glens

Everything sounds good except the cable. I'm not familiar with the 1/8" input on the mojo, but am thinking all you can use is a single-RCA to "mono" 1/8" male, which should carry the two-channel data stream from the second RCA output on the SHD. I'm thinking that with good headphones if there's any magic with the Chord stuff it might be apparent, but over speakers the advantage over, say, the minidsp 2x4HD dacs might not be so great anymore. And this unit is much less expensive than the SHD. Although the SHD appears to be well thought out and implemented. What you wish to do should work and work well.

Dave, if I were near I'd stop by and have a go at it with you. It'd be a first-time for me doing exactly that, but I'm figuring "how hard could it be?". Seriously. I think you've talked yourself out of it is all. You have a good idea of what you need to do; just be methodical.

Maybe they just need to iso-mount the electronics?

Perhaps, but did you ever try saying it with such a golden tongue as I? Hahaha!

Ding Ding Ding!!!!! We have a winner! Well, that's what I was going for. What's the award this week?

Subwoofers alone. Good to know that. I'm sure your room wiring is okay. The fans should have capacitors across the switches to suppress the noise. Sounds like they don't... Since the "stereo" amp and woofer amp are on the same power feed, that should tell you that whatever the line voltage is being dirtied with, the new amp is able to cope with it. The old amp should too, though. The line noise is getting through the power supply, sounds like to me. Just for kicks, power the speakers off an extension cord which is fed from the other side of the 240 coming in. You'll have about a 50/50 chance of finding one (outlet thus fed - another room is best chance), but I'd bet the pop will go away. That's not a fix, just a curious diversion. I've seen threads similar to this and in all cases, an amplifier refresh fixes it for at least a while. It'd casually seem Klipsch should distance themselves from active electronics.

Based solely on info provided within this thread, I'd like to know out of which drivers is the static pop being emitted? Got to narrow things down a bit if possible. It's possible the room wiring is all up to snuff and either amplifier is picking up RFI as it where from the motor switches. But it needs to be stated first if there's high frequency content alone, or in combination with low, or low alone, in this "spoken" static pop, to determine the most efficient next step to take.

Well evidently four each are deemed sufficient. But even though twice the material / labor cost (ha!), eight would be better. Perhaps they'll send you eight more of the screws they use along with a recommendation for the pilot drill size without affecting your warranty?

I thought of this topic driving home from a trip Sunday. There was a mostly steady-state hard wind from the left going down the freeway. You know, how you have to "lean" into it to stay going straight. Until you get on an overpass. Whereupon the side-force mostly disappears. Until you get to the other side with no free-air space underneath the roadway, then it's time to lean again. As a corollary, in the case of low frequencies produced by a loudspeaker, you want the no-gap-under situation so the (what would/should be) pressure changes/differentials achieve maximum effect.

Use side-cutters to nip it off flush as you can, then tap it in flush.

Well, I'm not familiar with any of those models. Historically I might've suggested Yamaha, but, frankly, I'd guess there's about as much difference between them as between any 3 cars in a typical NASCAR race...

He's merely suggesting you find the "volume" level that's correct, measuring the resistances both in front of and across the l-pad output, then using individual higher-quality resistors instead of the l-pad. The l-pad may "sound" just fine by itself.

Okay, so a refresher please on just where you're at in terms of equipment choices.

Okay. You know, I also have Forte IIIs (congratulations on your fine choice!), and it may well be that you could simplify your task and forego the subwoofer. Have you been listening to the speakers and feel the need for more deep bass, or are you yet earlier in the process of assembling this system?

Oh, and throw away (or relegate for other use) your blades often. Sharper is better.

You're welcome. I'd glue the pieces together in the overlapping flaps as opposed to trying to tape them together (too much wiggle with tape). I'd imagine glue stick (like a large chapstick) that they use in elementary school would work admirably. You can probably get too heavy with the paper, but a little too heavy might be better than a little too light. Nothing worse than a template with a flexible edge, so to speak.

Should be. I'm not familiar enough with the crossover to say for sure without looking at the diagram, but it should certainly allow for what you want to do.

Two pieces of heavy paper, each sized to reach just beyond the front and back vertical edges, and somewhat taller than half the height. Lay one in flat on the surface with its upper edge tight to the upper corner/edge. If you need to scribe a line along that upper edge because the wood panels don't match in a straight line, leaving gaps, then do so and trim the paper to match the needed profile, then tape the paper in place. Do similarly on the bottom. If there's an intersection of surfaces at the rear of the panel which needs similar fitting, then use four pieces of paper. Securely fasten the pieces of paper together while in place and remove them as one piece. You now have a custom template. I'd leave the edges at the nose of the doghouse hang proud to trim in place, but you could include that edge as well on the template if you're careful enough.

Well, I always liked watching the cylinder turning on the Edison player; it was certainly part of the experience! (Maybe the best part...)

Kind of some funky, in terms of (traditional) home audio, hookups. Are you sure it's so superior-sounding that it's worth the trouble integrating it? It's doable, of course. With what settings? And what's the latency at higher rates?

So in light of that, which is about all the same as when I looked a while ago, what's the cost of those?

Oh, how does it sound?

10-4 Thanks.

Don't know. But if the firmware doesn't contain the latest play-fi it might not work yet for Apple's scheme. Did you try it or are you asking because you're considering the Gate?

That would be my fault, most likely. I apologize.