RoboKlipsch

As annoying as this 2nd answer may sound, which you should buy really requires that you either go listen to them at a store, or just guess and get whichever you think you may want. If possible go listen, and see if it's worth it to you to get floorstanding speakers. Even though the series is relatively new, there should be some used ones popping up. In good working condition there's no reason not to consider used ones as a way to be able to get any of the options without as much cost. Warranties are not transferable at Klipsch so that's a downside of used, but depending upon the cost of new vs used, the risk may well be worth it. RK

Well the most obvious difference is one is designed to sit on the floor and another on a bookshelf Especially in the last 25 years, small satellites or speakers have been popular, especially if used in a living room. Bookshelf speakers are a much better version of a typical tiny satellite you might see from Bose. They can play most anything down to their low extension and sound very good without any subwoofer added. Floor standing speakers are typically at the correct height for listening, or close. So no stands are needed. Because the cabinets are larger than a bookshelf, they can usually be tuned lower, as the size of a cabinet enables a woofer with the correct capability to go lower. With a larger cabinet, it's easy to add a 2nd woofer into the floorstander, and there are benefits in efficiency. A few Klipsch, the RF83 and RF63, have 3 woofers. You should keep firmly in mind that if you want a home theater, a subwoofer is more or less a necessity to get good lower end bass. If you agree with that, then which of the two choices you are considering -- bookshelf, or floorstander, is more a question of what you want. Why? Because with a subwoofer, a typical crossover point is around 80hz. Since either option you mentioned can go far below 80hz, they both will work well with the sub. So many who don't have or want to use the space of a tower or floorstanding speaker use a bookshelf speaker -- it sounds way better than a satellite, but doesn't use as much room as the floorstander. Since the sub would cover the lower end, the lowest extension of either option is not very important. So short version -- with a subwoofer both will work equally well, it's a matter of what you prefer. Without a subwoofer, more extension in a bookshelf or floorstanding speaker will be a matter of how low you can reproduce music, movies, or shows. Cost is also a factor. A typical bookshelf from the same series will cost less than a floor standing model, so that's important. But you'll need a stand of some sort, or a bookshelf, which can be used but porting of the bookshelf speaker must be accommodated properly (i.e. depending upon where the port is, if it has one, it must have enough room around it). If I'm wrong, which is always possible :), someone will for sure correct me

If the return is one of many in the home you should cover it when listening. Will solve most of that issue. Inuke has many fan mods but i have not done one to relay any details.

$150 shipped u have matching rc35 waiting on ebay. Get us started and we will have a whole system laid out in 30 minutes lol.

Ever since one guy on ebay advertised his for $1k (and has still not sold it) it seems every one is now going up for 800-1100 with a few at 700. Here it is, like 3 months later, now discounted to the low 950 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Klipsch-RSW-15-Powered-Subwoofer-/252501178693?hash=item3aca3e3945:g:BqYAAOSwZetXOlV9 lol

Would be more than happy to bring mine over to demo or help you with yours!

DJ and FD - this is my current response at each of the 3 main seats. The amount of time spent measuring every spot in the room, saving them, combining them, tweaking and testing to get to here was immense. A lot of fun, a lot of frustration, and a pretty nice set of graphs. It currently is crossing over at 120hz as I find the fronts and room don't work so well in the lower range.

Hi DJ -- Thank you. I'll take a look. My plan is to "build" a few from kits, so I don't have to do too much. Options currently are 4cft for a 12", 4cft for a 15" or 5.4cft for a 18". Don't want to go 18 as it gets bigger and more expensive. And I've got 2 of those With 2 subs that go to 14hz flat, and 10hz at -7db, I figure a couple of ported subs right behind the couch that can model to 20hz should get to 15 solid. With reclining seats I think they can sit behind seats 1 and 3, potentially at just about 3 feet from driver to ears. About 4 or 5 feet from the MLP, I figure 2, one on each side, should nail the middle seat too combined. In Seats 1 or 3 with the seat reclined, ears may be as close as 8 to 10" from the drivers.

All 3 graphs are using the DIYSG 4cft ported enclosure with a slot port, tuned to 21hz First graph shows what the driver does by itself, using only a 2nd order HPF. Driver has enough excursion you can use a 2nd order even with full power. This shows 1600watts. Second graph shows what the driver does using a 3rd order HPF, 5db boost at 20hz Q1. 800 watts Third graph shows a PEQ corrected graph, using a 2nd order HPF, 5db boost at 20hz Q1, and a very small amount of PEQ to straighten the response. 425 watts Each curve is shown designed to get to XMAX, and slightly beyond (about 10% beyond XMAX). Shows a few different ways you might set it up. What I see and like is that the driver can be made flat, if necessary, and drive a very high SPL, and low HZ, using only 425 watts max. What do you think FD?

