moray james

I can tell you right now that 36" won't happen as Noel does not have packaging that size and shipping revolves on how the carton is packed. Folks almost never consider this and a custom pack is simply not worth it. I can tell you that you are not likely to find a better pack job for a pair of speaker stands, Noel has it down to a science.

https://www.skylanstands.com/ under my H3

looks like some sort mutant embryo face huger from an Alien movie. all kidding aside yes jumper wires with spade and or banana connectors are to be preferred to the stock flat plate factory jumpers.

if you have adhesive issues then you will (or do) have issues with both the front and the rear baffles as both are installed with the same hot melt adhesive. If you plan on taking them apart then do yourself a favor and repair both baffles all in one process and don't wait to repeat later on when the other baffle starts to make noise. You should remove the melamine from the baffles (not hard to do) at the glue joints and then you can bond with white wood glue (PVA) which will last forever and be far stronger than the original hot melt joint. You should install brace work while they are open (also remove the melamine to bond brace work). I have rebuilt two pairs of the three I have owned including swapping the vents from the rear to the front on a pair I built for my daughter while she was away at school in smaller quarters, the front vents allowed her to place them close to the walls to save space when it was at a premium. I regret that I did not flip the position of the mid and the tweeter by cutting off the top of the front baffle and flipping around as this will place the mid horn closer to your seated ear level. Hope this helps

did you check with Atlas for data on the mid driver? I found the following in 20 seconds third listing on my search for the T35 this is the T35A. https://mypicsonline.net/archive/archives.telex.com/archives/EV/Horns/EDS/T35A EDS.pdf The polars are taken with the tweeter with its long axis in the vertical position (the way it was designed to be used).

I know how you feel. I had a stroke last July and I am working on doing as little as possible to de stress as I have a massive dual jugular clot so I am taking warfarin to keep it from growing while my body slowly eats it up. I was having seizures which turned out to be caused by stress and so the dr.'s order to do as little as I can for as long as I can. Really tough to do nothing. Hang tough and look forward to getting better you will get there, summer is just around the corner.

4:30 am for me its 5:30 now! Best of luck with the shot. Only thing I can say is not for me I have a very low trust level of big Pharma and government and together they make/share billions perhaps trillions of profit at our loss.

welcome aboard.

I understand that but you could use a top quality full range driver like this for your project, place a grill over the mini Khorn cabinet and install this behind it. That is unless you want a really tiny speaker then you could get a two inch full range driver but you will not get any bass response while these play as low as my H3 do though not as loud obviously. Just so you understand that you cannot scale a horn, the desired cut off frequency will determine the physical size so a tiny Khorn or Belle won't make any bass but you can make a tiny look alike Khorn using a direct radiator rather than a horn it will look the same but the direct radiator will make bass. This tiny Tannoy DC (dual concentric,two way) driver is just a little over five inches across the frame so you have a sense of scale. With a horn loaded tweeter it is a two way which is exactly what Paul Klipsch always wanted the Khorn to be, trouble was for Paul he could never get the Khorn bass bin to go high enough to crossover to a domestically sized mid horn and so by necessity it turned into a three way design. Paul worked on the idea of a two way Khorn for decades until he and Roy Delgado came up with the Jubilee which was a two way horn system exactly what Paul had intended the Khorn to be.

how about a real life Micro Tannoy Dual concentric the Revolution series XT Mini true Dual Concentric with a unique single magnet drive for bot the (3.25") woofer and horn loaded tweeter compression driver. Superb sound. \ https://hometheaterhifi.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/tannoy-revolution-xt-8f-floor-standing-speaker-image4.jpg

Ha was I close or was I? I am now loving a pair of very well burned in Tannoy Revolution series XT Mini which are I think going to turn into my forever loudspeakers. I also have a pair of Tannoy XT6 which are larger than the mini and will play louder and lower but I am not sure I will need that as I plan to use subs and also because the XT Mini uses a 3/4" tweeter diaphragm while the XT6 (and other models in the line up all) uses a one inch tweeter diaphragm. I prefer the stage and image with the smaller tweeter diaphragm. I have been working on extracting all the level and bass extension from the XT Mini as is possible and I continue to make gains and I am most pleased even now. The first change I made was to switch the speakers operation to a sealed box using two 1 1/4" sink plugs for a couple of dollars, you loose the hump before roll off of the vent but gain about a good half octave of bass extension and you will never overdrive your speaker due to the vent unloading below its tuning frequency. I have built a custom set of stands for my XT Mini and I plan to re damp the cabinet with microfiber and upgrade the crossover parts. I am impressed with how they sound even now. I look forward to much further improvement to come. Have a great time in your RV. You may want to work on some room treatment to obtain the kind of sound quality that you have grown used to. Take care and have a Good Friday.

