Bubo

I've had a 2205 since it was new with LaScalas the entire time. Sounds good to me and everyone else that's heard it. Keep in mind 2 watts will take your head off with 104-105db 1w 1m speakers. Whatever you are thinking about, your normal listening will be at less than .5 watt most of the time, this is the spec to look at on the amp.

Sometimes the best way to find a problem is to turn off entire circuits one at a time at the circuit breaker box until the problem goes away. Try a dimmer switch sometime with a CFL bulb, somewhere outside with a foam extinguisher handy. Turning everything off and leave just the microwave, then turn it on is a good one too. I don't have any in my home.

The question I ask myself is: Has the foam surrounding the cones on the Woofer lost its flexibility, or become too flexible over the past 35 years?? If what should be done, and if no why??

Fair deal for $1000.00 Clean them up and start using them before spending any money on them or considering any mods

Likely suspect, mastering. Psychacoustics Loudness Wars Remastering for low bit rate players like I-xxxxxx, hisssssssss and other noise added to trick the brain, also bass boosted. Quantization Error can be a problem too.

When visiting a relative, I noticed some problems with the way the house was behaving. I interviewed some electricians, read some reviews, and after my relation's wife went to work the Electrician showed up and started looking. I walked around with him, he pulled out shoddy work and mis-wiring almost everywhere he looked. His synopsis "your lucky the house didn't burn down with you in it." Six hours later the house was safe. The next day he was able to do some upgrades that my relation wanted. Not an isolated story.

The LOOP Not sure what you mean here, as yes I identified this as the Loop. Your solution of a Coax and Optical cable isolation would NOT have fixed this problem. Also these Isolation Transformers 'Break the Signal' and rely on the transformers to successfully reproduce them on the other side.... NO THANKS from me on that Solution! Actually I was suggesting it as a solution for optically isolating data signals and not power cords and outlets which is why I didn't quote or reference your post, sorry for any confusion.

Optical isolation between components always an option. http://www.amazon.com/C2G-40018-Coaxial-Toslink-Converter/dp/B0002J2MV4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1423603959&sr=1-1&keywords=coax+to+toslink http://www.amazon.com/C2G-40019-Optical-Coaxial-Converter/dp/B0002GV876/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1423603959&sr=1-2&keywords=coax+to+toslink

The LOOP

Agree I use Sheffield (almost identical, the one you mention has more modes 5.1 etc mine is 2.0), can make a copy and bring the CD to all events.

Optical Isolation http://www.amazon.com/C2G-40018-Coaxial-Toslink-Converter/dp/B0002J2MV4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1423603959&sr=1-1&keywords=coax+to+toslink http://www.amazon.com/C2G-40019-Optical-Coaxial-Converter/dp/B0002GV876/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1423603959&sr=1-2&keywords=coax+to+toslink

Wolfs Piano with voice https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Oox5S-HM74&list=PLgugWBANrQyU39SWyIM6sCIJWo-A3GBlD&index=1 Full Spectrum domination https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zK-GC5y_adg&list=PLgugWBANrQyU39SWyIM6sCIJWo-A3GBlD&index=5

Wonder how it voices with Cornscalas.

" The chart depicts fundamental frequencies of each instrument only. The violin, for instance, has overtones that go way up, theoretically all the way to 20K Hz. A boost or cut above 4K (through, maybe, 15K to 20K) will make a big difference in the sound of a violin, even though the chart doesn't go that high."

Nice chart

IMHO what you have looks fine, I had the same set up and now have B-3s sitting on top of my 1980s Perhaps something more efficient with more range if that is important. If you are happy with the current sound, Declare Victory and invest elsewhere!!

