luddite

I have acquired a SX 1250 in original condition. I thought it would need just a good clean up, but closer inspection reveals more. There is surface corrosion on the jacks at the rear of the unit, and what I hope is just surface rust (or pitting) on the chassis. The shaft for the balance knob has a slight bend. The unit was stored for an extended period, and it shows. The good news is that it is fully functional, and works as it should. I would like to have it restored to as new condition. I have seen listings on eBay for "restoration services", but have no knowledge of who is reputable. Anybody have a good Pioneer repair/restoration resource? I am willing, and expect to have to ship it. I'd like to keep the amp for a while.

Another update. I did receive the CD's as ordered today. I accept Vectra's explanation at face value. I have purchased from him before without problems. He did follow up with me regarding my concerns.

An update on my earlier posts. Still have heard nothing from the seller in over a week. Vectra said he was to ship the batch of CD's I purchased a week ago today. No follow up. No shipping information or tracking number. He has visited this site last Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. I do not know what is going on with him, as he has not responded to my communications. I have purchased from him a while back, and did not remember there being an issue. This experience is much different. Let the buyer beware.

Looks like Vectra has dropped off the face of the Earth. I purchased a few of his CD’s. Payment made. Was told the items were to be shipped days ago. No further contact from Vectra. At this point I have had no contact from the seller. If you are around I would appreciate some indication on the status of the sale.

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I was able to fit a pair of Klipschorns into a 2008 Lexus RX 350. I took off the tophats, and the side skirts, and saved the mounting hardware. Marked the various pieces to make sure each speaker would go back together correctly. Wrapped the bass bins and tophats separately with furniture pads I had rented from Haul (pretty cheap, and well worth it), and packing tape. The bass bins laid flat side by side, front to back, in the rear of the vehicle, with a few inches of clearance on all sides. One tophat sat in the gap between the angles of the bass bins. The other tophat rode shotgun in the front passenger seat. The side skirts, wrapped and padded, were on the sides of the bass bins, between them and the passenger doors. Made a 300 mile road trip without incident. Returned the furniture pads to UHaul. Then called it a day. The GX is bigger than the RX, I think. Have a feeling you can do it without too much trouble.

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I have a line on a SX1250 in original condition locally. Seems to be unmolested, and treated kindly. It would replace a McIntosh MC2200 amp, Marantz 3800 preamp, and period correct silver face Sony tuner, and drive a pair of Forte 2's. This is now a secondary system, but I do use it on a regular basis, and enjoy the retro vibe. My rational for the switch would be to "downsize", and replace 3 components with a single receiver. But, realistically, I've always wanted the 1250, mainly for its reputation as a high water mark in Pioneer's line. I have owned other Pioneer equipment from the 1970's and 1980's, and have enjoyed the sound. I would then get rid of the separates as I could. You may see them listed in the Garage Sale down the line. Is my 200 watt Mac amp with autoformers that much better than a 160 watt Pioneer? Likewise my highly regarded Marantz preamp, and so-so Sony tuner? Or is this an apples to oranges comparison, and not really worth it to rationalize another purchase of way too old equipment?

Not sure how relevant my comment is to the thread, but... A guy locally is selling his Pioneer SX 1250 for $2800(!). I know it has the reputation as a highpoint in period receivers, etc. But that kind of money will buy some excellent modern equipment. What kind of difference would one hear when listening to properly restored older equipment, and why bother when one can get the latest and greatest for similar $$? To me, the older pieces, and I have more than my share of them, are like classic cars. Great to look at and putter around in, but not so much fun for the cross country trip.

I did a quick look to see the requirements for hospital grade. The plug housings are larger than standard, and square shaped, in order to lessen the chance that the conductors of one plug could accidentally contact those of another plug. The grounding pin is solid, rather than hollow, or U-shaped, so that it is less likely to bend or break if the plug were stressed at the junction with the outlet. The plug housings can be solid, so the wire to blade/pin connections remain stable, and the housings may be clear, in order to see the connections. And lastly, the covering of the cable is heavier. All these measures seem to be to preserve the integrity of the cables in heavy use and high stress environments. The requirements did not seem to address any sort of improvement in the wires themselves. In fact, the cables I did find around just had 16 and 18 ga wire listed inside. So perhaps hospital grade cables are stronger, but not necessarily better, than the ones I have on my components. That still makes me wonder why one can pay serious money for an "upgraded" power cable. What are you paying for?

I work in a hospital and have access to extra/leftover hospital grade cables. We have always been told they were better shielded than standard cables, to reduce the potential for EM interference with equipment, and to lessen the potential for shocks, sparks, fires, etc. I was wondering if these cords would be an improvement over the standard power cords supplied with my components. What makes a power cord an upgrade? Why pay $$$ for the lines advertised as upgraded? And, how can I tell if the “hospital grade” cords I can get would improve my systems?

