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Ole Dollar

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    219
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southwest, TN
  • Interests
    Wife, kids, music, and cars.
  • My System
    Solid State:
    McIntosh C31V Preamp
    McIntosh MC2002 Amplifier
    (2) McIntosh MC30's on 402 Horns
    Crown XLS1500 Amplifier
    Xilica XP-4080 Speaker Controller
    Pioneer Elite DVD59i SACD Player
    iFi DAC Plays WAV/FLAC Files
    Klipsch Jubilee Mains
    Klipsch 1502 Subwoofer

    Vacuum Tube:
    McIntosh MX110 Tuner/Preamp
    McIntosh MC240 Amplifier
    McIntosh MPI 4 Maximum Performance Indicator
    Beogram BX2 Turntable (Stereo)
    Sound-Smith SMMC1 Cartridge
    MCS Turntable (Mono)
    Grado ME+ Cartridge
    Klipsch Chorus II

    Home Theater:
    Yamaha Aventage Receiver in 7.2
    Sony Blue Ray Player
    External Digital Over-Air TV Receiver
    Intel Compute Stick for Internet
    Klipsch RF3 II Mains
    Klipsch Synergy Center & Sides
    Klipsch RB 10 Rear
    (2) Klipsch SW 450 Subwoofers

    Bedroom System:
    McIntosh MC240
    iFi DAC with iPhone or computer
    Klipsch Heresy 1 Mains on stands
    Klipsch KSW-15 Subwoofer

    Daughter 1 Bedroom:
    Pioneer VSX Receiver
    Sony DVD Player for CD's
    Bluetooth Adapter
    Klipsch EPIC CF-3 Mains

    Daughter 2 Bedroom:
    Yamaha Receiver with Bluetooth
    iPad Air for streaming
    Klipsch RB51 II Mains

    Computer Speakers:
    Klipsch ProMedia 4.2
    Klipsch ProMedia 2.0
    Klipsch ProMedia GMX 5.1
    Klipsch Promedia DD 5.1 Dream System including Preamp

    Spare Equipment:
    McIntosh MC2002 Amplifier
    Dynaco ST70 Amplifier
    Tube Cube 7 Amplifier - NOS Mullard Tubes

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  1. I'm using a 40 watts per channel 6L6 based amp with Heresy 1s and a sub-woofer. Before the 6L6 amp I used a 3.5 watts per channel amp using two 6BQ5 tubes. The increase in power with the 6L6s was pretty noticeable at higher volumes which I almost never use. I agree with @Westcoastdrums I'm living in the first 5 watts. I would have moved back to the smaller amp but the larger amp has better sound quality everywhere it operates.
  2. All tubes are NOS Mullard - I asked the guy I buy tubes from for “the most tube sounding , non-solid state” combo I could get. He recommended the Mullards from the Blackburn plant. This combo really improve the Tubecube 7 well beyond what I expected. Unfortunately the Mullards cost close to what the amp does. Worth it, YES.
  3. My sub is a KSW15 and has low level RCA ins and outs. The RCA outs are filterable at 50 or 80Hz. So nothing below 80Hz going to Tubecube 7 Tidal —> iPhone —> DAC —> Sub —>TC7 —> Heresy
  4. I have a Tubecube 7 that has NOS Mullard EL84s and 12AX7. Playing through a pair of Heresy speakers and a subwoofer it sounds pretty amazing. Has a great 3D sound stage and good cymbal coverage. The sub picks up the lower frequencies as the Tubecube is 3.5 watts per channel. Using a iFi DAC and iPhone for tunes. Have taken this setup on vacation with RB51ii bookshelf speakers, fits in a medium size bin. Really is a nice sounding amp and not a fan of the SINO tubes that come with it, amp really came alive when NOS Mullards installed.
  5. @rplace thank you for the picture of your setup and really enjoying the thoughts and conversation on this thread today. Must admit you have me interested in open baffle now. 🙂
  6. While I do subscribe to the “Tim the tool man” approach - more power - I am courteous as to when you will drive the speakers with 2200 watts. I have done PA work for many years and have used 2000 watts to fill a large area which did not translate well to the home environment. On a side note I tried a Crown 1500, first version of amp, on the bass bins and was disappointed in the sound stage at home, very flat, same with main speakers in PA use. The 1500 does work well as a subwoofer amp and is powering the 1502 sub I have. Since you have the XLS 1002, third version of that amp, are you happy with the sound quality?
  7. I went through something like this with the Jubilee bass bins. The McIntosh amps, 200w per channel x2 at 8 ohms, I have are not capable of bridging with the two woofers in the bass bin so I asked Roy about running each woofer with a separate channel of the same amp. Not speaking for Roy on your question, he told me I had other issues and he did not recommend the 2 channel approach. Essentially 200w was plenty for the bass bin at home. I experimented with speaker position which did make it better. Chris A did help me with the DSP part. I was having lack of bass issues and was trying to use what I had to fix it - 2 of those Mac amps so trying to figure out how to bridge or use 2 channels on each bass bin. End result was speaker position and then adding a 1502. is there a problem you are trying to fix?
  8. McIntosh MC240 is another great choice. I like it better than the Fisher’s mentioned above.
  9. Thank you, will give it a try.
  10. Please put the 20 Hz PEQ settings in this thread as I am interested in trying them. Also agree, that is not a mid-bass cabinet.
  11. RIP. Loved him as Chang, the Klingon nemesis of Star Trek VI: The Undiscovered Country.
  12. The best center channel speaker for a Forte IV is a Forte IV, the best for a Cornwall IV is another Cornwall IV. I went down this path with the Chorus II when talking to Chief Bonehead - he said another Chorus II for the center is best. So I not holding my breath on the center channel speaker. As for subwoofer I recommend a 1502. Tried non-horn loaded sub’s with fully horn loaded speakers and was never satisfied - like adding mud when using a direct radiating sub. Admittedly I mostly listen to music and in stereo, have a separate home theater system for movies. P.S. Yes I know Chorus II’s are not fully horn loaded.
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