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About Godataloss

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  • My System
    Volti-Modded Ramblin' Rose K-horns. Juicy Music Peach Pre amp. Parks Audio Budgie Phono stage. VPI HW-19 Jr table with Ortofon Black cart. MK3, ST35, or Decware SE 84 amplification.

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  1. Probably a scam. Ebay is likely the largest global money laundering service.
  2. So I shouldn't send this money order? 😜
  3. It's amazing to me how often I see the suggestion to use Howard's products in speaker circles. You will never see them recommended in woodworking circles or proper furniture restoration forums. Howard's products, especially Feed -n- Wax are not wood finishes. The are soft waxes with various solvents and distillates that provide no protection to the wood surface. Restore-a-finish is loaded with solvents that will actually eat the existing finish. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH IT! This isn't typically a problem with an oiled Klipsch speaker since the original oil finish is within the wood. It penetrates and oxidizes in the wood to protect it (which is why it's the best type of finish for this applications and you want to duplicate it). Howard's products are the darlings of the antique world because they are simple to use, provide immediate visual results (so would rubbing with olive oil) and are used on finishes that are typically well worn and dirty. You can slather it on without cleaning and especially in the case of Feed n Wax- it has the fresh lemony scent and it's shiny! It does nothing to protect the wood and in fact like Pledge or anything else you find in the super market, it will have to be removed before a proper finish can be applied. You are much better off simply cleaning the surface with mineral spirits and 0000 steel wool than using Restore a finish. The cardinal rule in approaching an existing finish is 'do no harm'. Restore a finish is like starting with a nuclear bomb. With an oil finish you simply want to clean off the surface so that the next oil finish you apply can penetrate the wood grain, oxidize and protect the wood. Using Feed -n- Wax is like rubbing mayonaise on the speaker. It will make it shiny. It will blend scratches. What it wont do is cure into a dry protective finish. In fact it will sit on the surface, remain wet and tacky and collect dust and fingerprints like crazy. So after you clean them, use an oil finish like they do at the Klipsch factory when your speakers were born. I recommend the 'natural' (colorless) danish oil if you are not trying to blend in existing finish damage. An oil finish will naturally darken over time, no need to add additional color. Apply it according to manufactures directions. Flood the surface and keep applying until it stops absorbing over the course of an hour or so. Then wipe it dry with a clean cotton rag. Let it cure at least 24 hours- longer if it's cooler weather or high humidity. Give plenty of time between coats- at least 24 hours. The finish has to oxidize. If you apply an additional coat too early it will start to get gummy and you will have to start over with the mineral spirits and 0000 steel wool. 2 or 3 coats should be plenty. With the last coat wipe with the grain and leave it undisturbed for a couple of days to really harden. Properly applied this finish will only need to be touched up every few years. Each coat will increase the durability of the finish. I'm not here to argue about this. This information is no different than you would hear in any respectable wood working or furniture restoration forum where Howard's products are an ongoing joke. An oil finish is easy if you follow the steps and more importantly beautiful and durable.
  4. Which is why I add quaternary ammonium to my cleaning solution. Even without it, ultrasonic removes coulomb induced forces in records. I have hardwood floors throughout my house so there is no carpet to catch dust so airborne dust is a concern and it's easy to see the effect. This is why the vacuuming methods are not suitable. They induce a charge. Any other cleaning method than ultrasonic is a half measure.
  5. With aniline dyes and them being so light, you could make them any color you want. I'm sure you're probably hesitant since they are in such nice shape though. Something unconventional might be really cool- you can do deep blues and reds, hell even purple with the black would probably look killer. I've never been a fan of the light oak, but every pair of speakers I've ever gotten with oak veneer has been in too good of shape and hasn't needed refinishing to try something like that.
  6. Awesome thread. Do you think you'll know when to stop?
  7. I lusted after these in high school. I think these that start out finished black oak actually end up looking better than factory oak when they are stripped and refinished. Great job!
  8. I was going to suggest this. Now that it's working, you might also want to capture those codes in case it does stop working.
  9. Nice deal on those. I really liked my Cornwalls.
  10. More than I paid for my Khorns, but those look very nice. Last I heard a pair was 30 years ago, but they left a very good impression. They handled the god-awful carver solid state power the machinist (read: mostly deaf guy ) was liberally applying to them better than the Khorns he had in the same room.
  11. Looks like some cabinet damage on the one near the bottom right side. I despise Craigslisters that don't show pics of obvious significant damage.
  12. Not much risk unless you are buying site unseen and shipping.
  13. Since you don't seem to have a lot of experience, I would urge you to purchase something that is comfortable to your budget and in excellent working condition. If you are buying used, you should include in your budget some money for having it serviced. Khorns are insanely efficient and any buzz or hum will be exponentially more annoying than with a traditional box speaker. The Dynaco designs work well with the Khorn. I use MK3's and St 35's on mine and I have a few others (Scott 340a, Fisher 400, Decware SE 84, blah blah).
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