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still looking..

just a logical suggestion to stick with the correct type & value of fuse... they make fast & slow blow fuses for a reason. funny, im "epiccf4fan", i just changed my user name awhile ago to epicklipschfan since im a fan of most all klipsch speakers, not just cf4's. & i dont recall "arguing" with you about that at all. same as with these comments, its not an argument just an exchange of ideas/opinions... but i will say the same thing, klipsch designed the speakers with a specific type & value of fuse, why would you even consider changing that based on your opinion that they dont need to be the same fuses? you're free to do what you want with your speakers/gear but myself & the majority of others choose to stick with what the manufacturer designed. same for cars or houses that use fuses, not a good idea to up the value of a fuse, just asking for trouble or fires etc. & the whole "well other speakers dont use fuses" doesnt really apply here, we're talking about k-horns that have expensive drivers & the tweeter is very fragile compared to "other speakers." as for what im doing about the MILLIONS of other speakers that DO NOT have fuses... they are either designed with different drivers such as ferro-fluid cooling, or are a stronger type of driver/voice coil than a k-horn tweeter, or handle more power, or some have resetting breakers etc etc... or as i mentioned earlier, if they are over powered the driver blows or is damaged & you get to buy a new one. or just dont overdrive them...

in for the replies. currently looking for some svs sb2000's. cant convince myself to get a klipsch sub with all the amplifier problems they can/do have.

@Khornukopia not trying to argue but curious why you say a higher than rated fuse is not dangerous? fuses have ratings for a reason, to protect the item in the circuit from a short or over power. using a higher rated fuse than designed can damage or blow the item its protecting. yes some other speakers dont have fuses... & guess what happens when you over power them or have a short? the drivers blow & you get to replace them. fuses help to prevent that from happening. klipsch designed this era K-horn with fuses for a reason, probably a good idea to use the correct rated fuse.

i would confirm what type of fuses they use, most audio gear/speakers use specific fast or slow blow fuses, standard automotive fuses may not be the right type. a higher rated fuse can be dangerous for these speakers if you listen loud, they wont blow & protect the drivers if they are higher than what should be used. the 1993 k-horn should be the AK-3 x-over so it should be easy to confirm what fuses are correct. i just sold my 94 k-horns with ak3's otherwise i would confirm for you. parts express or other places will have the right type of fuses once you verify what should be used.

id take the kg 5.5's off the 301's. if you have room put them in the rear corners of the room. stacked like that looks cool but kills the sound, lots of the mid-bass comes out of the woofers & with them up that high you arent getting all the sound at ear level, just bounces & reflects around the high area of the room.

KG 1.5 speakers are sold. KV2 center channel, nice center for smaller systems, will match the KG series speakers & sounds good with other models. SOLD located in eastern iowa.

ive only done smaller projects, never a full speaker so cant comment on the installation tips, but there are some good youtube vids & oakwood will give great advice. as for the oil vs poly... either will look good, its up to you on what you prefer. oil looks more natural & will need to be re oiled perodically for best protection. poly will last much longer & protect better from water stains etc but you will see the thin coating more than oil & if you've never applied it before it can get orange peel or bubbles. i use a foam brush & lightly sand between coats & dont shake the can, just stir it. & work in a dust free room, lint & debris will stick & show up in poly. that veneer will look great either way you do it!

sounds good to me. i think 2 of your recent chorus 2 entries were mine, thats when your numbers mentioned at the time seemed rather low, much less than ~$700. i can send you my K-horn price i just sold last week if you'd like.

i understand your points, however, the "You expect a $1000 speaker to come with a crossover and just because the owner puts another $1000 crossover into it, the value does not automatically become $2000" is not what im saying but i do agree for the most part... adding a $1000 x-over is worth a high percentage of its value, especially with the ALK name to a person looking for upgraded speakers. personally, IF i was looking for cornwall or any klipsch speaker & planned to pay for new ALK x-overs or other mods, i would gladly pay ~60-75% of their value for a good used set to save some money. same with the horns & drivers etc, you see used upgraded x-overs & drivers listed here all the time in that range of their original price... not 25% or less. my comments were mainly about your "$1200 tops" price for these nice heavily modded cornwalls, they are worth probably double that or more... to a buyer looking for that type of speaker. & i dont knock your spreadsheets at all, but have said before that the limited sales you document dont necessarily reflect the actual resale value of klipsch speakers & dont always account for condition/location/mods etc.. $378 for cornwalls is VERY rare & far from the normal used market value for them, they could have been all beat up, or a wife selling them for bottom dollar due to a divorce etc. to include that kind of sale in your averages severley sways the prices. i recall you saying chorus 2 are average of $500-600 awhile back.. yet they sell all day long for $800-1000+. in just the last couple years, prices have gone way up for klipsch heritage & vintage speakers so it's hard to judge their value based on very limited data collected over many years. quick example: i recently sold a set of k-horns that had some cosmetic issues to the veneer for $1500 because i wanted a quick sale, with a little work or $25 in black paint i could have made them look nicer & listed for $2000-2500 but waited awhile for them to sell. the $1500 will sway the averages on nicer k-horns to the low side but doesnt mean other k-horns are worth that low price. averages are nice but guessing what an upgrade or mod is worth to someone can be tricky. i deal with classic muscle cars & see people make a lot of money on restored or modified cars all the time, but then again you see people lose money too, so its hard to judge.

