polizzio

I recently purchased a SVS SB-3000. I had a SB-2000 before that for approx 45 days. Very happy with the SB-3000, it is powerful but super clean. Three things I wanted to point out, SVS has a 5 year warranty which covers everything stem to stern. Many sub manufacturers only do 2 or 3 years on the amp because that's what will fail. And they (manufacturers) know when most fail, hence the shorter warranty period. Second, you can watch the SVS outlet on their main page. They offer 50-100 dollar discounts on the SB-2000 and 3000 there. Customer returns/open box units = same full warranty. Ebay too, I purchased the SB-3000 from an SVS authorized vendor on ebay @ a $100 discount over SVS. Go figure. SVS customer service is unrivaled. 60 day return policy and they pay return shipping. And on line chat for help with any details or setup. I first purchased the 2000, then returned it and purchased the 3000. Both are really strong output units, just the 3000 has 4-5 db more of output. Btw, I have owned an Infinity sub (my first), a Klipsch, 2 Rythmiks (F-15 and a FV-15HP), and now the SVS. I was going to purchase another Rythmik (Brian Ding founder) but the SVS warranty persuaded me. And Rythmik offers 60 day returns but you have to pay return shipping cost and a 100 lb sub, that can add up. Can't say enough good things about SVS support from my brief experiences so far. PSA (power sound audio, Tom worked for many years for another company then started his own business) offers some good sub values too with a full 5 year warranty. Never owned one but guys seem to love em on AVS forums. I'm just not crazy about foam suspensions on transducer cones. Had to abandon a pair of really good Boston Acoustic tower speakers after the surrounds disintegrated after approx 20 years. They looked like brand new but all the foam suspensions crumbled and fell apart. Could have re-foamed em (suspension kits) but I cut my losses at that point.

Should have clarified my origin statement. In a vented cab, its effectively an echo. And in a sealed loudspeaker or sub, the signal is produced, it just doesn't utilize the air pressure/movement from the backside of the cone to enhance bass output. Maybe some echo from cone bounce in a sealed, but not direct output like a vented. In every subwoofer with same transducer and amp power utilized, the vented cab output is always greater output than a sealed, in decibels. Josh Ricci over at data-bass has built many cabinet types and derivatives using the same transducer and amp, and extensively recorded detailed testing using precision equipment. He also writes/contributes to a couple on line sites/magazines. The tuned horn subwoofer holds most of the overall highest output records at data-bass. Some hit 134 db. And Josh has great info/explanation/testing on sub distortion levels at high output. Mr. Ricci knows his stuff! Perhaps one day I might try some foam plugs but no time soon. I haven't even removed one of the grills on my CWs. I did remove the gold/black PWK emblems I stuck on there. I could cross the CWs and the SVS sub @100 hz respectively, so I mostly have sealed low bass. Right now I re-set speaker sizes and crossover to CWs large (full range) and sub low pass @ 100 hz. Double bass, I love it. Awesome while watching tv last night or an action movie blu ray like Live, Die, Repeat. Those freakin helicopters crashing feel and sound like they are in my LR. Flip to straight 2 channel AVR setting for Enya or Alexandra Porat covers and sub falls out of the lineup.

I believe you Carlos about your tuned Forte IIs. Clearly you have very good hearing and know what you are striving for. I had ported subs before and if one really understands the dynamics of the transducer and its reproduction, they create echos to generate bass volume, or tune the cabinet/system to achieve enhanced very low frequency production. Take for example a low cost BIC vented sub...then everybody should just buy one of those (or multiples of)and save their cash for other improvements. Most guys go for vented subs for home theater, maximum impact/slam. And you can tune the cab for say 20 hz enhanced generation. One can do the same with sealed, just need bigger transducers or more of them, and more amp power. Its sealed subs for me going forward. They have some firms building and marketing some massive output subs today. Seaton, JTR, Rythmik, PSA to name a few. And those giant subs that Norwegian builds. 21" transducers....sweet! I'm 61 and my hearing is damaged from loud music ,concerts, drag racing, engines with open headers, and shooting. I cannot hear over 5khz without some major boost. I make every attempt to conserve my hearing now, and for the last 15 years. Ear plugs or muffs are my regular friends. I wear earplugs to mow my yard and most all power tool operation As for the increase in bass @32 hz after plugging 2 of the ports, my best guess would be you effectively re-tuned the cabinet in doing so, from its original design. Like Glen stated above, way more like a sealed cab now. Big time change @ 25hz. You def improved the overall response with your tuning. Well done sir.

Oh and that's 29-21,000 hertz, + or - 3 db. (plus or minus 3 db as most all loudspeakers are rated by their manufacturer) 6 db is a massive deviation in sound levels if you are seeking a truly flat across the board sound reproduction range.

