JohnA

Actually, ELVIS is The King! John

If you run left and right to the same, normal speaker your amp will protest and might blow a fuse, if you're lucky. John

The top of the Belle DID have at least two 2x4 braces, one on each side of the squawker to support the top. I can't remember if there was a steel plate to shield the TV. Contact Trey Cannon at 1-800-KLIPSCH. John

The Heritage Series are the original Klipsch speakers. They use exponential horns. The tractrix horn design has been around a long time, but Klipsch began using it relatively recently. You will have to special order the Heritage Series and it will be a while before they are in production again due to the drivers being unavailable. The replacements have not yet been selected. John

RMinten, The Reference Series are 2-way systems with the midrange frequencies split between the woofer and the tweeter. I'd say the woofer reproduces the most of the midrange. The Legend series has to have the midrange horn because their tweeter cannot reproduce the midrange. Neither the Legend nor the Reference series speakers have "subwoofers", just "woofers". A powered subwoofer usually has a built-in crossover that could be used to limit the deep bass sent to the speaker. I would not recommend modifying the speaker's crossover network to reduce the deep bass. John

The only "mode" I like in my ACT-3 is "Party". All 6 channels are sent a full range signal, either L, R or L+R. With Live recordings, the effect is of sitting in the middle of the Venue. The "Club" mode is O.K.; the rest are too odd sounding. For the most part, I don't use use the DSP modes. John

If your horns distorted like a bad connection, I'll bet they were bottoming out in their magnet structure. A popping or crackling sound will result. I'd back off the gain about 10 dB. John

You don't say what you're trying to correct, so It's hard to recommend a particular amp. However, I have a Parasound HCA-1000A that fits your bill and will have high damping to control the speaker, especially in the bass. It runs in Class A up to about 1.6 watts. John

K-horns and La Scalas will sound remarkably alike until you hear a bass drum or deep bass note. Then, the K-horns will move your pants legs. La Scalas can't. I have 4 La Scalas and no proper corners. John

The difference is the Promedias and Quintets are not similar in performance. From comments BobG has made, I infer the Quintets are capable of going louder and are suitable for the distances found in small rooms. The Promedias are intended for close listening and aparently cannot get as loud as the Quintets, or handle as much power. John This message has been edited by John Albright on 07-15-2001 at 12:36 PM

I've seen that picture before. Now that I know more, I wonder if the horn is long enough to be a real subwoofer. John

Jim, DON'T toss out those K-77-Ms! They can be overhauled at a good sound shop. The diaphragm is about $22 from E-V and is still available. Klipsch will overhaul them for about $77 each, I believe. NOS E-V tweeters may be obtained from Layne Audio in Nashville, TN (of course) for about $110 http://www.speakersupply.com/ Sam at Techstar in Nashville will overhaul your tweeters and ship them back to you for a reasonable price. John

Well, I hope the plastic IS cheaper. A basic tenent of engineering is that the geometry of an object (length, width, & thickness) controls its stiffness. If the material is the same, this is easy to see: a 2x4 is stiffer than a yardstick. The glass reinforced plastic frames may well be stiffer and maintain better alignment than a equal stamped steel frame. As with the floors of your house, strength is not an issue, stiffness is. You don't want your floor to feel like a trampoline and you want the stiffest woofer basket you can afford. Good engineering is the CHEAPEST full performance solution. John This message has been edited by John Albright on 07-14-2001 at 02:59 PM

Socks are fine and there will be no damage to the speaker. One of my previous speaker systems (Marantz) even suggested stuffing the port to control the bass in problem rooms and they provided a response curve with the port stuffed. I have done it to other ported speakers as well. John

T-man, Tell your dad, I'm doing just as you suggest. I run from the sub out of my pre-amp/processor to the line in of a seperate power amp and then to 2 huge passive subs. It works so well I routinely vibrate knick-knacks off of the furniture upstairs. John

There is really no such thing as a high-end cable company that doesn't overcharge for their products. The really high-end cables have much more mark-up and therefore less value than Monster products. Klipsch chose Monster because that have been using Monster wire for several years in the Heritage Line. John

Steve, Just have somebody OH that -V. You shouldn't need a new driver at all. John

Connect the LFE out to the Sub. LFE is not the same as low bass in the main channels. My Pre/Pro can send the LFE signal to the mains if I want it to, but I'm not sure all receivers can. To get the best "impact" from DVDs you need that LFE connection. John

First, I'd center everything on the TV screen, so sounds in the center sound like they are coming from the TV. As for surrounds, I liked the SS-1s I heard and they would not be too big to replace your current rears. Due to space, I'd look at the smaller WDST surrounds for your room. John

I pretty sure "S" means 1977. John

My experience with speaker cables, including Monster and hand braided CAT-5, is that above 14 guage, for 10 or 15 foot runs, there is no difference. I believe Monster Cable is 12 ga. OTOH, I have been able to hear an improvement between good and very good interconnects, but the difference was small. I define good at about $20 a pair vs. very good at about $80 a pair (I have only 1 pair at $80). The small difference may even be due to the interaction between my preamp and power amp and might not be audible on your equipment. My recommendation is to buy the best interconnects and cables you're willing to afford and later try some better ones if you just can't stand not knowing if there is a difference. John

You're looking at a Heritage speaker with a letter code for the date. If I'm not in error, S = 1977. That should be a good year for Heresies. John

Time for me to chime in, it seems. I have 2 of the older Larger Subwoofers in the vertical cabinet. Due to a past session with my air guitar, they now have a set of Mega woofers in them. Mine are powered by an Acurus A-250, capable of about 450 watts per channel into each sub (@ 4 ohms). That's not too much power. Scott, you'll eventually want to get lots more power, for the time being, it will work. I'd also recommend getting a pair of 40 of 50 Hz low-pass F-mods from Harrison Labs to use as your "electronic" crossovers and bypassing the internal crossovers. F-mods plug into the amp's inputs and the interconnect plugs into them; they're neat. 90 Hz is too high for the Chorus so you'll have a big bass hump where the two overlap. "Mr. Scott, I need more power!" Start saving for a gorilla amp, like that 555. John

The dome is a dust cap and will not affect the sound of the passive radiator. If it bothers you try pulling it out with a piece of duct tape or a straight pin (use both gently, of course). John

Olaf, A+B powering 2 pair of speakers MIGHT cause problems for SOME amps. Bi-wiring using A+B will be exactly like bi-wiring with A alone. Properly done (no shorts), bi-wiring will not change the power the amp produces, the impedance it sees, or cause any harm at all. John