No, mine is not in as good a shape. Have my Belles strapped to the roof. Not sure if the SS or tube amp works better with the 8 track in the car.

Not a classic VW, and I got rid of my Heresies a while back, but... A classic car with a horn speaker!

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I tried to buy a pair of DDS-1’s a while back. Owned by a engineer who at one time worked at Stax Studios. They hung by chains in one of the studios, at 175 lbs apiece, documented by photos. I bet they played some iconic music. I was outbid by the Stax Museum. The speakers are under repair, and I’m told will be back on their chains in the recreated studio.

A bit uncanny to see a reference to King Crimson. I suggest "The Court of the Crimson King" by King Crimson, on vinyl. I have it on the original 50 year old LP, and on a later issued CD. I submit the LP because I'm a luddite. Yes it's prog-rock. Yes it's heavily electrified. But yes, it has great stereo separation, great vocals, and great orchestration. And it will work your system to the max for clarity, effects, and harmony. And it's a great listen with your favorite relaxation libation or technique.

For what it's worth, I do occasionally stream through an older Macbook Pro and Dac Magic. But, as has been noted, mostly the music is analog per my TT, or through a well used early generation CD player. I even tried to resurrect an old cassette deck, but it had been sitting in the overheated attic so long the belt melted. Now what am I going to do with all those tapes, and 8-tracks, and reel to reels, and acetate discs, and Edison cylinders?

I did not want to bring up the potential need for an active crossover with bi-amping with my original question. But, as retaining the passive crossover negates the benefits of adding the second, or third amps, the active crossover is part of the deal. So now the question becomes: what adds more to the bi-amping exercise, the amp or the crossover?

I'm sure this question has been asked, and probably answered, multiple times. I've had Khorns driven by a Mc275 version VI, Belles driven by Mc2125's X2, and Belles driven by a Mc7270. Have never felt the need to bi-amp anything, but perhaps I've just never experienced audio-nirvana. Now I'm down to a pair of Belles and the afore mentioned Mc275, with a RSW115 helping out with the bottom end. I have a Mc2200 sitting around, occasionally driving a pair of Forte II's. Would I get any benefit if I bi-amped the Mc2200 (SS, 200 WPC), and the Mc275 to the Belles with or without the sub? The crossovers on the Belles are upgraded. McC27 preamp, Merrill modded Thorens TD160 HD TT, MCD 7007 CD. And assorted peripherals.

Rock on. (Jazz on?). Didn't get a chance to bid on the collection, and congrats to buyer and seller. Members of the forum seem to have better quality equipment/accessories/ sources of music than the mainstream. I'm always on the lookout for good stuff. That's why I check the garage sale. Next time, maybe I will be quicker on the draw...

As the OP, I have enjoyed the conversation. My original questions were answered to my satisfaction (orientation of speakers and the necessity of “sterility” of studio monitors for accurate sound reproduction). As a Luddite, I have not dissected my music to its digital or analog essence. I spin my LP’s and CD’s on equipment older than many of our forum members, and stream music files however compressed they may be. I appreciate the experience and expertise of those who have posted. Opinions can be accepted or ridiculed, but should be acknowledged. If we listen to each other as closely as we do our music, we may actually be able to appreciate what that person has to say.

What I was really asking was: Is there much difference in the sound quality if mids and tweeters are oriented on the vertical VS horizontal axis, and Is the quality of sound reproduction that much better from a "studio monitor" speaker VS a typical bookshelf type speaker. I understand that each speaker will color the sound to a certain degree, in the same way that preamps and amps will do so. As to the specific speaker, I'm sure one can be better for near field listening and another for a "wall of sound". One picks what he or she wants. I was just wondering what advantage a studio monitor type speaker would give.

This may be a revival of a previous thread discussing near field systems. The speakers in my home office system are placed sideways on bookshelves at ear height when I'm sitting, flanking my computer. So they are 3-6 feet away from me depending on what I'm doing. I'm usually streaming music through a 2 channel system, mostly for background; sometimes I'll crank up something I like. I have tried Heresy's on their sides, and most recently McIntosh ML1C's on their sides. Both sounded OK, no complaints. Now I wonder if a dedicated studio monitor would sound better. I'm looking at JBL 4311 or 4411. Each has the mids and tweeters oriented in the vertical plane when the speakers are on their sides. My others were not. Any opinions if I will notice a difference in quality of sound with studio monitors vs "bookshelve" speakers for near field?

One more bump for the amp. It's on the way to fleabay, etc. It, and its twin, also available, were used to power a variety of setups. Now I've gone to a tube amp, and the SS pieces have to go.