mustang guy

Very nice outfit. Both subs look fantastic. Very professional looking work.

Very nice indeed. Are you designing your own enclosures, or are you using plans?

http://www.svsound.com/CES2007/SVS_PCPlusSubsSheet.pdf

Looks like the SVS is more powerful. Listed as 525 watt bash amp compared to the RW,s 350. Also, the SVS goes deeper to 20 Hz compared to the RW 24. Can't find the max SPL on the SVS, but the RW is rated at 116dB. In a corner, I'd say the SVS would dominate. Not to mention the RW goes to 120 which may be better for bookshelf speakers.

This has been discussed before: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/39067/353830.aspx I remember the old Bazooka subs for cars from years past. As I remember those, they did a good job with smaller drivers, and were basically a way of saving space. I suppose that is efficiency. The most efficient subs are the folded horn subs, including the tapped horn of Danley, which can be bought in kit form for $1075. The DTS-10

and if it is REALLY dirty, just whip out the Steam Jenny!

I've attached my shop, or "man cave" as some put it. I hope the upload worked. If it did, just get Google's SketchUp program, and look inside. shop.zip

Thanks for the spoiler. Snape kills Dumbledore..... I suppose I can go ahead and fast forward to the decision now. Frankly, I'm a fan of little Miss Lauren. Since when did winning Idle ever do anything but hold back careers. Think about it, Lauren can start recording, Scotty is that record labels bee-atch for a year or two.

KG 4.2's can be bought for $300-400. Just a thought... I have a pair, and they sound great!

I suppose betting everything I own on thirteen on the roulette wheel Friday wasn't such a good idea after all... [*-)]

You forgot the third option, a wet bar... [D]

I have seen Klipsch Forte's go for $350-400 on ebay. You can probably do better on Craigslist.

Thank you for the tip. I have been putting off installing the "important Windows update" which, as it turns out, is Internat Explorer 9. I'm happy with 8.06001.18702. [^o)] For browsers, I like opera best for speed size and ease of use. There are some things that are not 100% compatible, but even those are at least 75% so. My vote is for Opera!

There is a lot of difference. Your receiver will be used best if you run the sub-rca output from the receiver to the sub and let it have all 260 watts for itself. Run your left and right fronts to the two bookshelf units. Your receiver is rated at 80 Watts per channel, and the speakers 100. That is just fine. Make sure you set the bookshelf speakers NOT full range; and they should have a high pass crossover of around 60 Hz as a start. You should set the LFE on your receiver at 110 Hz as a start.

Thank you for the lesson. I will go back and look at those charts again. In fact, I will look at a lot of charts again since I actually know something about them now. I had heard about impedence anomolies being an indication of leaks, but I never understood it. Could it also be an indication a box needs more bracing? He tuned that thing for 20Hz. I find that fascinating! I would guess the horn must be a total of either 56.45', 28.225', or 14.113', because a 20Hz wavelength is 56.45'. As for the mouth size as compared to the driver size, that is a more complex algorithm which I need a slide rule to calculate. I may have all that wrong. I am piecing all this together as I learn or figure it out.

I would love to see a horn loaded sub like the folded horn's of Bill Fitzmaurice or the tapped horns of Tom Danley's. But do it starting with some of the old patents Paul W. Klipsch was using.

I understand that in surround, the HDMI is better due to higher bandwidth. Not sure about this but I think digital optical is limited to 5.1 surround. HDMI is also superior I know because it allows intelligent communication between compliant devices. For instance, I have a TV connected to a receiver through HDMI, and when I hit the volume on the TV, it makes the receiver volume go up and down. Also, when using digital optical for the sound, you are faced with using the component inputs for the video, which are analog. Huge difference when your digital TV doesn't have to do an ADC.

Not Michael here. If you're looking to build, THIS is a sweet project. It's a 20 Hz horn in a very simple (for horns) build configuration. The recommended 15" drivers can be had for $75.00!! You could build 4 of them and only have $300.00 plus plywood and labor invested, or go nuts and build 8. Another good thing is you don't have to break the bank for amplification. Each cabinet only needs around 300 watts. Looks a lot like the DST-10 with only one driver. I wonder if he and Danley got an inspiration in the same place... I wish I knew a little more about reading those graphs. There are some I can read very well, and others that completely confuse me.

Why didn't I think of this before. Telekinesis! WILL them out! Sorry to let this thread go on and on for so long! []

I can see it now... Antique Road Show comes through town and tells you how those are the Missing Llink clubs, the Gutenberg Bible of clubs, the GRAIL of clubs, and that, though they belong in the Smithsonian on display next to the Hope diamond, they can be sold at auction for somewhere in the neighborhood of $6,000,000!

B&O was always out of reach financially for me. I know you get them now as an option in S class AMG Benzes and certain Aston Martins. I have Klipsch speakers from mid 70's through the 2000's, and the only driver I ever replaced was one tweeter on a La Scala of a speaker that had bee rode HARD and put away wet MANY times. Unless you stored those things in a closet in a leaky barn, they are probably like they were when you bought them Coyote is right. The only thing that likely needs to even be looked at is the Xover. Bob Crites sells rebuilds for them for $75 a pair.

I had a Fisher Studio Standard System in college, and loved it. It was a 100WPC stereo receiver with a dual casset deck and a turntable that could go to a specific track. I ran a pair of JVC SKS-22's from it. I wanted a pair of Heracy's, but I didnt have the funds.

I looked at what my local audio company uses for professional install, and it is type CL3 twisted pair 75 C. The CL3 is fine strand compared to CL2 and being twisted it will nullify interference as does networking cable. It looks a lot like this wire I found at audioc.com: In-Wall Speaker Wire 14/2 Hi-Strand: (UL) CL3 & FT4 Ratings meet all fire codes* 2 x 14 gauge Copper Conductors 105 Strands per Conductor Easy pull, slippery outer jacket Outer jacket marked every foot for easy measure Perfect for use with wallspeaker installation! Available in bulk lengths Price: .65 p/ft (min order 10') .55 p/ft (min order 100') $199 p/ 500' roll (only .39 p/ft!) Compare to Monster Cable 14 gauge In-Wall at .80 p/ft. and only 42 strands vs. our 105 strands! Best value and performance In-Wall cable on the market. *When installing speaker wire inside walls it must meet building and fire codes. Affordable Price - Performance at a very reasonable price. Audition the In-Wall Speaker Wire today!

That kind of glue that never dries and stays tacky would work best. If you were careful, you could use the sticky part of a small pc of some duct tape. The only fear would be that the tape might not let go even with a hair dryer. It would seem to me something between duct tape and post-it would do the trick.

Patronizing? It wasn't meant to sound that way. Grow the hell up. I took a long time to help you. I can't believe there are actually people like you. I am sorry I even tried to help somebody like you.