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pzannucci

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Everything posted by pzannucci

  1. Wasn't a lot of the corrosion because of the use of Aluminum and Copper components being tied together? I would think in a plating process, it wouldn't matter. Also most connectors for speakers are coated with brass or gold where no corrosion occurs (even if you scraped down through the copper). The key is does it sound good. All cabling will sound different (slightly but different). I much prefer the Silver ETP copper I use over regular copper. Less muddy and cleaner highs. I don't think you speaker wires should start a fire unless you are pumping megawatts into them.
  2. To address the mid-range, the good part about the the design is that it uses 8" woofers crossed that low. 1800hz and lower will likely give a reasonable match in dispersion between the woofers and the horn. On the detail, since the 8" woofers are not much bigger than many mids, certainly not as big as a 10", you should get a reasonable amount of detail from them at that crossover point. Not as much as a dedicated midrange but likely very reasonable integration and likely better integration than the 3-way. The downside would be the dual woofers at that crossover in the time domain. I prefer multi-woofer'd two way crossed this high as an MTM so you get rid of the time domain issues and the mid-range is more forward. Likely since you have to raise the Quartets off the floor to ear height to get to hear the same level of detail, the RP280 sounds like the ticket. The biggest speaker I would take off the floor and have look acceptable is the Heresy. That would only be on 12" tilted stands. The Quartet doesn't seem to be the way to go when raising them.
  3. Anything that is wired into the same circuit can cause noise - sadly. All you can do is try to isolate it down. That's why I said a power conditioner may work (specifically with isolation transformer if possible). No guaranty since you have to find the offender to work to resolve it. And yes, it isn't the speakers :-) This is why people run dedicated circuits to their audio systems. Cleaner power.
  4. Oops, have found the real fan I used. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9074/fan-561/Cabcool_120mm_Component_Cooling_Fan_-_1200_RPM_USB_Powered.html?tl=g54c503&id=UYqjtHZ4 Cheap, quiet, and effective.
  5. But wouldn't the x-over only send a signal up 45hz??? and it's not like it's sounding bad or here the woofer bottom out.... see this is were I get kinda lost.... I have an under standing on how it works but when ya start talk all the "hz" stuff.... I look like lol lol MKP :-) The crossover on the Chorus 1 passes everything below I believe 600hz to the woofer. When ported speakers are used, many times for high output situations (and tuning isn't super low) they recommend filters below the port tuning because the woofer may not be very stable down there in typical instances. Usually the woofers fs is around port tuning and below that the woofer doesn't have the cabinet to load the base and put pressure on it. In theory, the 70 watts AaronB123 has should be enough but good luck on the drive that 70watts has and if it can adequately push a 4 ohm woofer. Much worse if the receiver is not spec'd to do (and be stable) with 4 ohm speakers such as the Pioneers and some others are.
  6. You might want to look here: http://www.coolerguys.com/fanbracketkits.html I have one for my equipment, very quiet and moves a fair amount of air.
  7. Sounds like you have some electrical issues or the receivers have some issues. Popping can be something like lights or refrigerator turning off and on that you wouldn't think of. A good power source with isolation transformer typically works wonders. You also don't say what else is on this circuit. That may have a bearing on the problem. The RF7s will not typically do anything like you say, particularly both. Super rare. The remote usage also indicates something picking this up (subwoofer) something....
  8. Yea.... the 15's don't move a whole lot.... they will start moving when ya put some juice to em.... The most I've ever seen my Chorus woofer's move is when I play "Tight" from INXS... playing that song with alot of power to the Chorus will get those woofer's to full x-mas.....it's crazy....it's almost like a sub-woofer there moving so much... lol lol I like watching the woofer's woof.... MKP :-) Problem is when a speaker like the Chorus has a 45hz tuning, the lower bass than the tuning makes the woofer go wild. Not a good thing.
  9. So I wouldn't be able to just him an amp to that audio out in the picture there next to the sub out? You would need to make sure it was variable out vs. pass-thu, the voltage (if a variable pre-out) high enough and of proper quality. Yamaha typically uses "pre-out" for their terminology if they wanted you to use the ports for a pre-amp for external amplification. My thought would be the front-end in the Yamaha wouldn't be up to the quality. If you really need hdmi switching, depending on your budget, a SC Pioneer Elite (lower model) would drive the Chorus's wonderfully.
