chuckears

Can I have his stars? I'm tired of being a "cool newbie".

Can I have his stars? I'm tired of being a "cool newbie". Sorry about the double post... ------------------ This message has been edited by chuckears on 01-19-2002 at 07:08 PM

Ooooh, there's a can of worms. C&S (can I call you C&S?), you are going to have people tell you basically what you just said, that wire is wire, electrons are electrons. I do not agree with these people. I do not pretend to understand the physics behind it, and am unsure if the cable-makers can express it in language that is going to make sense to you and me. What I do know is the differences I have heard with my own ears on my own system; and the most frustrating part about the cable decision making process is the fact that the audible differences are not merely listener-dependent, but they are also system-dependent, and there are so many theories flying around and SO many different solutions (copper or silver, teflon thrown in in various percentages, flat wire or thick, and on and on), it is a very tough decision to make. Ten years ago, I took my trusty 12-guage Monster Speaker Cable (Carver M200t amp - Klipsch Fortes) and cut them so I could run them through a speaker switch box. I did not realize it immediately, but I lost something in the musicality with that cut, and generally lost interest in audiophilia for several years, chalking it up to a lack of current popular music interest. About a year and a half ago, I started to get the upgrade bug, and purchased a fairly high-end amplifier (a used McCormack DNA-1, along with the McCormack TLC1 preamp. I could not bring myself the hook up this ancient decrepit Monster Cable to a $3500 amp-pre combo, so after weeks of agonizing research, I plunked down $225 for two ten foot lengths of Kimber Cable 4TC, along with 2 pairs of Nordost Solar Wind interconnects ($109-pr.), these two brands being (indirectly) recommended by Steve McCormack. I was floored by the sound I was now hearing through my Fortes (already having owned them for 12 years), and although it was slightly "bright", it mellowed out after a couple of months (yes, I support the supposition that many components and cables need a break-in period; I have heard it myself, since the only brand new components in my upgrade were the cables). Since then, I have tried an A\B\C comparison between Monster Cable, Nordost, and DH Labs Silver Sonic interconnects, and there is a very audible difference between the three. As for the speaker cable, there was a lag between the time I received the new amplifier and the Kimber Cable, so I used the old Monster temporarily, and I remember being somewhat disappointed in the outcome; a very indistinct soundstage, with sloppy bass reproduction. When I put it all together, I was very pleased. OK, I was floored. Tears came to my eyes when I listened to what I thought were familiar recordings. The disturbing prospect IS... are there other combinations of cables that would take me higher, and what would I be willing to pay for the difference; and that is something you will need to ask yourself. A word of warning... I did not like the sound of the Silver interconnects AT ALL - way too bright and harsh... I do not think it is a good combination with the very sensitive Heritage speakers.

Oops, my mistake... yes, I meant to refer to the speaker distance setting, not the phase... ------------------ Klipsch Fortes, Oiled Oak McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Adcom GCD-700 CD Player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

I am planning my HT setup, and am sitting on an extra RC-3 (well, trying to sell it, but if I don't have any luck...). My living room is arranged with the primary listening position nearly against the back wall, with no realistic way of moving this forward more than half a foot or so. Is it possible to place a rear center channel a little higher on my back wall (I have a cathedral ceiling), and firing downward towards the listening position? I am not sure if the phase adjustment would allow this sort of close placement... ------------------ Klipsch Fortes, Oiled Oak McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Adcom GCD-700 CD Player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

I cannot argue with the salient points made by the previous three posters regarding core speaker technology; I am the proud owner of some of the progeny of that research (albeit with a smaller footprint than the KHorns, LaScalas, etc.). I wonder, however, if the point could be made for the refinement in crossover technology, basically in the hidden electronics that many listeners don't even think about; surely some progress has been made in materials, wiring and such; coupled with room-specific acoustics tests to create speakers that will work well in modern households? If this hypothesis is completely unwarranted, I would be glad to hear some discussion from those who are more knowledgable than I on this subject... ------------------ Klipsch Fortes, Oiled Oak McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Adcom GCD-700 CD Player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable This message has been edited by chuckears on 01-16-2002 at 08:02 PM

In my experience, and from reading many comments from those from the different strata of audiophilia, the difference made by cables and interconnects is mostly dependant upon the caliber (high-endedness?) of the equipment you are connecting. My first receiver, an Akai 30-watt AAR22 (still using it as a tuner) is not going to allow for a revealing interpretation of your source material... my McCormack amp and preamp, however, saw amazing (to me) differences between various cables. I don't think I would settle for anything less than 12-guage for my mains and center... as for the surrounds, I have no direct experience, but I should think 12-14 guage should be fine. ------------------ Klipsch Fortes, Oiled Oak McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Adcom GCD-700 CD Player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

