OO1

yep - they dont make cabs like this any more - by the way SCALAS look awesone with 2 inch risers

by the way , how did you do with removing the black paint with paint thinner - did this work out fine =

Hy Abe - this would be great and I am most definitely grateful - I would of course be willing to pay for all your expenses - kind Regards

I am interested in your old crossovers if you get a new set - I can use them to restore a CW1 pair - tx

thanks for the info - as the klipsch drivers are 4ohms if I am not mistaken -

-the removal of the MP3 player cable damaged the diaphragms on the horns , -you mention that the power was up , so my guess is that when you removed the cable , the music program stopped as well and the amp was on full power resulting in a surge in power to the horns - that surge in power is sufficient to zap the horns for sure , the crossovers at this point delivered a power transient that was way off the power handling capabilities of the horns frying the voice coil of the horns - -you will have to open the horns and inspect the diaphragm for signs of damage - take a screwdriver - remove the screws - remove the wiring connectors -unscrew the screws holding the horn to the driver -remove the diaphragm - check for a smell of burned plastic - look at the voice coil windings for apparent damage -

The HIP were made in 2 versions = the tweeter had the K77M square magnet - the mids -the K55V or K55M - in the woofer - there is the EVM12L musical instrument or the K42 from Eminence - -the KP 250 was an evolution of the HIP with twin ports at top instead of the lower one on the HIP -I prefer the HIP versus the KP250 - as the EVM12L , the K55V-M and the K77M combination is unbeatable and extremely expensive high quality components - -these are a ported Heresy cabinet versus all the home Heresy cabinets that are all non-ported - you are giving up bass but adding a lot more power handling - -the crossovers look like an AA for the scala with Zener diode tweeter protection for the precious K77M - updating the crossover to the late specs capacitors will give you an even better sound than the old caps ever did - as a matter of fact , the ESR readings of the old caps were way off even when new - -so for a win win situation- just ;like Mr Morey James said it earlier - upgrade the caps and enjoy the truly well built HIP -

I am searching for Cornwall or heresy grilles including any bare frames and some fabric - tx

yes - pics please -

tx for the info - but are these available in 4 ohms as well or only 8 ohms - BD15: top notch quality, deep bass in right Q box, reference upper bass, high efficiency, fast and devastatingly linear! I preferred it over CW1526©: absolutely Beyma 15LX60V2: deep bass, high efficiency, fast, pretty linear I preferred it over CW1526©: Yes Faital Pro 15PR-400: deep bass with good punch, highly efficient, build quality is superb. looks humble I preferred it over CW1526©: Yes

point well taken , my goal was to build a cornscala with CP-1 front dimensions with the depth of a Cornwall 1 -I have a pair of CP-1 that are using an EV18 inch woofer with no issues for several years - the motorboard was cut for the 18 inch fit -these are not driven hard and are way better at delivering bass than a 15 inch CP-1 K44E - the time alignment of the woofer -mid and tweeter is fantastic to say the least - with no mods to the crossover as well - -bass is tight - mids are very detailed and the tweeters with Crites titanium diaphragms are very smooth - you can feel the punch in your chest and all the sound is there with great presence - -a hybrid of the CP-1 and Cornwall 1 is what I want to build and should be even better balanced - it would result in a slightly bigger bass reflex enclosure and could handle more power as well - TX

By that , do you mean adding ports or venting or passive radiators etc -

Happy 2015 to all the forum members -my question is something I have been thinking of for a while - basically installing an Eminence -EV-JBL 18 inch woofer in a Cornwall -cornscala cabinet - the idea here would be to improve the low end sound - - I am wondering if that trial has already been done with sucess by another forum member - the issue here is the fact that cutting the motherboard is irreversible once done -

I am looking for anyone who can relate their experience with replacing the woofer in a cornwall to a higher end unit - made by JBL -EV - the whole for a better sound -tx

here is a thread about the specs of the k43 woofer - the rating is 400 watts power handling - 3 inch voice coil - yep the midrange is much better than a k33 - some say less bass - -https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/127390-k-43-specs/

no wonder these did not suit your needs - you should have gone with k28 woofer of the Heresy III - 4 ohms - these really rock -klipsch parts sell the kit complete - woofer - mid driver-tweeter -crossover - now that is really nice sound - balanced - good luck

got one - grey with k55v - early serial number-pristine condition -

How are you ben - the lp's are very interesting - are these still available tx

again loss of air is a problem - but you can do a lot of testing yourself and get back to us with your results - I can suggest a few ways to test the midrange drivers -here is a small list - the k55v on CW1 are the push pin type - so all you have to do is push the pins -remove the wiring and unscrew to swap the BLARING midrange driver from speaker to speaker and from the 2 crossovers and the 2 horns - A) You can unscrew one midrange driver at a time and test it on each of the 2 crossovers - that will give you the crossover test - basically you are testing to see if the driver sounds different on each crossover or not - swapping each midrange driver on the 2 midrange horns - will handle the horn testing and the gaskets - this will allow you to see if the gaskets are causing the issue - C) there are 6 screws on each k55V - make sure these are tight - do not overtighten - D) if you end up not seeing any problems with the crossovers - the gaskets - the horns - then the 4th step is to remove the 6 screws on the k55V and open the midrange driver to take a look at the diaphragm of the K55V that has the issue - nothing like seeing the internals of the diaphragm -take some time and clean the inside from dust - these 4 tests should enable you to troubleshoot the cause of the problem - again only one of the 2 drivers has an issue -so you can simply concentrate on the one that is doing the BLARING -sound - E) You can also take an ohmmeter and check the DCR - 10ohms is about right - F) make sure that all screws on the midrange horn are tight - as long as you are at it - go through all the screws of the tweeter driver and horn - midrange driver and horn - woofer screws - these speakers are 30 plus years old so that will not hurt at all to get to know the overall condition of your speakers - good luck -

I thought that Cornscalas were meant to improve the concept - They WERE good speakers...... They WERE Klipsch speakers...... They WERE AWESOME CORWALLS -

so I guess - the fit is the same gasket as the ones used in the K700 horns - thank you Moray

Does anyone know if the k1000 horn for the Shorthorn and early Cornwall had a gasket - or was it originally installed whithout one - - my K1000 horns that I have with very early serial numbered K55V dont have any gaskets at all - - so I am curious at to whether one is needed -

pm sent

just by curiousity - how do you crack k401 horns - I have several of the k400 in my scalas - is the k401 fragile - or is this simply an accident - I just was about to purchase a pair - maybe I should stick to the older alloy horn - but they are scarse - tx

I cant imagine how fantastic these speakers mustbe - the triple woofer setup and the Oris horn on top - it is like a sound magnifier - playng a movie soundtrack must be awesome - I 'm sure you could hear a pin drop -