  10. Wow, that tfm-75 is an absolute monster!! I hadn't been to thecarversite but I just checked it out, I'll definitely become a member of that forum as well. It's amazing how at one point I thought my little Yamaha 90 watts per channel was powerful,i can't wait to hear real power! One thing I was actually wondering, I've seen on this forum a lot of people actually using car subs and amps and stuff like that for home audio. I have a jl audio 300/2 slash 2 channel amp. Do you think it would be a good idea to try and rig that for home use, or would I be much better off just trying to find a home amp? Much better with a real home amp unless of course you have enough 12volt juice to actually push the car amp adequately. Not as easy to do as most think. Also the sound quality will likely be quite a bit different between a good 2 channel home amp and the auto amp. Second thing is you said your Yamaha didn't have enough power because the woofers barely move. Unless you are doing very deep bass (and a Chorus as any other ported speaker) will typically unload when run under the tuning frequency of the speaker. Getting lower into the frequency range, say into the tuning area, the woofers should almost appear to stop moving and the output be from the ports. Does your version of the Yamaha have actual pre-outs or the av out? It may not be putting out the appropriate voltage to be able to run an amplifier if they are variable outputs. I would suggest find a good used integrated or save your money until you can do the right job since you want video switching with a better receiver. A processor to do 4K will be a little heavy on the wallet..
  11. Better price if someone wants both the XPA-2 and XDA-1 together.
  12. Yes, the crossover thread is indispensable. Parallel though If you are looking at crossover changes or how the crossover works in the KLF-30 you will have to work against the inductance and rising impedance at crossover. That's why many use a zobel network on the woofer (mid also) so you can have more consistent impedance and not have to fight the variation of the driver along with the associated frequency response variations. Some say zobels rob power and there are extra parts cost which go way up in a multi-driver system so is justified depending on your thought process and target. I would think once you are at that area of the response where the zobel is needed, you really don't need the power since output should be tapering off. As you notice, those values are no where close to text book for say 6-8 ohms where the woofers are likely at near 825hz. Enjoy the dial in.
  13. If the creases are from playing, sounds like someone is over driving the woofers. I have had my RB5s (original model) since new, must be about 12-14 years, cones look perfect, even considering I used to cart them around to friend's houses and multiple house moves.
  14. teaman, Good idea. I never did join that forum though I may need to. I'm hoping the prices are in line with what they should be.
  15. I am looking to sell my Emotiva XDA-1 DAC and XPA-2 Gen1 Amplifier. They are both in excellent shape and with hardly any use. The XPA-2 amp comes with the original box and manual. The XDA-1 comes with original box and remote. I am missing the manual - somehow. Amp is local pickup only since it weighs in at about 75 lbs. Asking: $600 for the XPA-2 $175 for the XDA-1
  16. For sale again. I've decided it's time to part with these and an ad soon to come on an Emotiva XPA-2 along with an XDA-1, perfect but local pickup only
  17. My assumption is that being that the efficiency is fairly high and the Fs pretty low (meaning a fairly heavy cone), to get that efficiency it probably has a shorter voice coil thus the 4-5mm is likely correct. Speculation of course.
  18. I did just measure a 1036 from the KLF-20 is very similar and that is 5.8 ohms which makes sense. I would presume the K-31 being between 5.8 and 6.0 ohms.
  19. Very doubtful serial. That would lower the efficiency and Klipsch is all about efficiency. I will see if I can pull one woofer today and see if I am full of hot water. An ohm tester should get close to the Re.
  20. I would say there is the possibility that the measurements are suspect unless Bob did both woofers together and not a single woofer which makes no sense (unless testing outside of the enclosure for some reason). Notice the Re value of 3.37. If that was true, paralleling two woofers in a KLF-30 would bring the impedance down around likely 2 ohms. This would crush most amps. The sd is also possibly off since an sd of 95 would be a 13+ inch woofer. I'm not sure what happened there with the measurements but maybe the rest of the data is usable. I wish I had my woofer tester 3 available to test one of them out of my KLF-30. I many possibly try my WT2 instead.
  21. Decided to go forward with these amplifiers once again.
  22. I'd hate to ask "Why?" but why? If you are going to do high quality crossover work, knowing the impedance rating of the driver (marked on the driver). You need to measure the individual drivers to come up with the closer approximation of the drivers impedance at the crossover point to get even close to the right component values.
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