I hate to sound like a commercial, but I have an RC-3 listed on Audiogon right now... it's only about a year old, and in wonderful condition (still have the original box, too). It's listed at $250 + shipping, but I will give any interested Klipsch forum member free shipping... it's listed by Audiogon member "Gamgee" (that's me)... Just let me know... ------------------ Klipsch Fortes, Oiled Oak McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Adcom GCD-700 CD Player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

Sounds like a Forte or kg4; the key is the front drivers: the Forte sports a 12-inch woofer (same size as that rear-firing passive radiator) topped by a horn midrange and tweeter, whereas the kg4 has two 8-inch woofers with the horn tweeter (plus the same 12-inch passive radiator as the Forte. And if it didn't sound good, it must not have been set up properly, or the front-end components bit, or the music sucked. ------------------ Klipsch Fortes, Oiled Oak McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Adcom GCD-700 CD Player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

The older klipsch speakers are simply beautiful; the last time I was in the local dealer's store, they had the usual array of current Klipsch... your rc this, rp and rf that, all in black with their interesting copper colored drivers and Tactrix horns, but my eyes kept being drawn to the one pair of Heritage speakers (Heresy's, light oiled oak with cane grills), and I had to say out loud, "Man, those things are beautiful." This is to say nothing about the sound... ------------------ Klipsch Fortes, Oiled Oak McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Adcom GCD-700 CD Player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

Has anyone had the chance to perform an A\B comparison on the KLF-C7 (discontinued) and the RC-3 Center Channel? In the past, Klipsch recommended the KLF-C7 for use with the Fortes... I am just beginning to assemble my home theater set-up, and want to choose very carefully, since most items are going to be purchased on-line. I actually have the RC-3, but 1. Voices seem to sound a little off (as though everyone has a sore throat)- it could be the old receiver I'm using temporarily, and 2. I'm seeing good buys on the remaining stock of the C7; if it is going to sound better, I would like to grab one while I can still get the warranty. ... the other pieces I am looking at are the RS-3 surrounds and an Outlaw 1050... after that, it's the 57-inch HDTV (pending the difficult Spouse Approval), and I'm set... ------------------ Klipsch Fortes, Oiled Oak McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Adcom GCD-700 CD Player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

I have owned my Fortes for 13 years now... for the first ten, I drove them with a 120-watt Carver amplifier ( and Carver preamp). I was fairly happy with the sound (until I split my speaker cables connection by going through a switching box), then I realized that I wasn't listening to very much music, and was buying more cdroms than music cds... I had been operating under a false assumption, propagated by the deaf (and now deceased) publisher of Stereo Review, Julian Hirsch: he had written time and again in his columns and reviews that there was no discernable difference in sound between different amplifiers of roughly the same power output (I think he relied strictly on numbers, his own ears being incapable of anything like fine sonic discrimination). Fortunately, I began to develop the upgrade bug about a year and half ago, and was FLOORED when I hooked up the McCormack DNA-1. I have been so pleased with the results of a year of tweaks (including the addition of the Hsu Subwoofer, and better interconnects, Yes Virginia, they do make a difference), I have once again began to purchase more music and am wearing out the spot on the sofa where the sweet spot lies. My latest purchase of the Adcom GCD700 cd player actually proved to be a step backward... it helped me to discover the meaning of the word "fatiguing" as it applies to audio enjoyment: the sound from the player was very clear, and the output was louder than my older Sony changer, but it was hard to listen to; it was the "digital" sound I have discounted as being the product of a bunch of Old Vinyl Farts refusal to accept the new age... I have since gone back to my six year old Sony cd player, but am looking at the Ah! Njoeb Tjoeb 4000 as a possible replacement. The condensed version of this discourse is, "Yes, I agree, the front end does make a huge difference." ------------------ Klipsch Fortes, Oiled Oak McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Adcom GCD-700 CD Player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

I am also interested in the RS-3's... will a quality hollow-wall anchor suffice? My best placement option is between two wall studs... ------------------ Klipsch Fortes, Oiled Oak McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Adcom GCD-700 CD Player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

