Eskimo1

For $5k, imagine what you could DIY.. or even if (like me who has no wood skills), you hired someone to make the enclosure.. I won't say anything bad about it though..

I have an XM Direct setup in my car (It's hard-wired through the Ai-Net, not the tuner), which has a pretty good audio system in it and is quite revealing. To my ears, the SQ is about 112-128kbps MP3 quality - Only good IMO for casual / background listening. Haven't tried listening to the Dish sat channels in the HT.. gimme a sec..

The H-K AVR 254 & 354 I've been using have nice features and a good sound IMO. (Skip the 354, not worth the money)

IMO, it can look nice. My neighbor has a drop ceiling that I REALLY had to look closely at to even tell it wasn't a regular ceiling. Each tile is made to look like several smaller tiles.. It really blew me away...

I would not recommend the Crown Xti after seeing the test of one on AVS.. The Emo XPA-3 will make those speakers come ALIVE!!

I remember reading more than once that people preferred 2 rear surrounds over a single, even when the signal was truly mono.. something about blending better.

"on end"...meaning.. the 60° edge horizontal (like in the L/R speakers), or vertical (like the KLF-C7)?

If you're sure you'll never be playing games, something like the Sony S350 would work just fine IMO, and be quite a bit cheaper...

It was a delay in the chipsets that caused the delay, not Emotiva.. Still frustrating, and when I have to return my AVR in 2 weeks, it'll be going through some serious withdrawls without a processor!!

They have a 30-day home trial - you could give it a shot with no risk... Think about it this way - If you noticed a difference between different models in the same line, don't you think you'd notice a difference when you step up to a true amplifier? Another thing I like is that the amp is a "permanent" piece of gear - it's not like an AVR hat'll be outdated in a few years..

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I've been wondering.. On the KLF-C7, Klipsch chose to vertically orient the horn, as opposed to horizontally, like on the mains. I'm trying to figure out why they would do this.. Was it: 1- They figured people weren't going to angle the speaker properly, so they needed the wider dispersion vertically? 2- Trying to "anchor" the sound to the middle by reducing the horizontal dispersion? 3- A concession to try and keep this relatively large speaker more compact? (I hope not) I think the horizontal orientation (like was done on these KLF-30's) is best if for nothing more than keeping the interaction with the ceiling and floor to a minimum, but again, my curiousity is making me wonder why Klipsch did what they did...

As has been said, the KLF-C7 and KSP-S6 are the best center/surround combo for the KLF-20's. For amplification, my speakers have never sounded so good as they do now, with the outboard amplifier, and my last receiver had a damn good amp section. Receivers just can't do what a real amplifier can..

Glad to see the Emo lineup getting some love here.. It's a great combination!

So this had me thinking.. On the KLF-C7, the horn is mounted sideways, long edge vertically. On the KLF-center builds, folks had always oriented the mid and tweeter horn long edge horizontally, as they are in the mains. So... did Klipsch do this on the C7 because: 1: They were trying to keep the size of the already large speaker as small as possible, sacrificing sound quality 2: They realized that many people wouldn't spend the time to properly angle the speaker properly, so they oriented the horn how they did for a better vertical dispersion? 3: They didn't care about the interaction with the floor and ceiling and just liked how it looked? Not that I disagree on the proper orientation, just wondering why Klipsch did what they did...

1440p is coming... But there's already a projector that's something along the lines of 4,000x2,000 pixels, and it upconverts 1080p. Course, it's around $75K if I remember right.

stayonline.com is where I got mine, but they're certainly not the only game in town. If you're plugging into a standard outlet, you'll need to go to the "15 amp straight blade" cords, then to the 5-15P to C13 section. Something like these: http://www.stayonline.com/5-15-c13-15-amp-power-cords.aspx

The Outlaw 200x5 is $1350, basically double the XPA-5's price.. that's not "a little bit more" in my book. I agree with you on the power cord, but I had already spent the $7 on a 14ga. cord before my XPA arrived. As for the finish - I thought the Outlaw's looked quite bland, but that's just my opinion.

I *much* prefer DTS over DD, if it can't be had in lossless.. I'd agree, DTS-ES is about the best of the lossy codecs

Get a better shielded cable. Try bluejeanscable.com

I'm surprised they left out the testing of something else - dynamic range. That's where I've noticed the biggest change between a 448kbps DD track, DTS, and something lossless like TrueHD.

When you view a speaker on the website, there are "related products", and those would be the ones that Klipsch feels will Timbre-match - I haven't seen any other chart.. Your previous post about the white noise sounding the same is a good one... I was having a hard time describing it..

Save your $300 and go with the AVR254 - The only real difference is the Ipod dock and a very modest increase in power, and the ipod interface is pathetic. I've had both.

I did the research on this also -for some reason Klipsch decided to vertically orient the horn on the KLF-C7, presumably because most people wouldn't angle the cabinet up or down towards the listene? I'd really like to find out their logic behind this. Anyway, the KLF-30 center thread has exactly what you need!

I figured you're just being funny, but a good sub will compliment the mains, not overpower them.. []

Typically, the timbre-matching speakers are those from the same line, i.e. the Icon line. dB sensitivity isn't a measure at all of how a speaker will sound. Timbre-matched basically just means that something played through the center will sound the same as it will being played through the L&R. None of the "normal" specs can tell you if it will timbre-matc, so it's a safe bet to stick with something in the same product line..