mustang guy

They say release date is Fall 2011. Are they selling them now?

+1 this advise. Here is a speaker wire calculator: http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwireselectorassistant.swf

I don't think you can buy sonotube in one foot increments. I guess that means you need to make 20 of these at a time.

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I have speakers I will sell you (5 of them) for $500, plus you pay actual shipping from zip code 26101. Unfortunately, they are not Klipsch, but they are in excellent shape, and are very highly regarded. They are Paradigm Cinema 220 v.3. They are roughly the size of the Klipsch speakers you are looking at, and are black with black grilles. They will come with swivel wall mounts, flush wall mounts, and the little mount that allows them to be laid down (for center speaker). This would give you the 5 of the 5.1 system (no subwoofer). If you are interested, I can send pictures. Here are the pictures from Paradigm's site: I have a smaller 5.1 system with smaller versions of the Cinema series, and the imaging for movies gaming is outstanding. Here is the website about the 220's: http://www.paradigm.com/index.php?option=com_mtree&task=viewlink&link_id=252&Itemid=2 Datasheet: http://www.paradigm.com/index.php?option=com_joomdoc&task=doc_download&gid=348&Itemid=8 I am sorry, but I have found another use for these. When I got to thinking about how much I paid, and how much they are now worth, I decided to give them to my son for his man cave for his birthday this week. I am sure he will be "happy face", as he calls it.

You stole those. N-I-C-E !!! []

Brogh, Are you intending on sending one amp signal to the frequencies above 1700 Hz, and the other amp to the frequencies below that, or were you wanting to send amp signals to the subs individually, so you can soften the bass with the push of a button? You mentioned your babies, and I don't know if you are talking about kids in the other room you don't want woke up. The sub is tuned for three woofers, so I have my doubts about the sound quality if you switch any off. If the 1700 Hz is the answer to that, consider this. It take a whole lot more power to drive a woofer than it does a tweeter. You are driving 3 woofers. The crossover in that speaker takes care of this imbalance. If I were gonna try this, I would disconnect the subs from the crossover channel A to the crossover, and channel B directly to the subs. Honestly, though, I would not do it. If you want to experiment on bi-amping, you should start out with a junk speaker. Somebody like Bob Crites could do this in his sleep. If I am wrong about this, anybody please correct me. I have thick skin. I just want Brogh to pause before he starts snipping. Hope the Denon sounds great when you get it back. Good luck...

Setting them at 40Hz is not keeping everything below 40Hz from getting to the speakers. You should set that higher. 60Hz would definitely be high enough, but 45-50 would probably do. Remember, as good as those speakers are, they are not going to reproduce low frequencies as well as a sub. That is why it was mentioned to raise them to 60Hz. Willand, his center cannot do 80Hz, as it is an 85Hz+ speaker...I looked it up . Set it at 100Hz. I don't know what your rears are. SB-20 is not familiar to me. Whatever the specs are for the rears, just add 15. Your sub at 80Hz sounds fine. Make sure you have the filter on the sub all the way up, so you don't overlap. Experiment with your settings, but I will tell you you are going to need gain on the center speaker, as it is substantially less efficient (-7db) than the left and right. All this is a starting point. Play with it. Also play with sub placements. Corners for subs offer the most gain. Perhaps the rear of the room, since the L/R speakers are so capable of low frequencies. Lastly, make sure the center speaker is actually aiming at your face when you sit down. You would be surprised in the difference!

What exact reciever do you have? There are people here with expertise with different brands. Personally, I know Onkyo and Integra brands, for instance.

You are welcome. Your apreciation is appreciated, believe me! I hope to see pictures of your progress, as I am sure everyone here is.

You should check out Ton'y's system. Here is the build site and he is using TWO Danley DST-10's! http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=876791. You can contact him via PM here: http://community.klipsch.com/members/tragusa3.aspx

Below are my recomendations. Are a perfect match for the Khorns and the LaScala. The Danley is in a different class, but both will kill LFE in movies. You will need a seperate amp for either, and don't waste time or money on a tube amp for a sub. Read about Hoffman's Iron Law if you want to find out a bit about why these things are so damn big.