I posted this in a different thread. After doing a search of the forum, I yielded no topic labeled "grounding", so I thought I would start one. If you understand this topic or would like to understand this topic, or like me have consulted people who should understand this topic, chime away. On the chance that hum is a symptom, perhaps the problem is not properly managing grounding and shielding on the home, stereo room and system in the first place. These are my thoughts on the subject based on my reading, consulting from people who know what they are doing and realized experience. I am neither an Electrician, EE nor Attorney, consult all three before frying yourself if you are in doubt. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx There is a long thread on a sub with a hum problem on the thread listed, which has a lots and lots and lots of posts on whether or not you can or can not get fried by 110VAC. This is the link. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/154152-cheap-fix-on-ground-loop/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Copy A few thoughts: A lot of the gear that we use is high current, and it can hurt or kill depending on the person and the circumstance. If gear arrives with a 3 prong plug, use it. A lot of Vintage gear does not have a third prong, it floats (hope I am using the term correctly) Electricity wants to go to ground via the path of least resistance, which could be through (you or) another piece of gear if not wired properly. Many homes the breaker box is wired (grounded) to a water pipe in the basement. When I added 2 roof antennas, I followed the methodology of a commercial radio mast from a white paper after reviewing it with an (EE, EE, 30 year tech and lots of guys in the FM section of AK and an) electrician, by some freak occurrence it was the one who wired my house 25 years earlier. Both antennas tied together, then down 2 sides of the house to grounding rods, an additional 8 ft rod was driven into the ground next to the meter box. All three rods were tied together in a ring. Since my house has an aluminum skin, it too was on the same ground. All of my gear including the sub are on the same 15A breaker, all of the gear is plugged into good quality power distribution units that provide RF filtering, high and low voltage protection. By plugging them all into the same distribution, they are all tied to the same ground the shortest path to earth. All power cables must not be touching speaker or RCA cables etc as it could induce a signal under the right conditions. Sometimes, it's worth the $200 to get an electrician in to verify the house wiring and the box and isolate a 15 amp circuit for the stereo gear. A trip to the Emergency Room $500.........a trip to the Morgue priceless..... Better wall sockets than the crap the builders install are a few dollars each, if you are not sure read the directions and watch a few youtube videos and methodically replace every cheapo in the house, same goes for light switches. If you have a friend who knows what they are doing get them to help you do some until you are comfortable then buy them lunch somewhere. On the RCA and other cables, shielded cables are dirt cheap, there is no excuse for not using them. PCs can be very noisy, so if they are a problem connect to them via toslink aka optical isolation. Things like lamps and the CFL bulbs can cause buzz and emit RF. Spend the $60 for an RF and EMI meter and go around the house measuring everything in every mode, if cordless phones and cell phones don't give us brain tumors ........they should judging by their energy plumes. Note: The electrician I mentioned earlier who had retired and was working at Home Depot, I purchased 4 whole house surge protectors from him that day for my home and buildings, kept asking about the grounding I installed. I started to think I was missing a cue and had made a mistake, so I asked him straight up why we were going over it again. Answer: This weekend I am going to upgrade the grounding on my home, and my brothers home and add roof antennas (and whole house surge devices). On his brother's house he was also going to ground the metal roof to the grounding rods (new install) on both sides of the house. I have zero grounding issues (knock on wood) and my daughter asked me what I had done to the TV the day after we completed the grounding. I asked her why, "sharper picture, better colors, everything looks better". Verify the house wire, tie the house to earth at multiple points, tie all earth grounds together via a ring, replace all the cheapo sockets and switches, plug all of the gear into the same power distribution box APC, Monster etc........ just get a good one, and use a dedicated 15Amp outlet if possible. Upgrade the box with a whole house surge protector, $50 plus labor. It may save your Air Conditioner, furnace motor and all major appliances some day. The builders are too cheap to put them in unless forced to by code, even on million dollar new build houses.