Let's see if these show up, I haven't tried to post a graph before from REW Famous 15 High Excursion SPL HPF Only.xps Famous 15 High Excursion SPL HPF and 5db 20HZ boost.xps Famous 15 High Excursion SPL 2nd O HPF 5db 20boost and bit of EQ.xps

Although there's a bit of a hump for the midbass, it's easily PEQd out if necessary. The lower end, with this XMAX and motor seem able to boost the low end and create a better low end than any other driver I can find in a 4cft ported box. If anybody can model or find a driver in the $200 or less range they think will work or model better, please feel free to make a suggestion. When I model it, it crushes the 15" RO or RF driver. The Ultimax at 15" needs a way bigger box and can't be PEQd well in 4cft. The 12" Ultimax is the closest I could come in modelling, but still found I could get 1hz more extension, and 3more DB at 20hz and above. But the 12" ultimax is really almost ideal in a 4cft box. The 12" ultimax is a nice driver, but the box it would go in from DIYSG is more rectangular and not ideal for the nearfield I'm considering.

To reduce rumble outside the home make sure subs especially are isolated from the floor. A 1" thick chunk of carpet or thick rubber mat will help keep the bass inside. Vibrations through the floor can be reduced easily this way.

3cft sealed in WinISD is actually a bit big -- the excursion gets too high without a filter. A smaller on around 1.5 or 2 seems to model much better for excursion and spl. I have 2 of those kits ordered already actually. I was considering the 12" kits and they would be fine imo. The dimensions weren't quite as nice though with the 12 being around 5" longer. Should be a fun and easy build...which works great for me

2 of these showed up at my door today! How did that happen? I really appreciate you pointing this driver out. I was originally planning to build a couple ported subs for nearfield and was going to use the Ultimax 12. I modeled this driver and while it has a hump in response in the mid-bass...that may work very well in my setup. My current subs are monsters and are pretty much flat but the chop I had to PEQ was in the higher band, 60-80/90ish, so this could be an interesting summation with the response hump. Or, maybe they will suck, I guess I'm not sure I have an L-shaped room so getting all the seats within a narrow band (+-5db from 15-100) is quite a challenge. Easily within that range until around 60hz, at which point each seat differs and some nearfield mid bass may be the answer. If anybody objects to putting this into a 4cft vented enclosure tuned to around 21hz, please say so now. (or, laugh later....) Or if you really like a different driver better in 4cft I'm open to hearing about that. I want the sub to be able to be a standalone --- if at some point I put it in another room or setup I want it to be able to go low, that's why I selected this over the RO/RF series from Dayton which I think would be very nice too. Otherwise....I'm going to start a DIY build thread here at Klipsch and bring anybody along that cares to see the progress. By the way this driver weighs 45 lbs. More than the 18" Ultimax drivers. It looks like a monster. Hopefully it won't tip the sub over lol

What are you matching it with? I have the 250C which is great. I have never heard the 440c. But what it's paired with may help in the decision.

Im in. Im sorry to report i sold the bose acoustimass otherwise i would bring it. I do think my r10sw would give the horns and the martys a run

with cheese

http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/msg/5729445288.html I am not familiar with the Klipsch 18" driver so I assume this is a pro driver of some sort. No affiliation.

Denon makes nice avrs. If u go that route look for Audyssey xt or xt32 if possible. The x4000 is an older model but has great features and can be found new around 600 to 700 or used around 400.

I find the back surrounds provide more depth...instead of panning from left to right 2 more speakers provide a better sweep than just the first 2. Not necessary but what is? I found a pair of rb51iis for $100....i said why not.

63s are definitely a steal and so is the rc64 Just wanted to say kudos for building what is and was a beautiful system. Even if selling you had what looks to me one of the best HT setups possible through Klipsch

The dual 4ohm coils allow for a 2ohm load, which can be matched with an inuke3000 and get 1k watts per channel cheap! This was the philosophy of the original Martysub builds, using cheap but good quality power to max out an amp $$$-wise. No idea how the driver is but for home theater use the Ultimax series is designed to go lower (I think).

Samsung currently makes the best quality TVs and typically charges for it. The UHDs are beautiful, the curved screens are incredible. It's not unlike hi fi equipment -- what you already have is a very nice TV. This one is better...significantly better. I don't think the highest end models are NECESSARY...but necessary is not really the question. If you're looking to buy one of the best TVs available and never regret it, it's a great choice.

Reading this I thought the point might be to guess what substance or alcohol was being used at the time....lol Air show practice is going on here in Chicago, talk about great LFE, when they go right over you it's amazing. I've been to Cubs games where they do multiple flyovers. I think like many here I would not get tired after 25 of them F-15 Strike Eagle does not require room gain to get the response desired

LOL Jupiter Ascending I am one that can put up with almost any goofy stupid thing but once they hugged and were flying together with his special jet shoes lol it was turned off. That was maybe 15 minutes in. Agree that a movie must have some semblance of watchability to get rated for LFE.