The problem with these places is allow shoppers to try before they go buy somewhere else cheaper. That is a huge disadvantage. The advantage they have is having the item in hand and ready to go home with the consumer. Another disadvantage is the brick and mortar cost, not to mention the cost of labor and other overheads. With Amazon and the like, its about sending an order to a DC which is highly mechanized and geared for volume, typically being located near hubs of major carriers like FedEx and UPS. Being close to a hub makes shipments usually at most two days away if ordered early in the day. As for the repair geeks, the real geeks find jobs at places like CISCO, Microsoft, and Google. I doubt they would settle for slightly more than minimum wage cleaning porn and viri. IMO, there is simply no way they will win this battle.

I bet you are right, they made this for you, and basically never tested it. Perhaps they will port the sub for you, and call it even steven?? You didn't want a ported sub, but its better than a door stop. I hope they do the right thing. Best of luck! I'll be staying tuned.

Actually, the best improvement would be experimentation with placement, or adding an identical sub and flattening the response with two. If you corner load a sub you get a huge gain at certain frequencies.

When you are building a sealed sub, it is very important to use a driver that is suited for a sealed englosure of the volume you need. Also, any leaks will have ill effects. If you want to check for leaks, just use a low frequency test tone around 15Hz or so, and listen for hissing. Another thing; sealed subs tend to not be very good at extreme low frequencies. They are more suited for music. For LFE for movies, I like tuned port or ported subs.

Look at used Heresy speakers. They are a bit large for bookshelf, but they might be a nice change of pace. They can operate on very low signel and still put out a lot of sound. They will blow away the rb61's, but are about twice the size. Here are some that sold on ebay recently: http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-PAIR-KLIPSCH-HERESY-SPEAKERS-/160630946325?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item256659ba15 http://cgi.ebay.com/Klipsch-Heresy-Speakers-Stands-/110724134926?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item19c7ac380e http://cgi.ebay.com/KLIPSCH-HERESY-SPEAKERS-VINTAGE-/150642759102?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item23130215be http://cgi.ebay.com/Klipsch-Heresy-II-Speakers-/160630443459?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item2566520dc3 So you can see they are about the same price used as the RB61's new. And, you will never have any trouble getting your money back out of them.

Actually the Anthem MRX 300 is $999, retail. It is 80 WPC. The MRX 500 is $1500, and it is 100 WPC. The MRX, which is 120 WPC, is $2000. Who comes up with this pricing? Sheesh!

I love the Stones. Thanks for bringing to my attention. I looked this up, and there are actually two sets. One is 1964-1969, and the other is 1971-2005. I wonder where 1970 went... In any event, I will be looking into buying the newer one for sure. The only Stones vinyl I own is Tatoo You. I have many of the CD's, but I don't do CD's any more.

Welcome to the forum. Try the following link. http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=107 Mounting a binding post is pretty straight forward. Best luck

I have 2 Integra receivers I use daily. They are very good. Pre-pro is definitely better I agree. If he has a budget of $1,000, will he be able to buy a pre-pro Integra, or even pre-Integra and amp anybody else? I have been pricing the higher watt and capability pre/pro stuff, and it is about the same as Marantz stuff. I was looking at over $3,000 for a pre/pro Integra DHC40.2 and DTA70.1. I think the preamp alone was around $1500. One last thing. Look at Anthem equipment. That is what I am going to be replacing my Integra DTR 5.8 with. Anthem is part of or partnered with Paradigm. They have A/V stand alone receivers, and from what I hear, they have better amps than Integra.

This is a copy and paste from the Klipsch Herttage Reference Data v.2 file: 1957: The Heresy is introduced as a center channel for the Klipschorn. It is the first Klipsch speaker that does not require corner placement. This model utilized the K-1000 midrange horn. These are rare, and one example in the Museum in Hope is the rarest of all the Klipsch Heritage speakers. 1963: The La Scala is designed as a portable version of the Klipschorn to be used as a P.A. system for Winthrop Rockefeller's Arkansas gubernatorial campaign. Component designations were: Woofer K-33-J (Jensen), Midrange K- 400 horn and K-55-V driver (Atlas), Tweeter K-77 (Electrovoice). The KHorn just isn't good for center, and it isn't portable. Personally, LaScala would be best due to it's close efficiency to the Khorn.

Here is a picture of your cabinet: You are right about the Paradigm rear ported design not being right for this cabinet. The RC-62 will also fit that cabinet, as it is 23.5", and you have 29.84" of area. It would be perfect for this cabinet. The only thing you will need to worry about is timbre matching. The other speakers you are using, particularly the left and right channel, would likely not be a timbre match. One of the Klipsch RF series would be.

Thank you for the update and the other update, and the final clarification. I am gonna be running about 150' of something, and I was thinking about this coax way of going...

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