"Sounds much better to my ears. I am confident in my measurements, I did them like 20 different times, different days, and they are consistent." This is all that matters really. Why are you seeking affirmation here on what pleases you? What you are doing is offsetting room gain in the lower bass region, in your specific room. A totally flat sound reproduction across the frequency spectrum 20-20khz. I could go on a long diatribe on sealed vs bass reflex loudspeakers. BR enhances the bass, by utilizing the air movement/sound generation on both sides of the transducer cone. One could theorize that this is not entirely accurate, the rear rebound movement of the transducer cone is an echo of the original signal. Some concur with this assessment. BR also impacts the latency of bass reproduction, critical say in a cello recording/reproduction. Or a pipe organ. Depends on the music genre, and how the music/vocals were originally reproduced and recorded. There are very few sealed home loudspeakers offered new these days, if any. The evolution of BR speaker design over the years is better bass, and more of it imo. Acoustic Research (marketed as air suspension design) made them popular in the later 1950s and into the 60s. My bro in law has a set, still has them sitting high on a shelf unused currently. My old large Advents many years ago were sealed, and sounded really good. I went looking for sealed loudspeakers, couldn't find any large floorstanding models, and recently purchased a new set of Cornwall iii (bass reflex cab) go figure. But I like my bass hot/enhanced most times. Just my preference, flat Audyssey doesn't work for me. Attend a live rock concert, the bass isn't flat by any means. Now for acoustic strings and delicate music (classical and jazz), I dial the bass down big time, or opt for no sub at all. I have a SVS-SB3000 in conjunction with my CWs. Sometimes I like to rattle the windows or paintings on my walls. BR loudspeakers with a sealed 13" 1000 watt subwoofer.....oh my. If I had my choice, I would have purchased large floorstanding loudspeakers of a sealed design, with a 15-18" woofer transducer (or two) but nobody makes those. (Shoot, I could only find 3 offerings with a 15" woofer, Klipsch, BIC, and Cerwin Vega, all BR) Sure you could have them custom made but I have limited/finite resources. The CWs were pushing it but they are American made with gorgeous Indian Rosewood veneer, and sound pretty good. And I think I got a pretty good deal on them. At the end of the day its what is pleasing to your ears, or mine at my house. Our tastes and preferences may not be the same. History of Acoustic Research Loudspeakers Pros and Cons of bass reflex loudspeaker design article on Wikipedia

Crappie are the best eating fish imo. We call em sac a lait down here in south Louisiana. Milky white, soft tender fillets, breaded and deep fried. I've caught a few. Tube jigs, great little fighter. Handsome little fisherman.

Sounds like Mac is stepping up and doing the right thing for you. As they should. Keep us posted on the outcome.

$6400 for a brand new McIntosh tube amplifier and 80 days in you have zero warranty on the tubes? The local Mac dealer is denying warranty coverage on defective tubes? Actually I just searched the Mac warranty in the USA and Canada. Its 3 years electronics, 90 days on the tubes. An iconic manufacturer like McIntosh where today you pay a hefty premium for a high quality product, and you could be spending $300-400 for replacement tubes 92 days into ownership? Read the warranty....within the warranty period the owner pays for shipping both ways. Mac doesn't even cover the cost of return shipping to owner if you must return unit for repairs. No thanks, I will stick to quality solid state amplification/receiver. Tried to attach the Mac warranty pdf here but the file is too large for site limits. But there's more than one way to skin a cat.

WOW.....that's just insane. Who buys this stuff?

Completely agree. Spending more cash than you have to just to demo a pair of speakers you are selling is foolish. Skip the banana plugs and just carefully strip wire ends and twist and connect, making sure you have no loose or shorting strands at the receiver terminals. This worked fine for 50 years, before audiophiles felt the need to spend $500 plus on a single pair of "vastly better" pre-assembled cables/terminal ends. $1450 for a pair of McIntosh 10' speaker cables

I'd say it was a "real" upgrade for sure. You have some really nice toys

I like ur pads, and I don't have to flip the CWs. I'm going with them, least on the left speaker. Knowledge is good and no doubt there is a wealth of it among the members here. I enjoy reading about the vintage Klipsch and the restorations here. I see why some guys here have multiple sets of vintage or Heritage Klipsch loudspeakers. Here is a question to ponder........why is it that audiophiles and people who frequent audio forums are 95% male? Don't see or read of many chicks with big massive subwoofers or loudspeakers at home. I know they like music, guess they just don't get into the technical aspects, or killer home systems. I'm guessing the membership here is 90% male conservatively. Maybe they have their knitting and crafting forums?

