avguytx

That M5000r is a massive, and sexy, beast for sure. That's a lot of power for Belles! ha. Well, 80wpc isn't too crazy of power on Belle's when you get down to it. Headroom, baby...

I like the Emotiva gear but I can buy Onkyo, Integra, NAD, and most anything else at dealer cost or below with knowing all the National sales managers, rep firms, dealers in a 5 state area, etc. (I also personally know about 20 Klipsch dealers so....) I haven't paid retail for any home audio (or car audio) in 30 years and won't start now. haha Employee purchase price, or dealer cost, would be less than the Emotiva gear and maybe right at what the price is for that Onkyo integrated amp (which I like) but would be a waste of a decent amplifier section since I don't need it. I'll keep using my Dynaco VTA ST-70 on the Belle's as I just built it earlier this year and it sounds outstanding on the CF-3's.

I've had my Carver C-1 for over 15 years now and I completely rebuilt it with the BillD mods that are known well on the Carver forum. It sounds great and is dead quiet, but, I believe I'm ready to get into something new. I was the Onkyo/Integra rep for 9 years for OK, AR and north Texas so I've been in good with the National Sales manager for a long time plus know the COO of the distributor that covers the southern 5 state territory. I've had my eye on the Onkyo P3000R for quite some time as it's loaded with digital inputs (USB, 2 each of Optical and Coax, plus ABS/EBU) and a host of analog inputs as well. Oh, and it has remote control of course. The D/A side uses 192kHz/32-bit Burr Brown PCM1795 for each channel along with separate power supplies for digital and analog (a big toroidal transformer for the analog side). And it still has a MM Phono input for my turntable and 1200+ LP collection. Also, with my C-1 being all analog input, I have to use a separate DAC for each digital source that's tied into it; one for USB computer connection, one for PS3, and one for TV output. So it will be nice to simplify things up and have a few less wires. I had also looked at a couple of the NAD preamps as I was the rep for NAD/PSB those same years and emailed the big wig there as well. But, the C510 is all digital so it makes it hard for the phono and the C165BEE is all analog and I'm back to the same situation as I am now. So just waiting now for am email back to see what I can buy one for. Now I'll have build a new rack for my gear and whittle down some of the extra pieces that are in it that aren't being used. Oh well... https://www.onkyousa.com/Products/model.php?m=P-3000R&class=Stereo Receiver&source=prodClass

Man, that's awful you have to downsize and sell but, alas, life does happen and changes have to be made. You put a lot into these. GLWS.

That helped a lot and makes sense. The panel I was referring to was the back panel where the serial number tag is attached and on the other side of that is the ramp. Since not many fasteners (screws, staples, etc) aren't seen on assembly, hat made me wonder if it was glue blocks that were screwed to panels to hold them together....like in the bottom bass bin (the top, bottom, and sides being attached) as I can imagine that the doghouse was screwed, stapled or nailed to the outside "box". Just trying to get an idea formulated before I take off building. Thank you, sir!

Were the black back panels on the Belle's (where ramp area is) attached by glue/clamps only or were they glue/clamp/nailed in place then veneered to cover up? Were the Belle's primarily built that way in their entirety? @HDBRbuilder

I appreciate that. I've already got new K-33's, k501/K55's (not new), CT120's, and the Type AA's (need rebuilt). Also have the complete top grill section with cloth where the mid amd tweeter go. Just got to start the build.

My "Belle clones" will be using CT120's and K-55's and I've read the tweeter protection is less needed, too. Not that I'm playing at crazy levels but also not using K-77's. Might go to A-55's later. The A and AA look identical except for a steeper slope crossover for the tweeter and the protection circuit. But there's more to it of course.

I ordered some of the Russian MBGO paper in oil caps from the seller on e b a y. I ordered (6) that are "matched" at 2.06uf each and (2) 10uf that are a matched pair at 10.9uf. The 10's with a pair of 2's will give he the 13uf rating for the mid. For $37 shipped, it's no sweat off my brow to give them a listen and see what they do.

I saw those, too. Not a bad deal for someone close if they were looking for a project.

So is it an overkill to build cabinets out of Baltic Birch these days? Is the $50 per sheet of 4 x 8 Oak or Birch ply from the bog box lumber stores going to suffice for most jobs? I've seem some on here that appeared to have used it with decent results.

It would be something different to try and not really out a lot of money. The (4) 2uf caps are easy enough but they won't have a 13uf for mids. Guess I could get 2 more 2uf's, (2) 10uf's and maybe a pair of 1uf's and tinker with their values once tied together. Not much money. Can always go back to my Solen caps with minimal effort. I'm open to trying new things for the low cost of admission.

I just meant in terms of the 3 ratings used on the one cap in that listing description. Seems all over the place.

What's up with the +/- 5%, 10% or 20% ratings?

Here's the thread where I did internal bracing on mine (sold though).

I'd only be running a VTA ST-70 to them for as efficient as they'll be. But if a new inductor would make an SQ difference, I'd spring for that.

Having tinnitus, it's hard for me to hear major differences between capacitors these days. I can't afford to go the Jupiter caps which, I think, would cost me more than I have in all of the parts. If I'm not going high end/boutique, wouldn't Solen, ClarityCap, etc., fit the bill for the most part? I'd even spring for some AB-2's, or build them if they were noticeably better. Roy D had told me about the AB-3's but none were hiding anywhere in Hope.

I have a pair of AA's that I got with the Belle parts I bought from another member on this forum. Based on all of this, should I just stay with what they are and update the capacitors and let 'em rip? It's not that often I get to lay down on the volume throttle so it's more happy average anymore. Using a new pair of K-33's, K-55-V's, and CT-120's. @Deang and anyone else that cares to reply.

Checking e b a y would be a good option, too. They don't come up that often but will on rare occasion.

Dang. Have those been on fire?

Sooooo....where are/were they located?

If I decide to buy a new pair of AB-2's, I'll let mine go but trying to decide what route I want to take with my Belle clones...AA, A/4500...or just get AB-2's from Crites.

I believe that the Crites CT120 is the comparable tweeter to the Elliptrac with the B&C driver and not the 125. I think it's the same actual B&C driver but different horn. I've got the CT120's but deliberated myself. Both will do an awesome job.

What length? Maybe 1"? 1.25"? I need to measure the thickness of the K-33 frame.

I was going to go ahead and order the woofer bolts for my Belle clones as I'm hoping to get started on them soon. My mother passed away back in late January and my wife and I, along with my best friend and his wife, have spent the last 10+ weekends totally redoing the inside of her house from ceiling to floors to get ready for selling. That project is almost done and I'll finally have time to start on my Belle's. I've already got a new pair of never used K-33's, K501/K-55's, and CT120 tweeters, Type A crossovers that I can update to A's, AA's or A/4500's, and the upper top hat grill section. I was just trying to finalize the woofer mount parts and have them in the barn ready to go since the doghouse is put together with the woofer cutout and bolting hardware done before assembly. I still ponder on going 2-way using a K-510 horn or the Fatial setup. Not 100% on it all yet. But the K-510 route is a little pricey for me unless I can find a dealer from my days of being a rep in A/V that can get me some for cost. What have you guys used that built Belle's, LS's, and Khorns? I'm figuring I'll use all of the mounting holes "just because".