hard to judge somethings value on the internet or a personal opinion. & the $3000 carbon fiber hood analogy doesn't really apply here, there are way more than just "the one person in the world" that see value in vintage klipsch speakers with top level upgrades/mods. you could barely buy just the mods for the price hes asking, those alk x-overs alone probably cost close to or more than $792, add the horns & drivers plus the value of the speakers & im sure lots of people will be willing to pay that, or close to it. i agree its hard to get back what you pay for things like cars etc, but as with anything, its worth what someone will pay, & starting prices are usually negotiable. granted he may not get $3200, but i bet it would be close... & way more than "$1200 tops"

they may be overpriced but the upgrades alone probably cost twice as much as your stated average of $792, they are worth far more than $1200...

looking for a SVS sub or 2... would like a sb2000 or a pair of them. kind of limited on space so the BIG pb12/13 ultras etc wont fit in my room & are overkill for what i need. let me know if anyone has the sb2000 or know of any for sale. located in the midwest but these are small enough that shipping should be too bad. thanks & happy new year!

like he says in the ad, "its black & can be repainted." plus you can't hear scratches!

i can see that being the case... just going by what many others say about the dual phase k55v drivers. i owned 2 pairs of k-horns, one with the 55m & one 55v dual phase & to me the 55v did sound slightly "better" running on same gear, but the 55v had different x-overs than the 55m so no way to tell why the different sound.

definitely a k55-m. if its working properly theres no need to replace it... unless you want to upgrade of course!

the k55v dual phase plug are supposed to sound better than the common k55m. the new a55g are supposed to be an upgrade but ive never heard them, they get great reviews. post a pic of yours when you can & we can verify what they are.

this place has all kinds of veneers & are priced pretty good. https://www.oakwoodveneer.com/wood-veneer/

yeah if they work then no need to replace... an upgrade would be the new 55g's or other brand drivers. but if yours are indeed the 55v dual phase plug, they probably dont need an upgrade. can you post a pic of the driver to confirm what it is?

the kg subs are actually pretty decent for what they are, a low priced option to add some bass to smaller woofer speakers or others that lack bass like heresys. as mentioned, they are not a true modern sub that goes down to 20hz or lower. but then again, most music doesnt have anything below 20-25hz anyways. they also have kg powered subs, the 10-15" ones are pretty nice for an older low priced sub. as for the idle mode on powered subs, an easy way to avoid that & prolong the life of the amp is to use a power strip or surge protector with an on off switch, just turn it off when the sub wont be used for a long time... or just unplug it. i do that with my powered subs & even seperate amps when i dont use them for a week or more. or a big lightning storm is coming, cant hurt the electronics if they arent plugged in! & most the cheaper surge protectors wont stop a direct lightning hit anyways.

didn't 1982 use the k55-v dual phase plug drivers? my 1982 k-horns had the k55-v & AA x-overs. if they work ok you dont need to replace them.

Some input on the resistors... I was told by bob awhile back that replacing the resistors is not worth it as they have little if any effect on the sound. I didnt question that, was just asking his opinion... but as with anything, opinions vary. The mills resistors are a higher quality part than the cheap cast ones klipsch used so who knows if you can actually hear any difference??

i mentioned that in my first post... maybe his pre amp doesnt have treble controls or he considers that "EQ" ?

have you tried amps with a little more power? im not familiar with the first watt amps you listed but ive read they are supposed to sound very good for that first watt... but if you listen to fortes loud, like many people do, maybe an amp with more power would help. something with a solid 50-100 watts/ch should drive them closer to their power range.

just an fyi... that is not dust, looks to be some pretty heavy mold or mildew on the fronts & who knows what the insides are like. definitely stored in a very damp basement or garage. $300 seems like a decent price for the condition, if they work. he says they sound good. but he could have spent 2 minutes to at least wipe them down for pics. could probably have got a lot more out of them.