Bacek

Don't know if old wood but "fresh" brich is rather white, probably even whiter than maple. Fine sanded it has almost pearly look.

Unless yours will breake too:) Any way mine arrived. Didn't hand a time to unpack it. But if it will confirm it's value, I'll probably buy 3 more.

So if user uses this amp close to it,s maximum specs and it brakes it's stupid user fault? This is design fault. They wanted to hide fppb circut topology under wrongly designed for temperatur dispation box period. Nowhere in the manual there is notice that you should use it only with high efficiency speakers and with maximum 5w power.

I was never repairing any of my cars on warranty. Conclusion is: cars never brake on warranty, only users brake them?

The problem is not in "power" part but in feedback circut, users where raising heating issues on that part even on standbay. Saying that I just ordered PA5 II to hear what the fuzz is all about.

Check if drivers are same type in each box (assuming pictures show internals of single speaker) For sure you can check resistance of each driver with omometer. I if any driver is dad you should actually be able to hear it but if you are not familiar with Heresies or in heat of negotiations you can miss it.

For the noise figures this looks much better.

Are you sure? I looks more like MM sensitivity not an MC. For most vintage MM stages it's usually around 2.5mV. Do you have gain parameter for this pre? What pre is that?

Ok, Thanks. I'm running mine on six channel Rotel RB-976mk2 but I'm ready for the change. For noise figures (and thd) I was looking here Aiyima A07 audiosciencereview 1 Topping PA3 audiosciencereview 2 Topping PA5 II audiosciencereview 3

From mesurements it looks worse then Aiyima. Maybe it's matter of La Scalas higher efficiency.

As I would need four of them so Benchmark is way out of my budget range. I was looking on Topping RA3 for a moment but then looks like they have huge failing rate. PA5 II looks promising, and they fixed with it issue which was in RA3.

Ok but at listening point or ear close to the driver?

What is noise level on tweeters and squakers with those?

And to save yourself additional trouble of adjusting levels it's better to use 6 identical channels or all same amplifiers (3 stereo).

My vote is #3. Danish oil can be applied in multiple coats. More coats more glossy and "richer" effect it will have.

Those are tweeters but not for the La Scala https://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/klipsch-rf82-rf62-rb81-rb61-rs62-sii-tweeter/ And for the rest of your issues, pictures (of backs and disassembled backs) will tell much more than the description

As this is no longer modifications forum and mostly restorations so I would say. Did you heard KHorns anywhere and you know they are off? For a start I would play some time and freeze some drastic mods. Of course would be good to check if you have original drivers inside. People (including me) got those speakers with mixed tweeters (round and square version) or could be case when diaphragm of one was replaced (after some failure) with some poor quality aftermarket one. 1. Room treatment is always welcome regardless of speakers 2. Try full solid state setup, skip tube preamp for some tests. 3. Leave midrange alone, this is really nice driver. If it has black/plastic cap so it's K55M. In this case test if this cap is not loose. There where cases when glue was bad on those and vocals sounded strange. 4. As AK-2 and AK-3 are not so different when it comes to tweeter, update squeaker and tweeter capacitors to mylar kind. Probably you could convert but then you will need new coil for midrange part. Not sure if we have DCR of it documented in here. Then play them more to learn how they sound. If this not enough for you then ask question on Klipsch Korner.

Ok so pros. And are there any cons?

So it's k55m and originally it came with some version of ak- crossover Is ot worth to go back to ak-3? I don't know. But this midrange was not usually used with a or aa. And this A crossover is original or also upgraded to non Klipsch parts?

What do you meant by upgraded x-over? What you exactly did. Why did you replaced woofers? Before "immediately" anything I would first listen to them to learn how they sound.

Do we know if this gain is controlled in analog or digital domain?

Ok so my mistake I have assumed that HF means HF and not everything above the lows. So I would say they are not needed as basically any amp (even power amps) have attenuator knob and you can just attenuate "louder" one.

Which midrange driver you have? V with springs, V solder lugs or M? Did you also got old/original tweeters or replaced only? Maybe easier is to post some pictures of the stuff?

Sure that is a good idea especially if they are close. Exhibitions like that are not best places for critical listening sessions. And for systems where you have possibilities for adjustments on one hand that is great tool on the other hand it gives you possibility to "break" something really bad. For KHorns you cannot adjust anything and they were great with deep, firm, snapy bass. And Jubilees even on youtube sessions, trough some random microphone and headphones, they sound interesting so I assume properly set up they should be great. I guess great power comes with great responsibility.

I was coming back to that room multiple times during the day. This is setting form one point in time, and HF gain during the day was at some points higher or lower. Soundstage and dynamics where great but on the rest I could clearly hear too extensive correction.