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Funny, he told me the same thing. lol I just know from experience that some people don't want others to know certain things...so I've gotten into the habit of just letting those people decide what they want to brag about. i can understand that i guess... was just curious to see if it was a member here & to see some pics. & who sells belles for $200? this has to go down as one of the best deals of the century! & i was 20 miles away. doh!

i understand that, it happens. but others posts are just free bumps for your ad. i dont think you can delete their posts, but the original title & details of the ad are still there for anyone to see. just keeps things a little cleaner to not have 3 ads for the same speakers. GLWS

why is it a secret?? i'd be proud to show my amazing score on $200 belles. seller told me i was #2 inline if the deal fell through but the "guy" was already on his way. congrats to the mystery buyer!

i assumed that, just curious who & wanted to see pics of what i missed. i'd bet on opus too, was 99% sure it was him when the seller told me the guy was from chicago & contacted him after about 30 minutes of posting the ad

x2, was wondering that myself when there was 2 threads for them, for a long time they were right next to each other. you can edit & bump the other listings. surprised these havent sold yet...

an ad popped up on craigslist late yesterday morning, i replied within 1 hour of the listing & was told someone was already on their way to get them from... "chicago" so who made a 4 hour drive to my backyard to snag these up?? anyone here? congrats on the score, you beat me by about 30 minutes! they said they were kind of "rough." got any pics??

excellent review, thanks for posting. did you do much listening/comparing of the cf-4's before the mods? curious to hear your thoughts on how the mostly stock epics compared to the k-horns.... i understand the new mid driver made a big difference in the sound, but the stock woofers are the same & are what is making the "better" bass you heard. based on that i am not surprised you liked the epics bass more than the k-horns, i understand ported enclosures technically produce more distortion than a horn loaded enclosure, but, i have read many that agree it is a better sensation of bass & thats the first thing i noticed when i "upgraded" to the k-horn. while they do sound good & on the right recordings have great chest impacting slam, but compared to the dual 12" of the epics, with good power, it just seemed like a more overall balance of the bass to mids than the k-horns had. thanks again for the review.

look good. if the pegs are original klipsch, then the spike is original too.... pull on one of the plastic caps, you will see its covering a spike. so you just lost a cap, klipsch or maybe someone here might have a spare. or if you have carpet floors &/or dont mind the spikes just pull off all the caps.

glad it made it ok. enjoy!

great deal... even without the marantz.

thanks fjd, thats what i remember seeing or something just like it way back in a stereo review magazine. the benefit of more power isnt just DB increase, having some reserve power means the amp isnt working as hard & may provide stronger bass etc at any given DB level. & will make it "easier" to drive the speaker harder or to higher volume levels. so for power hungry speakers like the chorus, or big klf's & epics etc, a bigger amp, of decent quality, will usually have better performance compared to the same quality lower power amp.

Only about 2.5 times the volume I believe it would be 4.771213 additional dB headroom using a 300 watt amp vs. using a 100 watt amp in the situation derrickdj1 is describing. You can find frequency response variations in the Heritage speakers in that range. Power ratio to dB conversionThe gain GdB is equal to 10 times base 10 logarithm of the ratio of the power P2 and thereference power P1. GdB = 10 log10(P2 / P1) P2 is the power level. P1 is the referenced power level. GdB is the power ratio or gain in dB. yeah, what he said...

what? $75?? thats an amazing deal, even if they have some cosmetic issues. what color are they? post some pics.... also not to scare you but, these kg's can have the same cabinet problems as the KLF speakers... when you get them situated, play some bass heavy music & crank them up a bit to get the woofers moving, listen close for any rattle or vibration coming from the boxes, stick your head around back too. they can be repaired somewhat easily, but worth mentioning just incase.

2.5 times the power yes, but DB levels dont increase the same amount as the power. in other words going from 100 watts to 200watts doesnt mean you get 2x the "volume" im sure others can explain it better or show a graph, but i recall reading how DB's increase based on power, & it takes a lot of extra watts to double volume, as indicated by derrickdj1's post. from what i understand anyways...

the 828 has great reviews & should be a fine AVR for you. one thing to mention is that onkyo has extended their warranty of the hdmi boards for most models, if yours craps out after the factory warranty expires you should still be covered for a free or discounted repair. shipping from the netherlands migh be expensive but they might honor a local repair if you have a shop in the area that can do it. & ive read its not that difficult to do yourself if they will send you a new board. but as mentioned i think you should be ok with the 828, sounds like onkyo fixed or greatly improved the initial hdmi problems. i have an 805 & 605 that are doing fine.... so far.

why the yelling & caps? sorry for saying its not the right product to repair fiberglass. are you actually saying, as an expert, that you use the regular ol pink bondo filler to make or repair fiberglass? must have taken a differnt auto body class than me. yes its "made of resin" however without getting all scientific, its not the same type or formulation of resins used for real fiberglass work or repair... you know, like making an automotive body panel, or a boat hull or other large item, like tea cups, with layers & layers of fiberglass matting & coating it with a much thinner clear type resin. my apologies but i disagree, you dont just use the pink bondo body filler for that & its not the CORRECT way to repair fiberglass. this shouldn't have to be explained. but yes, i will stop the rant & simple suggestion to use actual wood products on wood. Im done with this, you have a lot to learn when it comes to the fiberglass trade Grasshopper, i'll rest on Twistedcrank's response. im done too... never really started. funny how you assume what i have learned or my experience level. you are resting on assumptions if thats the case. have a good night