Congratulations! The Forte is a speaker that should give you a lifetime of use. As for the cable question... If the rest of your system is fairly revealing, cables (interconnect and speaker) do make a difference; what you are willing to spend to listen to and enjoy this difference is up to you. I upgraded from the old 12-guage Monster cable (which I stupidly split to run through a speaker selector box - yes, it made a huge difference) to Kimber Cable. Everything I have read about this cable indicates that it marries very well with Klipsch speakers. Of course, the other components in your system will be another determining factor. It almost seems like a crap-shoot as to what components and cables will get along together, but I think you will not go wrong with Kimber. ------------------ Klipsch Fortes, Oiled Oak McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Adcom GCD-700 CD Player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

It's been a few years since I've performed an A\B comparison of these two, but I seem to remember the Chorus as sounding a little warmer in the midrange - upper bass... I thought the Fortes sounded a little more natural. Of course, I could be slightly biased... ------------------ Klipsch Fortes, Oiled Oak McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Adcom GCD-700 CD Player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

Hey, Mike... is that a Hsu 1225 sub just in front and to the left of your left main? BTW, love that medium oak finish on your new Chorus pair... my oiled oak Fortes don't have that nice dark contrast in the grain. I'm sure it's going to sound great; it doesn't look like it will take too much wattage to fill the room. ------------------ Klipsch Fortes, Oiled Oak McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Adcom GCD-700 CD Player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

Don't know what your price range is, but McCormack amps are considered by many to be the next best thing to tube-quality. I can't claim to know how they stack up to tube amps, not having experience with tubes, but I can tell you that when I replaced my aging Carver amp with a McCormack DNA-1 (used for $1100, list price $2400), it was like angels had descended upon my house and sang the Hallelujah Chorus. And I'm an atheist. ------------------ Klipsch Fortes, Oiled Oak McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Adcom GCD-700 CD Player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

Currently in my five-disk changer: 1. Keb Mo (debut album) 2. American Beauty - Soundtrack (the score, not "Songs from...) 3. Tom Petty - "Wildflowers"(stays in most of the time) 4. R.E.M. - "Automatic for the People" 5. Mozart Piano Concertos 22 & 23 - Barenboim w\ECO (terrific performance from 1967) ------------------ McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Cheap Sony 5-disc player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Klipsch Fortes (oiled oak) Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

audiogon.com has such a service, but you have to pay for it... I haven't gone through the secure site to see what they charge. ------------------ McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Cheap Sony 5-disc player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Klipsch Fortes (oiled oak) Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

I would have to agree with the poster who suggested you add the Forte to your list of candidates: it is the only Klipsch I have owned, so I may be biased... I have listened to the Forte alongside the Chorus, and found the Forte to produce a more realistic soundstage. The Chorus seems to have a slightly more colored sound in the midrange, at least to my ears. The other great point about the Forte is its narrow footprint; it is still a dominant piece of furniture, but is smaller than the Chorus or Cornwall. Speaking of the Cornwall, I have not been blessed with hearing this particular Klipsch legend... if any proud owner of these lives near Springfield, MO, I would glady accept an invitation to drop by and give them a listen... I'll buy the sodas (you surely don't expect me to bring alcohol and drive home?) ------------------ McCormack DNA-1 Power Amp McCormack TLC Pre-Amp Cheap Sony 5-disc player NHT SA3 Subwoofer Amp Hsu TN1220 Subwoofer Klipsch Fortes (oiled oak) Old Akai cassette Deck Akai AAR22 used as tuner Nordost Solar Wind interconnects Kimber 4TC Speaker Cable

Has anyone had the chance to compare these two Klipsch classics? Owners of one or the other are near-fanatical in their devotion (I should know; I have owned and loved a pair of Fortes for 13 years). I don't remember hearing the Cornwalls... the specs for the Fortes indicate a flatter response (plus or minus 3 dB, compared to 5 dB)that goes down to 32 Hz (as opposed to 38 for the Cornwalls), but they both have the same sensitivity rating... I acknowledge that numbers are not everything, and recognize that the two probably have their own unique sound... I am just curious as to how the two compare.

Hmmm, so now I understand why the finish has been looking sickly yellow... so any idea how to clean that old oil out, and will re-staining be required? (Thanks for the previous replies, BTW).

I have been the proud owner of a pair of oiled oak Klipsch Fortes for over twelve years now. For most of that time I have used Formby's Lemon Oil. Is there a better wood oil\product available, something to set off the wood better, or to add lustre to the finish? Thanks...

I have been the proud owner of a pair of Klipsch Fortes (oiled oak)for over 12 years now... I have used Formby's Lemon Oil all that time, but am wondering if there is a better choice; something to give them more lustre?