Dave A

YES! I had a pan of cheapo and not so cheapo meters that died for one reason or another. Would have saved money buying the better one to begin with.

I am seriously considering the idea of mid range. No Mumps and not sure about final shape. Thinking of using 1" Baltic Birch from the drops I will have from my current SMWM project. Stack them and glue them and cut them.

Yes better tools last longer and resist accidents better.

The references I found for these online all talked about what they do and the value of it but none claimed to have software or the ability to say exactly how to do it for a new speaker. Trial and error and testing each variation to find the sweet spot seems to be the only way.

I have been told it breaks up the sound reflections in the cabinet to prevent what they call a standing wave. I did not save the link but do a search for standing wave baffles. Forgot to mention congrats on the 456's. You are really going to like them.

When you say something you ought to at least try to be accurate. Unless of course your intent was to stir the pot which I would not rule out. In any case the spec sheet says Birch Plywood and MDF. I suspect the motorboards only in this case and it is amusing to see you not clarify this.

Welcome to the forum and you have a great set of speakers. I like these more than Forte or Cornwalls. Recapping the crossovers is a good thing to do as those old mylar caps are out of whack by now.

Yes and the knobs on that amp are not pretty either. Reading the specs I would never have been interested in this BUT we do have to get to 100 pages. Like the Pinocchio click bait far more than the amp.

I don't think the knobs are very attractive.

I bought a Fluke 117 which is supposed to be better and also reads capacitance. Compared to a B&K 885 it is not accurate and by the time you get up to say 20uf has problems. No ESR measuring either so rely on these Flukes for a general idea but not an accurate idea of capacitance. That has been my experience with the two side by side on my workbench regarding capacitance. Otherwise Fluke seems to be dead on. Klein and Amprobe make multimeters with good reputations but Fluke is the most common from what I see the pro's use around here. I have had cheapo's before and I got what I paid for and the Radio Shack one was half the price of the Fluke 117 so it was not free either. Cheap flimsy garbage compared to the Fluke though and died pretty quickly. I like tools that work right and are durable.

OK K1 and 2 owners tell me why you prefer an older amp to current offerings? When I was looking I wanted one I could hook up directly to my PC with RCA inputs on the amp. What sound levels do you play at that you need that kind of power? What are you saying the old ones do the new ones don't do? The Crown xil1500 with 350 watts 8 ohm is new for $300 at Sweetwater and the used K ones are $300 plus on EBay. Personally I have only turned up my single xli800 all the way with any of my speakers one time. I put on my shooting hearing protectors before I did so for my friend who just wanted to hear the MCM's as loud as I could get them. It was ridiculous and I turned them back down after a couple of minutes because he had no idea what he was doing to his ears.

Add another loop to the P in PS Audio and it becomes accurate.

I just ordered my second Crown xli800. Honest clean 200 watts per 8 ohm channel and if you turn them all the way up on those you better have ear protection. I find for my tastes I hardly ever even crowd 150 watts and these things just loaf along. Like your Pro speakers Pro amps are to me the better buy. $225 delivered too. Even though I am getting a Xilica setup for my SMWM + 402 the amps I will be using are two of those xli800's. You remember Bonehead talking about headroom in pro speakers over the Heritage line? Same thing for amps too though anything with bells and whistles can climb in price pretty fast and you won't get things like Audyssey to play with.

Most of what I hear is Klipsch and the excursion is pretty small so not a tremendous amount of air volume moving.

No to be honest I have not that I could identify. Maybe it is there but to me all I hear is a speaker that sounds different than others do which is what I expect anyway since they are different. No steam engines or puff puff noises I can tell with speakers I have had.

Yes to this and the big bonus of placing your speaker anywhere and it works right and is not corner dependent. 90 degree angle and then extend from there perhaps? How long does it need to be anyway? I guess I am missing something here. I see this term used but I can't say I have ever noticed anything like this with speakers I have had. I don't have a set of Chorus I's to play with but I know sometimes blocking a port can lower hz. I had a pair of EV tl440's and if you wanted the lowest hz you had to block one of the two ports. Playing with a program called BoxNotes last night which was indicating on the KPT-456's if I blocked two of the four ports the lowest hz would drop more than you might think. I would take front ported over a passive any day and if this is right is just another reason in favor of front ports. You can tune these front ports with length and or covering one or more ports. With passives even though you can put weights on a passive and tune it that way you still have to use a corner.

You are ahead of me. I have never had my hands on the newer La Scala drivers.

Thanks for the concise info Bob, I never thought of Zee brackets. I like that new K-77D shape better than anything before and wonder why they did not make that change a long time ago. Now if they would just front mount the mid horn. Are those screw hole centers still the same as the K-77M?

While working on these 456's I notice a piece of plywood inside the cabinet towards the top. It is fill width, starts about 4" back from the front of the motorboard and goes at a 45% angle down towards the back and ends just about at the back top corner of the input cup cutout and has a layer of foam on the down side slope. What exactly does adding this piece do?

OK can someone tell me why the La Scala II tweeter cutout is so darned big relative to the tweeter lens? What I am told is that the new tweeter just floats around in that hole and it sure looks to me like the screw hole pattern is longer center to center too. I know Klipsch has CNC routing capability and the tweeter is precision cast so what's the deal with the third world hole size?

Great thread. I have a set of parts for a Chorus I and I have some 1" Baltic on hand for a build. I figure on maybe making it bigger depending on what the guys with software say is best. Like these the MDF was damaged and no way to repair.

It is infintesimal at this time.

Not really. There is such a small demand for these right now that it would not be worth doing. What I can do is modify the design to extend the screw tabs on each end to match the larger hole spread. They will end up being a bit more expensive too with additional material and cutting time but I imagine not more than say 15 or 20$. These test pretty good and getting into making them longer but not being able to make them taller at the horn mouth would change that. If there is interest over time I will do so. Hoping to be able to test tweeters myself sometime later this year. I have the tools to do so I just don't know how to yet.

Interesting. It looks like I will have to design a new one for this with a longer tab on each end for the screw holes. Any idea why they are just floating around in such a big hole? What are the screw holes for on the motorboard? Are they pre-drilling the holes for the back side horn mounting screws?

They have always been Personal Audio speakers as far as I know.