DirtyErnie

KG series seems to be very responsive to upgrades in the crossover and maybe the horn driver diaphragm. Bang-for-the-buck, my choice would be to put $200 into the speakers you have, and drop the rest of your budget on sources and amplifiers. But that's me injecting my math into your equation. 😉

For those of us just joining, anyone care to explain what exactly those horns there are?

Not necessarily off topic: Seems like these inductors might be a good fit for This Amp Project

Did that, it's DEFINITELY coming from the throat of the horn.

We don't usually ever turn it up that much, it's a small room, and small children almost always around. Unless one of the replacement caps in the crossover went bad, and too much low frequency is getting up in there. Suppose I could run some tones through it and measure some voltages at some point. As far as amplification goes, it's a horn. It doesn't take much motion at the voice coil to make a lot of noise, right?

To be honest, I think the voice coil is warped, it didn't seem to go back together 'clean'. If it was a game of operation, I woulda lost. 😉 I'll do some more testing on it as time allows. Since these are unobtanium, what's a good replacement? This?

Video Watch that... Its natural resonance is somewhere around 195Hz. Makes gnarly snapping noises with the right material. I've pulled it apart, didn't see any foriegn stuff in the voice coil, or wear spots. Bad driver or? Thanks.

Once maximum power distortion tests are done, would there be benefit in low-level testing? Hysteresis, or core distortion from the zero-crossing may be of interest. I've often wondered if there would be any merit in magnetically pre-biasing the core to avoid zero crossing. If you're using a ~400-Watt capable inductor, and a Klipschorn will wreck your hearing with 20-watts, it seems like there's a bit of magnetic headroom that can be traded in.

My thought with crossing over from ported speakers to a sub is to have the crossover happen at least a half-octave above the main speakers lowest rated frequency. I'm my mind, this avoids the time/phase delay of ported bass, and keeps more drivers in "direct radiator" mode. Now, did they rate your speakers at the port tuning frequency, or -10dB?

So, how much low-frequency extension happens by stacking up a pair/trio/quad of LaScala bass bins?

I did a similar style of upgrade on a set of KG2.5s. started by replacing the electrolytic caps on one side (used Erse PulseX), then listen to both speakers. The difference was quite obvious; stock, tired speaker was a scratchy, midrangy mush, replaced side was pretty even, and the treble was right. Took the other speaker down, did the electrolytics, and the high-pass series caps with the white caps from a Bob Crites kit. Treble extended and smoothed out quite a bit. Again, the difference from one modded speaker to the other was not subtle. Finally, took the other side down for the high-pass caps and titanium diaphragm tweeters. The upgrade was definitely noticeable and sounded better (to my ears) than the stock phenolic diaphragms, extended and smoother. Similar upgrades to a KV1 center has it sounding very similar to the CF2's. This upgrade path definitely takes the 'audio memory's factor out of the equation, and it's cool to listen to each step along the way. (And I live to share that story) Thank you, OP, for sharing yours. Enjoy!

"critical listening was no longer possible because the grin didn't disappear from my face." this means the modification was a success. 😁

Curious sidebar, here are a couple of solid-state Marshall power sections from the '90s. current feedback/higher output impedance was a feature. One of my to-do list exercises is to install a switch to modify or eliminate the current feedback and hear its effects. I have thought these might make decent stereo power stages, as well. Now, back to the program. Marshall-VS65R-65W-Schematic.pdf Marshall-VS100R-100W-Schematic.pdf

I can say, without a doubt, that my Sony HT receiver is definitely letting down my CF2s.

Theory question: if you use DSP and active EQ to fully flatten the frequency curve coming out of your speakers, have you not done better than either constant-voltage or constant-current and delivered constant-power?

One speaker at a time, and listening to the change is how it should be done. Good job, and enjoy the music!

Too much boundary effect and influenced perspective... The drool in the carpet doesn't help, either

You make my brains hurt a lot, and I love it

By how much?

I think, for my alleged purposes, your three driver arrangement would be much more suitable, maybe bass-reflexing it would be an option to look into, once I get the time... Most of that 'great tone' from the Classic Rock era relied on abuse of amplification and reproduction systems, and Danley's definitely engineering his stuff to avoid that. Wish I would have had two pair of EV Sentry IV back then, but those days are gone.

Pretty well, yes it does. Most of my playing history was struggling along with scrounged-up tube amps into cabinets at least 5dB less efficient than what the guitar player had. Mostly, it was cool to have the grinding tone of a maxed out Bassman 100, but there was no options or headroom. Wish I would have had a pair of these in '99. Maybe they'll go on the project list. Thank you for humoring me.

You're not wrong there. I'm still curious about db/1w/1m, though.

If we're talking about musical instrument use, a little strangeness and 'color' in the sound is generally part of the appeal to most speaker systems. Everything between your hands and the crowd's ears can be thought of as great big coloring crayons. The efficiency and frequency range would be much more important technical factors.

Now we're getting somewhere good, at least the bass player in me thinks so. That's about the size of a 2x12" cabinet, maybe a small 2x15", and might stack up well. What is the efficiency of your New center, in the 1w/1m numbers? I have an addiction to vacuum tubes, which can make it hard to keep up. Great discussion, thank you all.

^^ Both amps claiming to be waaay out on the flat part of the curve. How much resistance between there and the driver itself? Or even to the inputs at the crossover? What's the actual delivered damping factor? Probably way less than 3K. Either way, I'm jealous and I want one of those. 😁