Wow, 24" bass drivers, largest I have ever heard of or seen offered. You don't mess around I see. 79 lbs weight each driver. They don't sell those bad boys at parts express Monster home theatre. http://www.precision-devices.com/Product-Details/PD2450 So i am deducing you are located in Norway, or somewhere in Europe. Here is a link to the DataBass website I mentioned earlier. You and others here may enjoy reading Josh's DIY subs and testing results. Also tested many commercially US available subwoofers, some of the leading "big boy" subs (Mark Seaton Submersive subs and JTR Captivators), and some solid info: https://data-bass.com/#/?_k=0ew558

That's pretty much what I purchased at walmart except its a hard plastic slider on the tile side. Claims it won't mark the flooring. Single nail retainer, on the back it recommends a single 1/16" starter drill hole. You stated you removed the Klipsch metal buttons, do you remember if they were attached with a single nail retainer? or multiple pins? Pros for what I purchased is you don't have to worry about locating that pad and it won't slide off while moving speaker. And you don't visually see the pads. Flipping the speakers isn't that big a deal with a second guy helping. Just has tp be done right with zero errors. Really just need to do the left anyways as that is the one I move for access.

Thx for the tip, sir. I shall pick up 4 to try out.

Got it, derivative of 904 cinema speakers. Clearly that horn was never intended for residential usage. Awesome.......when size matters. https://www.klipsch.com/blog/steve-bedard-diy-klipsch-k-402-speaker

I saw those in a pic somewhere here on the forum. It would make life easier, no flipping. Moving a heavy speaker is pretty easy with those? Doesn't try to slip off the riser button when moving? I'll only be moving/sliding that one 2 or 3 feet.

That isn't happening. Would require new LH opening door assembly, install, and painting. Have two ideas, the door stop install suggested earlier, or a 2x4 cut 5" long to lay in front of the CW riser (touching riser at rest) and block any direct contact with the door. I could easily spray it flat black to blend in. Heck I could even glue felt or rubber on both contact ends (bumpers). I just checked for a measurement and the door handle would hit the cabinet edge/veneer if driven there today. That speaker has to either rotate or be pulled out when I need access to my AVR and/or TV rear connections/cabling. I purchased a set of nail in furniture slides at walmart to install but haven't done that yet as I need some help flipping the CWs to remove the existing metal "buttons" and install the slides. That will make it very easy for me to rotate/move that left speaker for access. And prevent damaging my tile flooring. The "blocker" is an easy and simple remedy. If i install the previously mentioned doorstop, it will most likely impede my rotation/moving speaker for AVR cable access. Banana plugs make speaker movement a snap when needed. But I am listening to you guys, still pondering the possibilities. My power went out this morning @ 0554 for 3.25 hours. Severe weather. Just got 2 tornado warnings on cell. It be very dark outside. Going comfort my CWiii.

The boxes are in my attic already. I don't throw out any box for equipment I own. I still have a Denon AVR-3000 I purchased new in approx 1991 sitting in its original box/packing in a closet. The packing/foam inserts for the CW iii are impressive in itself. Klipsch has it going on. You build fine Heritage loudspeakers, you pack them like fine china. They traveled from Hope AR to Vegas, then back to me in south Louisiana. It amazes me why people don't keep boxes/packing. I was looking at a used Yamaha AVR on ebay very recently, 4 months old and the guy doesn't have original box. That's just not smart imo.....what if you have to send it in for warranty repair?

Never seen or knew they made such large horns. Amazing. Thx fuzzydog.

So what are the giant horns left and right? Biggest horns I have ever seen, must have come out of giant monitors or PA speaker. No way that poor little Heresy can keep up with your L&R channels. Is that Danleys you have hiding in the corners for subs? How much total wattage are you pushing in your home theater sound system? Massive! I have a sub demo mp3 compilation you need to listen to in your room. I'm guessing you are familiar with Josh Ricci and the DataBass website?

Parts Express sells plate amps, and a ton of other audio/speaker components. I've ordered twice from them without any issues. https://www.parts-express.com/ link to sub plate amps: https://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer-plate-amplifiers/332

Drill bits. I'll rent the hammer drill. From the above post I could drill the hole and use a slip in metal pin of some sort. Instead of the door stop. To block the travel of the door. Then just lift pin out if needed to move/rotate the speaker, like to access the rear of my receiver/tv/ cables.

Thank you sir.

You're sure this will work? It would be concrete below the tile (slab house). I have a Home Depot 1.5 miles from me and they have a great tool rental dept. What kind of screw would you suggest to use into the wood dowel? The blue concrete screws?