JohnA

Stay in touch and read your E-mail.

I heard it first thing this morning! Yee-Hah! Go U.S. G.I.s!

DTS is a 5.1 format that uses less compression than Dolby, so it sounds better.

You should at least spell the name correctly. Blose.

Craig, can you post a picture? I assume it works, correct? How much power output should it have? I think 15 or 20 watts would be plenty. Does it have a cabinet or cage? How cheap is dirt where you live? You can reply by e-mail if you want. I've found my disc player. It's a small DVD player that's inexpensive. Dave, I don't understand, "would you want the Shorthorn first". I want one, in decent shape. If you find one, you get first choice. If you don't want it, I'd like to have a look to see if I might.

The value of 2 caps in parallel add, so 2 fours make 8 uF. Wow, your chronology may be correct. I always thought the 500-5000 was "first" crossover, at least for the production speakers.

Generally Nikko was well thought of. I don't think the amp is a tube amp at 400 watts. I was once looking for a Nikko about that size to power my subs; I forget the model number.

Only you will know if going bi is right for you. If your speakers are made for it, you will run 2 pair of wires from the amp outputs to each speaker. The theory is high current in the bass frequencies produces a magnetic field in the speaker wire and induces current that affects the treble. With most Klipsch speakers, the power requirements are so low this effect is negligible.

Tell me more about it. I can't tell much from the picture. How much power? What sort of inputs? What tubes?

What about a Sansui Q-16? I like the look and size. Are the Tubes still available? Craig, can you doctor this one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3065330370&category=50593 Or this Bell: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3064238626&category=50593 Are the onld Bogen amps decent? All I know is their PA gear and I'm not that impressed.

I don't think it is near 50 wpc. My CA-800 was 45 wpc in Normal and 8 wpc in Class A. I'd guess 20 wpc; more than enough for most music through La Scalas.

Hey Rick, Take out one of your 500-500 crossovers and sketch out the circuit. I and others would like to see it. There are several copies of the Type A on the Forums. I can send you a copy if need be. Please do the same for your Model Hs and publish the driver complement.

Feed them with a B&K receiver. The others aren't good enough. I might try a NAD to see how it did.

I am semi-actively looking for a Shorthorn 15 for a mono system. I want to power it with a vintage mono integrated amp, but I don't know what or where to look, besides ebay. I want it to be simple and easy to use. I expect it to be a tube unit, but that is NOT required. What integrated amp would y'all suggest? In an irony not lost, the source is to be a single disc CD player, with L&R wyed to the input of the amp. A mono reciever might be acceptable, too.

I have a brother-in-law that was for the most part an only child. He says we Albrights agree louder and longer than anybody! That's where this discussion is. Having seen and heard the 2003 K-horn, Belle and La Scala, the quality of the Heritage Line is as good as ever and the sound of the K-horn is probably the best it's ever been (I'd like to spend several hours in a quiet room to be sure. :-) ). However, the Heritage line has become a tough sell at its price and with the climate in the audio*pile* industry (too cheap for the real audiofool and too much for most successful boomers). In order to survive, Klipsch, Inc. added to the product line and has created products that meet the styling desires of the current consumer. It appears they have been fabulously successful at it. That lets the company cruise comfortably and still offer the Heritage Line while, probably, making little profit from it. Most of what rtrott says is true except for, "The rumor at that point developed and spread over time that the Klipsch product no longer retained the dedication to quality and sonic refinement that Paul Klipsch was dedicated to. In other words, they started cutting corners and putting out more of a product for the masses (read: Bose)." Since meeting several of Klipsch' R&D engineers, I know that is not true. Klipsch now strives to produce the best product in the class for which it is developed. I find the RW-12, RSW-15 and RF-3s to be both amazing and satisfying. They are not necessarily intended to compete with B&Ws, but they are good sounding, useful speakers I can recommend to my friends that are not interested in $8000 K-horns, or $6000 Belles (or $10,000 B&Ws). Klipsch IS selling some less expensive speakers. Good. It means I can get parts and someday I can have a pair of new K-horns. If they weren't I'd be scrounging parts for speakers like everybody does for their Altecs.

It looks like Mikey has achieved his goal! That comparison is stunning! And now back to our regularly scheduled B-itch session ..... What if I don't believe in Tube? Am I a tubenostic?

Make sure the strength is the rod(s) exceeds the weight of the speaker by at least 4 times. I.e., 4 rods with a yield strength is 100 pounds each, in tension, can support one 100 pound speaker. Make sure your attachment methods to the building and speaker cabinet are rated at least the same. This situation would be considered "Life Safety" if it fell and hit a person.

I would NOT replace a working K-43 with a K-33. If Both K-43s have failed and you are short of money, then 2 new K-33s will cost a little more than reconing the K-43s, but they will be new. If you are using the La Scalas in a home or studio setting subistuting K-33s will be O.K., but you will not gain any performance advantage. The K-43 is a teeny bit more efficient than the K-33. A K-43 in a K-horn gives up some deep bass, but does not in a La Scala. If you are using the speakers in a club or sound reinforcement setting, you will want K-43s for their 250 watt rating (2.5x the K-33).

LOL!

Good advice from everybody else. Your system will need upgrades from the source first. I'm on my second DVD player. Look for a do it all player (DVD-A *and* SACD). Barring that, check out this Phillips player. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000066HUB/qid=1071241537/sr=1-10/ref=sr_1_10/103-0339113-7079024?v=glance&s=electronics

The DAV-A of Magnification by Yes is very well done. The rears carry crowd noise and an ocassional echo. The live cut puts you in the 5th row. This is not the total weird Yes music they sometimes produce. I like it. It is only Anderson, Howe, Squire (!) and White with a full orchestra, no keyboardist.

Anybody thinking these things do more for you than the Nigerian businessmen need only read the FAQ. http://www.cryotweaks.com/Bybee.shtml#FAQ "A wire runs through this device, extending an inch or so out from either end of the device." "the materials used in the Purifiers "speed up" electrons" "They add no capacitance, inductance , and only a small amount of resistance from the from the length of copper wire that runs through them." "In an amplifier-to-speaker connection, the absence of reactance creates an optimal signal transfer... "

The Horns are 40 x 90 degrees. That usually means the -6 dB point is at the 90 deg. extremes in the Horizontal plane. I'd angle them no more than 90 deg. apart between centerlines. This is a perfect question for the Pro Audio Sections.

In a word, YES, ALL WATTS ARE EQUAL. All Power amps are not equal. Each will respond differently to the varying impedance curve of the loudspeaker and each will behave differently when driven to clipping or when driven at microwatts that Klipsch speakers typically need. I've had receivers that run and sound pretty good until clipping and then they sound horrible and seem to take seconds to return to normal after the crescendo. Others would clip and move on as though nothing happened. One Yamaha clipped rather softly so that I was never entirely sure when it clipped. I can easily hear the difference between high and low damping factors and ususlly can hear the difference between Class A and Class AB on the one amp I had that I could switch between classes. My limited experience with highly recommended tube amps was underwhelming. The $10k Mac tube amps I heard sounded well enough in a completely unfamiliar system.

CWag, You should build a pair of crossovers like the ones that should have been in your K-horns using high quality components. Failing that, you should build a pair of Type A or Type AA using those premium components. I love Al's crossovers, but some research should be done on your squawker horn and driver to see if they are the best ones. There are a couple of designs on the Forum for Type As that have additional tweeter protection if you have powerful amps.