if you are looking for an impressive alternate listen to the anniversary issue of the Warfdale Linton.

thanks for the information. you could try installing female 1/4-20 inserts into your existing holes and then you can use standard threaded /adjustable spikes or nylon glides.

try a 1/4"-20 just a guess on my part but most footers in America are that size.

no don't block off the top area of the cabinet as I said you could place some foam on the underside of the top and then between the foam and the scattering diffraction of the horn you will scatter and damp (at the same time) any out of band lower mid coming off the woofer which finds its way up to the top of the cabinet. Your crossover is around 750 Hz so at 1500Hz those frequencies are only 12 db down in level. Keep the resonating volume as open and large as you can as that makes for a stronger resonance and you need that resonance to form a powerful resonance which will couple the woofer to the vent or passive, the stronger that resonance the more volume of air you have coupling the vent and the woofer together the better.

well if what you want to do is to catch the out of band woofer response which is a good idea then you could place a 3/4" piece of open cell foam on the bottom of the cabinet on the sides from the bottom to about 4I past the top of the woofer and on the back from the bottom up to the same height as on the sides. You might experiment with a piece to cover the top to see if that helps. The horn body and motor will act as a diffusor up in the top of the cabinet which is a good thing (so will any installed brace work). This is a good experiment for you and will help to educated your ear. You can't do anything which will cause a problem to the loudspeaker and you can back track any change that you make back to where ever you liked the sound best. Don't obscure a passive or a vent with damping or put any damping into a vent tube. You can experiment with this to learn just what it dose there is no harm other than to decrease the performance of the passive or vent. If any of your woofer or passive mounting screw holes get loose (won't tighten up) all you have to do is to get some of the flat softwood tooth picks and some white wood glue. fill the loose screw hole with white wood glue and stuff in a tooth pick or two both pre wet with glue into the screw holes let set 15 minutes then trim off any part of the then tooth pick sticking out of the hole. The screw will easily compress the wood of the tooth pick into the compressed mdf or plywood of the cabinet and the glue will soak into the surrounding wood firming it up. The glue will not bond to the screw and will be easy to remove later. Hope this helps. Happy experimenting.

just a comment. For the ongoing usefulness of any thread it is best to attach drawings or photos directly to the thread rather than including a link as links very often go dead leaving the thread missing useful information. Many search archives looking for information and it is nice when it is there to find years or decades from now.

Remember that it is the reflex vent (or a passive radiator which amounts to the same action) which damps the woofer in the cabinet. Any additional damping material is going to be in there for other reasons such as catching upper out of band response from the woofer which you don't want singing inside of the cabinet and or leaking out through the vent (here is where a passive works in your favor as it filters out some of the out or band response through the passive cone) and last to gain some apparent cabinet volume. You also want to remember that with a reflex cabinet you must have an open volume of air (with zero damping material, this applies to reflex vents as well as passive radiators) which is free to go into resonance, this is what connects the woofer to the vent so the system can work. You can have some damping on the walls but that is only going to be there to catch and diminish some of that out of band woofer response I mentioned. I hope this helps.

Bob just recently passed away rest his soul. Bob's son Michael will be happy to help you.

I'm sure other people got it.

Ok thanks. Still to me the build looks a lot better than many of the home spun diy jobs I see posted on this site from time to time. Baffle screws can be changed and counter sunk to improve visuals after the fact, that's not very much of an issue if it really bugs someone. The wood screws look to be well placed and not at all random and he used lots so this will be a solid cabinet. Given they come with parts that sell for more than stock ones would I don't think the asking price is much out of line (if lots of CW sell in this area then the asking price is going to be seen as high). I understand lots of folks don't want clones but if that is not an issue and they are well built as they seem to be lower offers could always be made citing the non original build to possibly leverage a better sale price. Remember also that lots of guys buy beaters and then refurbish them (these look pretty good as is). The market place will determine the value of these as it usually does. Should any members be close enough for an audition please let us know what you think about the fit finish and sound of these Cornwall clones.

that's good for you. Make sure that you glue the screen back over the pole piece vent hole (where it came from) or your speaker will have different characteristics from all the others.

I have no interest in these loudspeakers. I have looked at the photos and the cabinets look better than lots I see for sale used. So tell me what is it that you see that looks so bad to you? There is veneer on the edges of the cabinets, many Klipsch are raw ply edges all around, the back has veneer that's a bonus, over all it looks like a competent build to me.

1.5 volts on a tweeter is more than enough to make a clear click.

pull the quiet tweeter out and check it with a 1.5 volt battery, do a simple click test with a couple of short lengths of wire to see if the VC is ok. See what you find.