get a 4x4 mouth." 4x really thump (and sound much better than 2x). I used to carry 12, but never hooked up more than 4x per side.

"Click and Clack were great." I always loved it when they were stalling for time and would ask (a woman) 'what color the car was' (and she would always politely answer).

I'll ask a friend in Baton Rouge if his son will do it, he would need to borrow a horn to scan.

It's a design for a midbass horn using the Beyma driver, with about twice the mouth area of a LaScala. It doesn't go any deeper than a LaScala, but is smoother because of it's larger mouth. It would probably work well in the Klipschorn and Belle, it may require a cabinet modification to fit the LaScala. It will also need a front gasket spacer for any of those. Beyma make very good drivers, I have a bunch of their 700W 12LX60. http://www.usspeaker.com/beyma%2012LX60-1.htm

I will wager that they came from the factory as KC-BR, and that the owner stained them maple.

Parallel caps go to infinity (think of the P-trap), series go to zero (JBL 4425, 30, 35, etc. networks).

Real BB has 13 plys and is 18mm thick.

"The LaScala I was made of Baltic Birch plywood.;" BB was not used in 1992, and I have never (ever) seen one made of Baltic Birch.

You could use a Heresy for the center speaker, and smaller Klipsch for the surrounds. http://s56.photobucket.com/user/dkleitsch/media/passivesurroundandcenter.gif.html?sort=3&o=175 It's not perfect, but it is very good. Some of the car stereos I set up this way won best-of-show in big IASCA competitions (International Auto Sound Challenge Association).

"Some SQ reduction or loss I'm not aware of ?" The headphone jack is the attenuated signal from the power amp (speaker) output. It is the proper level for driving a pro amplifier, I use a Sansui DB9090 in my shop to test out power amps after I repair them, it sounds quite good (although a real pre-out could be better). The fantastic sounding Yamaha A1 integrated amplifier (circa 1980) had it's pre-out connected this way (no power amp inputs). Most of the newer Yamaha home theater receivers with pre-out are also built this way.

A design I did for this driver a while back. http://s56.photobucket.com/user/dkleitsch/media/Beyma15P80Fer_zps708f7750.jpg.html?sort=3&o=9

While not the best solution, I have used the headphone jack as a pre-out in this type of situation.

Klipschorn 'B' style top section Walnut Oil, S = 1978

"If the port area is large enough to avoid chuffing, then I'd port forward to minimize the time delay/lobing with the LS bass bin mouths." Makes no sense to me. Hornresp will model port position, moving it from the front to the back shows virtually no difference (it will also show you the phase). You will need to have the speakers at least 4" out from the wall.

"you might find yourself noticing that the motor strength of an 8 ohm woofer is much stronger than its otherwise identical 4 ohm equivalent." Bl? 10, 14, 20, which is the best? 4Ω, 8Ω, 16Ω, The force factor (Bl) is the same for all three of the drivers, after you take the impedance into consideration.

"Is this common?" They are birch cabinets, those are not grain-matched.