The Dude

There are different variations of this, you could just use nuts and washers sandwiching the pieces of plywood which would make it easier to adjust. I even had some 1/2" thick glass but I couldn't get it cut like I wanted to plus it was all scratched up so I scraped it. I like how mapleshade uses some sort of brass adjuster nut but I don't know were to find anything like that. Good luck.

maybe this a better pic.

Check out my rack in my avatar, its 4 pieces of granite with 4 5/8 all thread, and pvc pipe in between as spacers cut to size. I am thinking of making another like this with 3/4" plywood or maybe some sacared purple heart wood i have to find a use for some of this but someday I will.

Ginger on the right Bandit on the left

While your cleaning out the loot, look in his fridge to see if there is any meatloaf. Since I moved out of mom and pops I haven't had any in a while.

Oldmako, I had that sub a couple of years ago it was a great sub I had it in 11x22 room and it shooked me pretty good. Now like you said a low book shelve or some sort of a entertainment center will hide all of that and really tie the room together.

What about Onkyo aren't they pretty much the same as integra maybe not as good build quality. But maybe a little cheaper, also what about some other brands such as Rotel, or even Mcintosh which seems would be really expensive.

I miss the bud bowl.

I have noticed that some recievers with pre amp outs don't have 12 volt triggers, Does this mean I have to get up and turn the power amp on everytime. Is there a different accessary that will do it for me. I have a Harman/Kardon avr 247 and Emotiva upa-5 thanks Nick

Gary, glad to see you up and running. You have to enjoy those time capsals that those kids left on the foundation. When ever I build up walls in a house, I like to leave something like a pop can or at least a date for a little fun. Thanks for the photos and keep'em coming. Nick

Gary, Thanks for your time and all your response, I don't think I will modify the 53. Maybe someday if I come across another clone, or make my own I will try it. Thanks Nick

To do it properly wouldn't you have to extend them out to the 25" from were the grill would be. If this is true hmm now I am thinking were my shorter wall off of the corner is, if I were to do this it would extend past and cover up the window that ends that wall I guess I would have to see how it looks. If I didn't do the full 25" extension how would it sound either way with or with out. I guess it might be the same, then I would have to sell the corners. Decision decisions. Now to some other points, one of Khorns is a very good clone that I wouldn't mind do this to. Now the collector in me finds it hard to do it to my factory 53'. Though I don't ever plan on selling them. I guess I will start with reinforcing the corners and go from there I can always add the backs later If I choose to do so. Thanks for the info Gary, you do some nice work. Nick

Dude thats cool, why didnt make one back in the sixties and seventies whem they were popular. Also I think it would even cooler if you could put your own avr or reciever in there or like someone said a spot for a turn table. Now I have to decide either save my pennies for one these or the leg lamp for my dad. Probably a big price difference bit I have a year to save.

Coming back to the this thread, as I recently came into the Khorn world, and a fellow member was over a couple of weeks ago telling me how much it made a difference with closing the backs in. Plus you didn't have to deal with trying to get the corners tight and sealed. One of the problems I have is that one of my walls is only 2-3 feet long not the appropriate distance for a solid corner. But I will be adding some reinforced corners since it will be new construction. What do You guys think, just enforce the corners or close in the backs. If closing the backs in, any good threads how to do it properly. Thanks Nick

Just out of curiosity on the diy note, I always thought that the panels had to have 2 inches of space be hind them to trap the air to work properly. Nick

Parts express had some panels on sale, I don't how good they are but for the price they could be all rights.

Drwho, I love your explanation. The only thing I like about mapleshade is their brass footer and only cause they look nice I wouldn't pay for them I just have a machinist buddy make some. The Avengers is supposed to come out I think May 4th of this year, I would think we would get one more Thor movie. To explain how he is able to return to Earth, also maybe some more explanation on Hawkeye and his come abouts. Wheres comic book guy he should now more about this,.