While McIntosh does show the flag.....it is mind numbing to me ( who formerly ran marketing and trade shows at companies you have heard of, non-audio) that JBL, Klipsch, Great Plains and Yamaha don't show the flag. How much can it cost to rent a truck and put 2-3 factory reps in it and drive it to Chicago??? Set up in a listening room or at least joint market and set up a room. Have the local dealer-s provide some warm bodies to demo and take orders at show. Lets discuss it again 2015?? Yea, considering that Klipsch HQ is just a short jaunt away from Chi Town, it is rather odd, together with the fact that they just released some new products..... I will however be interested to see what those thousand dollar power cords look like!! Wonder if they'll be A/Bing them with items from Parts Express? It's common knowledge that $2000.00 power cords sound better than $1000.00 power cords, there is nothing more important than proper molecular alignment in a power cord.

This track off of Karma AB on my two systems Mac-LaScalas gets crushed by my surround THX system Pioneer VSX 21 THX, and 3 Yamaha MX-800s using relative low end Synergy speakers and a Reference RW12 sub. Pretty sure it has to do with the THX crossovers, the low damping factor of the Mac 2205 transformer coupled speakers and the missing low low end on the LaScalas. Karma is mostly synth layers and is designed for high end club systems, I think much of the sound is designed around cross over points. For example the angels don't leave the mid horns and the subs get plenty of sub specific notes..... When I have time, I'll try subbing gear to see if I can isolate it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ynbWGDBXTls&index=1&list=PLeLw437SCmZwOZPHANn3YyD-0rTULc3BN

While McIntosh does show the flag.....it is mind numbing to me ( who formerly ran marketing and trade shows at companies you have heard of, non-audio) that JBL, Klipsch, Great Plains and Yamaha don't show the flag. How much can it cost to rent a truck and put 2-3 factory reps in it and drive it to Chicago??? Set up in a listening room or at least joint market and set up a room. Have the local dealer-s provide some warm bodies to demo and take orders at show. Lets discuss it again 2015??

For any piece of gear, I would like to play some known digital music through it to effectively zero out the noise floor. It shouldn't be too hard to test the mids with female vocal (this is what I use Skylark for, then Kruass) Cymbal and piano strikes are great for testing rise and decay, and highs. Complex music like Hooverphonic Live DVD, Police Certifiable DVD, Kruass and Union Station Live DVD and Delerium's CD sonic masterpiece Karma are great for observing damping and full spectrum peddle to the metal. Crow Home live and Noemie Wolfs live to see if the emotions come through, Krausse has at least one tear-jerker on a Hundred Miles or more. My preference would be to test gear stand alone for an observed impression: life like, non fatiguing and transparent and ascribe an impression grade A B C etc.........Setting the volume with a db meter would assure a level field. I think once we have formed impressions of the gear stand alone an AB would be interesting as you can have two A pieces of gear that have different sonic signatures. Like any test, it can always be rigged by choosing the correct loading and measurements. For example: on paper modern solid state should always beat tube on damping, make the load fast and complex enough the tube should break down first etc.....

I have a friend with 30 years EE design experience that helps me with high voltage Breaker Box work. I remind him that it is lethal, and he reminds me to stand away from him, every time. Better safe than sorry!

Given that the universe of high end tube amps will be displaying at this show, is Klipsch planning on attending with the Heritage line of Speakers??? Reviewing the 2014 attendees list, Klipsch was not present. http://www.axpona.com/

Sounds interesting (any pun is purely coincidental and does not reflect the editorial opinion of this thread.....blah blah blah) Interesting that they are featuring Content too. "Expanded floors of over 125 listening rooms showcasing the finest and latest products and technologies in high-end listening equipment. The Audiophile Marketplace will feature more original and remastered recordings in multiple genres and formats, including Vinyl, CDs, hi-res computer and mobile device downloads as well as a huge selection of accessories." http://www.axpona.com/ 2015 Exhibitors list not published yet 2014 Exhibitors List: JBL, Klipsch, Great Plains and Yamaha missing in action....foolishly in my opinion. Klipsch could rent a U-Haul and attend from Indy assuming they have any of their own gear there?? McIntosh shows the flag http://www.axpona.com/exhibitors.asp?reqEvent=85

Nice pre amp, pay attention with the drivers Second this, the XDA is a pre-amp DAC combo, not and amp or integrated amp.