MechEngVic

I've read that the MAHL tweeter w/ B&C DE10's is a significant improvement over even the Crite's titanium diaphragm (which I have thoroughly enjoyed except for some high volume breakup and the rolled-off highs that two-ways tend towards), and I'm pretty sure these Faital's are a better fit than the DE10's in my particular application, (no doubt Dave's beautiful aluminum horns play a big part, but I'm doing 2-way with the big KLF10 horn), so I've decided to try these out. They are normally about 100 bucks a pop pre tax & shipping but I was offered a pair for 160 w/ tax & shipping. I will update.

Never experienced that, but if it did happen like you've theorized, you might have sustained voice coil damage.

They come with feet that are spikes with plastic covers. I would remove the covers and use spike pads. The image is of a spike pad with a speaker that is not a klf, just to illustrate the pad.

Ditto. Source has a lot to do with it also. I can think of only one artist who's bass might be over-recorded (Jack Johnson). The rest is under-recorded. So we try to compensate. We shove our speakers into the corners, then the bass gets boomy. Crank up the subwoofer, then we get upper bass cancelation. Low frequency comb filtering is not your friend. Room boundaries filter low frequencies, not just subs. Maybe a reason horn loaded bass reinforcement sounds better is because the horn's length creates enough phase shift to cancel comb filtering of the mains. No idea if or how room nodes are affected though.

https://faitalpro.com/en/products/HF_Drivers/product_details/index.php?id=502010305 https://audioxpress.com/news/faitalpro-announces-two-new-hf-compression-drivers-with-improved-performance-and-reduced-weight Has anyone used or heard this driver? I'd like to know how it sounds, how it compared to the previous driver if it was a replacement, especially if you replaced a stock Klipsch driver. It sounds like it might be a possible upgrade to the k-100-k in the KLF-10: It has the same crossover frequency, is more efficient, has a larger diaphragm, and Faital has a good rep. I have the titanium diaphragms, but even they start to break up at louder volumes and could use more high frequency extension. I submit to the forum's experience and expertise.

I can't. After a bit of research I am beginning to see your point. Specifically: Horn vs. Lens vs. Waveguide.

HA! I freaked out the first time I played this song! I had just finished rebuilding my amp and thought I had failed! The amp was ok, the song has a distortion effect. Like her or not, the music is well recorded, and is great for testing bass. I like her voice and look forward to her music maturing hopefully.

Agree 100%. I've done several restorations of automobiles that were stored for many years with next to no miles on them. When they were brought out of storage, rubber, plastic, and fabric had become dry and brittle, especially rubber, which outgasses over time. Somehow, pliability is maintained with use.

A thought: IF a horn is the assembly, then the horn has two parts, the driver and the lens.

From Wikipedia: In an autotransformer, portions of the same winding act as both the primary winding and secondary winding sides of the transformer. In contrast, an ordinary transformer has separate primary and secondary windings which are not connected to each other.

Every speaker ever built has features that were a compromise, even Belles. That being said, the Belles had a lot FEWER compromises built into them than many, many other speakers. Improvements to a stock Belle can be made, but you're talking about incremental improvements costing significant amounts of time, measurement, and money; simple "swaptronics" won't do it. Belles are say, 90% perfect of design. The last 10% will be the most expensive and effort intensive. I got to A/B Belle's and Chorus ii's back in the day. The Chorus ii's had 90% of the sound the Belles did at more than half the cost. I bought the Chorus ii's.

Yeah, MAHL is a brand now.

I agree with you 100%

Ha! I was just joking with deang, making a reference to the tv show "The Mandalorian", where a group of characters has to keep their identities a secret from the world and their creed is "This is the way". What deang was explaining was matching the original DCR of your coils, which you seem to already know, and also maintaining their mutual inductance values. In other words, since the original coils are so close together, they are going affect each other, and their measured values will differ from their rated values. The measured values are what matter, so if you are using the same rated values in your new crossovers, you will have to place the coils close enough together to be within at least 10% of the measured mutual inductive values of the original coils. Thanks for sharing the diagram.

Can you explain the differences between those two transformers to us M.E.'s?

I think that's right. The 13ohm resistor is the midrange driver so it would have both a high pass and low pass.

MicroMara, When you can, can you make a diagram with values of the rf7 ii crossover? I have yet to find one.

I have a working sub12. Would you recommend the revisions you mention as preventative maintenance? It seems to me a good idea would be to remove and replace the glue at the very least. If so, could you make a list of the revisions you recommend?

Ha! I didn't notice it until you drew it out. The autoformer, while not offering attenuation in series with the two caps, acts like an inductive roll-off, and a third component in the tweeter circuit. That makes it a third order, 18db slope.

If you feel like you are missing something with the Rotel, you owe it to yourself to listen to the chorus II's with a tube amplifier. It will change your life. And don't believe what some say about needing lots of watts. 35 watts of tube power per channel will take the chorus II's to magical heights.

Keep the secrets...This is the way.

I'm wondering if the woofers on top are just set there and these are a kit form of the actual khorn bass bin.

Just saw these on eBay. Does anyone know anything about these? Lister says they are kits form the 50"s 60's, but offers no specs. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Klipsch-Corner-Horn-bass-bins/274184125031?hash=item3fd6a5ba67%3Ag%3AslYAAOSwvFJeEP9o&LH_ItemCondition=3000

We all know from our circuits classes that two components in series can have nothing between them, and if they do, they are no longer in series. I think what glens is saying is that the 2uf cap will still see the complete 13uf coming from the 13uf cap, so the tweeter still sees a 13uf and 2uf cap in series. With the autoformer and midrange driver drawing current from between the two caps, that idea is suspect. Inductors have some capacitance of their own, and maybe the speaker drivers do too. But is it enough to change the capacitance seen by the 2uf cap? Certainly the tweeter is receiving less current. And certainly the 13uf cap is feeding both the tweeter and midrange drivers. I guess the question is: If we consider influence of the autoformer and midrange driver, does the 2uf cap see something other than 13uf?

Even if another component is drawing current from between them?