really?? well good for you... i call ABSOLUTE JERK on you. please elaborate on what part of my or RCB1725 suggestion/comments are BS??? Nope, Sorry, I already responded to RCB1725 in a PM! I do not educate people who call me a Jerk. Suffice it to say that I believe you are speaking out your South end from a perspective on a lack of knowledge on the subject matter and I believe Minermark has already set you straight in that regaurds. Furthermore, if you knew more about PWK and this Forum, you would realize that Paul Wilbur Klipsch wore a yellow BS button on the underside of his lapel that he would expose whenever he thought someone was spouting crap and did not know what they were talking about, so it is nothing personal on this Forum to call BS on someone... Roger hey roger, i dont know you & didnt start this, you called BS on me, or actually ABSOLUTE BS in CAPS for no reason at all, like i deserved that... i made a suggestion based on my experience of using auto filler on wood, i even explained the situation & why, maybe my situation was different. again, all i said was i suggest wood filler for filling wood. please forgive the "BS" & how was i "proven wrong" by anyone? calling ABSOLUTE BS on me for no reason & without knowing my history on the subject warrants a jerk reference. does it not? if you didnt agree with something i said there is a more mature of saying that, or send a PM if you have a problem. like i said, i dont know you, why the attitude? are you having a bad day?? furthermore... yes i know about pwk & this forum & must say this is the first time i have ever seen "BS" callled in that way with an ATTITUDE. yeah, nothing personal.

why the yelling & caps? sorry for saying its not the right product to repair fiberglass. are you actually saying, as an expert, that you use the regular ol pink bondo filler to make or repair fiberglass? must have taken a differnt auto body class than me. yes its "made of resin" however without getting all scientific, its not the same type or formulation of resins used for real fiberglass work or repair... you know, like making an automotive body panel, or a boat hull or other large item, like tea cups, with layers & layers of fiberglass matting & coating it with a much thinner clear type resin. my apologies but i disagree, you dont just use the pink bondo body filler for that & its not the CORRECT way to repair fiberglass. this shouldn't have to be explained. but yes, i will stop the rant & simple suggestion to use actual wood products on wood.

just curious, but where does #262 say its for wood? i have #262 & #272 (fiberglass reinforced) & neither say for wood anywhere on the can, although #272 does say "household". but they both say for "auto body surfaces" in the instructions, no mention of wood. & BTW, im not doubting anyones opinions or argueing here... nor am i calling "ABSOLUTE BS" on anyone, to do so is quite rude.... just sating what i see on my cans of "bondo" & what has & has not worked for me. no need to get all bent out of shape, the OP asked for suggestions & thats what hes getting. oh, & my can of dap wood filler specifically says for "deep" repairs on all wood types....

really?? well good for you... i call ABSOLUTE JERK on you. please elaborate on what part of my or RCB1725 suggestion/comments are BS???

ive had a couple pair of the 5.5's. very nice speaker for the price, sold my nicer ones for $400, & a lesser pair for $300 with some chips & veneer damage. in good shape 300-400 is a decent price, any less is a great deal. they compare to the KLF-10 speakers, IMO they are much better than little heresies & have way better bass output. as for reference, hard to compare, the equal woofer size is the rf-7 & that is a better speaker than the kg5.5. IMO the kg5.5 is very under rated & sounds great in stock form with decent 80-100wpc receivers, but adding crites titanium tweeters will improve their sound quite a bit since the "tweeter" on these 2 ways does much of the midrange too.

its all good. must be a chop busting weekend on here...

wow, everyones a critic here... im simply stating my experience with using automotive "filler" products on wood, maybe its the type of wood that matters or the particular product used. when i have used "bondo" on some standard pine wood it held great for about 2-3 years, then started to pull away & peel out, you could see the hairline crack start after a year or so. pine is a soft wood & may be different than harder plywoods etc. however when i used a true wood filler, intended for much deeper repairs than just screw holes as mentioned, it has lasted for 15+ years, this was on the same type of pine & also on real oak, not veneers. so, my suggestion was based on what i have found. & as RCB1725 mentioned, auto fillers need a good foundation to "grip", like random orbit 80 grit sanders will leave, or like you always see holes drilled in metals for the "play-dough factory effect". if one just lays it over a smooth wood surface it will not hold as good as it should & could come off in high humidity or stress environments etc. & the comment about. "it says its for wood right on the can"... well, lots of products make all kinds of claims, super glue says its for wood too but would you use that on any wood vs a real wood glue? same with cheap spray paints, says for metal, wood, etc etc... would you spray your car or paint your house with it? no. or, for real fiberglass repair, regular "bondo" says its for fiberglass too, but any real bodyman knows it wont last, you use real fiberglass matting & fiberglass resin for fiberglass work. my apologies to the guys that feel my suggestion was sooo wrong. lighten up, there's more than one way to skin a cat ya know? sheesh!

"smaller" sorry, mistook the model # as a lower power rating. but yes, 125wpc is somewhat "small" for a 400w rms/1000 peak rated speaker. my comment of more power was something in the 200-250 range.

im sure bondo products will work, but in my experience bondo didnt last on wood as long as real wood fillers. ive been doing auto body & mechanical for 20+ years & automotive type "bondo" products are best used for metal or fiberglass etc. DAP & other brand wood filler is intended for far bigger "holes" or repairs than just screw holes, have used it on 1/2" deep & 2-3" wide repairs with great results. but as with everything, each person has their own opinion & preference. use what you want, just follow the products instructions.