Marvel

The distance between the two woofers at the frequencies they operate in will not cause appreciable comb filtering either. You will have better horizintal imaging with the woofers and horns in a vertical alignment. Vertical imaging will be a bit narrower. There are some formulas on how far apart the 15 inch drivers can be based on the wavelength of the highest freq. they will reproduce, but I can't locate them at the moment. It was some information I cam across on the JBL site.

This is awful, since it is making a lot of sense to me. I'll repeat and try to make clearer: No connection between Driver A and Driver B other than them being in the same box. A vibrates and makes B vibrate, generating voltage that is dropped across the resistor. Depending on the resistor, Driver B is stiffer, etc If you have a load across the VC of driver B, the counter emf will cause B to not vibrate as easily as 'no' load across the VC. As Neil said, it is like the load on a generator makes it harder to operate. In that sense, it would make driver B stiffer. Perhaps an iron core inductor would work better than a resistor, but you couldn't adjust it as easily. This would be something we should be able to test pretty easily. A speaker can work as a microphone, which generates a voltage swing. If there is counter emf from that, it would then influence how the speaker is moving. If this were in a box, changing how that speaker moves would change the tuning on the box. Clear as mud, right? Bruce

---------------- On 7/11/2005 12:59:52 PM D-MAN wrote: ---------------- On 7/9/2005 9:35:03 PM DizRotus wrote: I'm aware that most passive radiators have no voice coil. My question concerns the ability to use an active radiator as a passive radiator and tune it by varying the load across its voice coil. ---------------- I see what you're thinking, adjust the output of the active driver to control the output of the active driver to subsequently control the passive. A resistor across the active VC is not going to alter frequency (hence no tuning), only overall loudness (limits current), but seems a waste of energy and is at cross-purposes, IMO. The passive would be tuned by the overall enclosure volume to a degree. Also a tuned cavity could be put behind and coupled to the passive to tune the resonance. But aside from that, it seems to me that the passive is intimately coupled to the active driver by the shared air space in the back chamber, and the resonance of that is determined by overall volume and the active driver's parameters. DM ---------------- D-Man -- Let's try to be clearer with this: Driver A connects to the amp. Driver B is a speaker with a VC as well, but connected to a variable resistance. Driver B acts like a passive radiator, the compliance (and therefore, tuning) of which can be adjusted by varying the resistance across the VC. More resistance would put a greater load on the EMF generated by the VC, causing a stiffer compliance. Is this what we are talking about? No connection between Driver A and Driver B other than them being in the same box. A vibrates and makes B vibrate, generating voltage that is dropped across the resistor. Depending on the resistor, Driver B is stiffer, etc. Bruce

Wheelman, Check out the cheap grinders at the bottom of the page on this link: http://www.wholelattelove.com/grinder.cfm Like the $20 range. We basically make a drip coffee, so eyeballing the gind is okay with us. You recoup your investment quickly. They have directions with them. Grind a pot worth (15 seconds or so) and pour the water. Bliss! You can also spend a fortune, but we have had the same grinder for years, and it gets used every day. I think ours came free with a coffee subscription from Community Coffee. Bruce

Hi Timshe, Nikola Tesla might be able to help you out. Seriously, if you don't want to run wire to the remote location, there aren't many options. You could broadcast to another receiver, from the Denon you already have. That would involve a small transmitter on the Denon, so send the signal to the other room where another receiver would pick up the signal and amplify it. The quality, without spending lots of money, would be marginal. Might be okay, but you still need the other equipment. Wire is cheaper. Are you renting and can't make holes? If these are on the same floor, can you go under the house with the speaker wire? Of course, this means holes in the floor. OR, if the walls are regular wood studs with drywall, you could cut in a box (like outlets go in) and drill a hole as vertically as possible through the bottom plate to get under the house. Then the wire could be run that way. Requires a long drill bit, but it would still be cheaper and sound better. Bruce

For those who brew their own coffee (or tea for that matter), you should try spring water, or at the least, water without chlorine. It makes it a whole lot better.

Jan, Welcome to the forum. Erik's plans are good, although not exact. He does have all the measurements for metric instead of English units. There are some plans floating around. I assume you have email. How large can attachments be to get through your system? Bruce

Our little town of Chattanooga doesn't have that high falootin' stuff! A small coffee roaster here in town has many varieties, but the one I get from him is Ethiopian Yirgacheffe. It be slammin'! We buy free trade/shade grown coffee to grind at home, and the brands change over time. But the all important thing, as has been mentioned, is to grind it fresh for each pot. Quite some time ago, our cheap coffee maker quit, so we started using our old Melitta coffee maker. We heat water on the stove and pour it through. I also give another vote for Community Coffee. My wife grew up in Baton Rouge, and walked past the Saurage house on her way to school. Bruce

---------------- On 7/9/2005 10:22:55 PM IB Slammin wrote: ---------------- On 7/9/2005 9:50:31 PM psg wrote: Starting to look like a JBL theater speaker (also with dual 15" and horn): http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/files/JBL_4675A.jpg"> ---------------- Hardly. Not sure what I'm looking at in the photo. Above the bass bin. Is that an umbrella? Terry ---------------- Elephant cheeks horn. Only the tweeter has the babycheeks.