A avr is your best bet, something with 2 zones then you can get rid of the luxman. Most 2 zone avrs have 2 remotes one for each room, a IR remote spot upstairs will give you control for one system in 2 rooms some of them have powered 2nd zone some you have to have a external amp which isn't a bad idea. Now if you go this route then you'll be wanting a center channel and surrounds and sub for that room downstairs were the tv is, this is were the upgrade bug will bite so keep it simple don't get over whelmed. The possibilities have gotten endless these days with home audio, you can customize your whole house if you want. Have fun if you have any questions there are plenty of threads, forums around here with lots of knowledge to help you spend your money, I mean help you along your journey.[] duder

thanks Tom nice pics, Why wasn't the old one removed, I guess I see how to do it. I just need to know the how to figure the specs such as what are the specs of the old rectifier, and how to figure what I need resistors. I hope to be able to get my 299 polished up like that it is very nice. Nick

I read some were that Audiovox started in the U.S., and that is what they want to get back to is making stuff in the U.S. Is it all so true that Audiovox owns Acoustic Research so it sounds like they wanted to get to the higher end of things. From the sound of things sounds like they are off to a good start and hopefully continue that way. At first I dreaded the news like others the more I read and see and seems to be a good thing.

I set here wondering what I should do with a NAD receiver I bought used about almost 2 years ago. The power light comes on but no display. I had taken off the cover to see if there was a blown fuse or something simple that could be fixed but nothing in plain site. So of course I started to look around on the world wide web for any info. Seems like a lot of NAD products of problems in general, from what I have read that the audio quality is all there but the build quality isn't. I even read how NAD at one time sold there company fairly cheap, not that this has anything to do with their build quality but maybe it does. One of the reasons I decided to try NAD is for the fact that I have a couple of buddies who own their power envelope amplifiers and have had good luck with them but they are older amps. I guess what I am getting at is I need to read more reviews on product before I purchase, and I think its time to just let this receiver go. I even found a company on line that repairs NAD products do to their power soldering technic which seems to be the most case in most of the problems but when you scroll down to the pricing for the t series they won't even work on them do to them having way to many problems. So next time you think you might try a product because some people you know have had good luck do some intense research so you don't waste your money(yea yea I know this is a common practice) I am not mad at anything I didn't pay much for the unit and it was fun to try, but back to my Harman/Kardon. Duder

I have been going through replaceing some of the caps on a broken down HH Scott I pick up a while back so far with just the rectifier tube in I got it to light up and the 2 led lights on the front to come on. Before I continue I would like to replace the selenium rectifier. I have read some were that once replaced with a better more efficent rectifier I would need a resistor to drop the load. 1st question how do I know the values of the rectifier, according to the schematic alls it says is something about -55v next to it. 2nd how can i figure what I need for a resistor. 3rd the extend Scott manual talks about needinga oscilliscope to set the bias is this necessary or is there a way around this. Thanks Nick

You might want to make sure the cart connections are good and tight, for a low price you can easliy replace the rca connections on the player. I had to do this to my 166 mk2 havent had a problem since even used some cheapos from a local hard ware store. Good luck I know it will sound great once the problem is gone.

I forgot to say, Bob did a excellent job on these risers well worth the money I don't think you could build with time and money for that price.

These were my first Kipsch speakers, a local forum member got me into Klipsch about 8 years or so ago. After searching and finding a pair of Heresies in Seattle at the time, I had a buddy of mine ship them to me and when recieved they had damaged corners. I haven't done anything with the corners yet but long term is to get them veneered with some nice Lacewood. But, I would like to especially thank Mr. Crites and family for the risers, and new caps. I had a tweeter blown, after taking everything apart I found numours things wrong. Looks like someone some how got the diagram in backwards and the mid driver was wired backwards, with the crossovers replaced and the tweeter diaphragm replaced wow what a difference. I am glad when I bought a diagram locally a while back I bought 2 good thing. Heres a pic with the new risers, later on I will get every thing reveneered.