But Randal wasn't really crazy about it either. Wish Huebner Professional Audio Systems was still in business. Bruce

This WOULD be what you want! And they are so simple, too.

I always hated going into American TV stores. The salesmen were like vultures, and all competed with one another.

I think perhaps you should take a look at this thread: Patent thread / Sub enclosure It uses two LAB 12 speakers, does 31.5Hz at 92db 1 watt input. Size might be an issue, but this box is 41"x41"x18" They could be made to look nice. It is a Tom Danley design. If you want to go an octave lower, this won't be what you want.

Try an iso-barik mounting. You can have it almost flat to 33Hz, in a 10 cu ft cabinet. Then the drivers would be hidden and not be able to be damaged by foreign objects. You shouud still get enough high end out of them to cross over smoothly.

I have also been using FF, and have had no trouble here, even before it made it to 1.0. Something fishy is goin' on I would think. What OS are you running on the laptop?

Sheesh! I'm fallin' asleep on the job. I knew that was a two incher. I apologize for the confusion. Thanks for keeping me in line...

I think it would be a stretch to cross over that low (400). What crossover are you using? You could have a try with these Seleniums: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=264-216&DID=7 I like the JBL stuff, but these aren't bad drivers either.

Chris, Do you mean a 2426 driver? I haven't found a 2526 driver anywhere. If so, the 2426 uses a titanium diaphragm, and really shouldn't be used lower than 500Hz. Some say is is a little harsh, but hey, it's a JBL and they really make great stuff. Drops like a rock over 15K as well, but if you still use a tweeter, that isn't an issue. Bruce

---------------- On 7/7/2005 6:14:28 PM DrWho wrote: ---------------- In an ideal world the tweeters would be mounted along the symetric line going down the front of the cabinet. Is there any reason the tweeters in question couldn't be mounted on the middle of the khorn, perhaps even directly below the midrange driver? Keeping the drivers as close to each other as possible is probably one of the most important details...it can even have a large effect on the crossover design. ---------------- I was actually planning on putting a slot tweeter (like a JBL 2405) just below the mid horn on the cabinets I want to build this summer. Unfortunately, summer is going by pretty darn fast. The 2405 has a little bit better horizontal dispersion than the 'baby cheeks' 2404. Less vertical dispersion though. ...and you are right about the difference between mixing and listening for the fun of it.

While I'm typing you beat me to it! Are we sorta on the same wavelength?

Actually: Erik Forker's website

I've had mine both ways... and you can do what you want. I have read this theory from more than one source, but here is the explanation from Alesis on their bookshelf monitors (they say tweeters in): The classic studio monitor layout used to be that the tweeters be placed to the outside of a horizontally-oriented speaker. In the past, this configuration was actually beneficial in time aligning the tweeter with the woofer if the cabinets were not toed-in toward the listener. However, this configuration is highly prone to comb filtering effects if the listeners head is moved from side-to-side while mixing. This comb filtering causes the mid-to-high frequency tones to get louder, then softer, then louder again as you move your head from side-to-side, making it very confusing when trying to mix with precision. Some people still believe that stereo separation is improved with tweeters to the outside, but this is advice left over from the early days (the sixties) of stereo recordings when correct stereo often meant a complete hard right or hard left placement of an instrument (or singer). As stereo mixing techniques changed toward placing the vocalist (for example) in the center, the old tweeters-out orientation would indeed widen the image if ones head were kept in the exact center position. But this set-up proves to be very tiring, very quickly for the recording engineer. And, to others who are listening to the mix from either side of the engineer, the sound will seem to be coming primarily from the speaker closest to them.

You may want to have a look at the Selenium D405: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=264-244&DID=7 Rated 300-7k, 75 watts RMS. It has a two inch throat. D-Man is using one of their models on his corner horn. It will require making it a three-way though.

I may have more time this week. There was so much stuff stacked around these that I couldn't get to the back to have a look. The owner might really try to sell me something if I go back in. He said it wasn't a good day when I walked out not buying anything.

Michael, Our DSL was set to use PPoE when we got it. I had to set my router to never time out. You need to check in your manual for your router on how to set that. I didn't have to set anything on the modem. Our phone company tech support always tries to tell us that we MUST be using their software for it to work, but they lie! Once I set the router, our connection is as they say in their ads as "Always On!" Fortunately, we almost never have a problem with it. It has always been fiber that was cut somewhere else, or their equipment. We have often had at least seven PCs online at one time, and I never have to do anything but power up the computer and open my email or browser.