colterphoto1

There is generally a discount listed here even on simultaneous offerings. It's a nicety of 'keeping it in the family'. I think PWK smiles when we do that.

Too far for me too. Well not too far, I just don't have any trips or pony express in that part of the country.

I would not use 409 or any household cleaner. Murphey's oil soap possibly. As always, test inconspicuous area first. forte have stained riser base, you can use the back of it for testing.

yes it will. I've had walnut fortes that looked this dry and Khorns that sat in storage for 7 years. Get them really clean first, use a tack cloth, and apply the clear Watco. You'll be amazed.

This is for a home theater setup, right? Guys may not like this but I'm partial to Yamaha receivers. The YPAO auto eq works fabulously, the user interface for the surround modes etc is pretty easy to get through, lots of inputs and such. The newer stuff can be controlled by iPad or iPhone app also. Depending on how loud you listen you don't need a lot of watts, but a lot depends on size of the room.

It's a little stinky but not hazardous. Nothing compared to the BLO at the factory.

And for you - Speaker Repair Merit Badge!

Gary, the Kronos is what we spec for our passenger-band on the Cruise to the Edge with Yes. We're getting two of them this year, the fellas and gals bring along a digital mellotron, couple mini-moogs, and rack goodies and we play prog rock until the wee hours of the morning.

Actually a dented cap doens't change the sound one iota unless it's torn and buzzes. Material for replacement doesn't really matter, I just try to match what's there before, probably the pressed felt. Parts Express has a couple different models too. Order a slightly larger size so it will cover where you cut the old one away. I'd remove the old because a passive radiator has MASS and you don't want to change that too much. Cut away the old one using an Exacto knife laid flat to the cone, be careful not to cut into the cone. Dry fit the new one, mark the border lightly with pencil. Remove the cap and apply glue below the marked line. Set the cap in place and use a roll of tape or large socket to weight down until the glue dries. Guys who recone speakers apply a second bead of glue to the outer edge once the cap is in place. Don't use for 24 hours.

There is a thread on the waffle grille 'mod' on here somewhere... I did it to my fortes as I have cats. Did it as preventative measure.

Klipsch would not have a re-foam (rubber) kit available, I'm certain of it. Nearly never had any recone kits even back in the day. You can get kits to redo the surround, it needs to be the same diameter, material, and silhouette as the original to work like the original. Hopefully this is what SS will be doing. I'd doubt they are rebuilding the entire cone if it doesn't need to be. Interestingly, sometimes there are a variety of items used to add mass to passive cones, I've seen large area washers and even steel nuts epoxied inside a drone cone before. No the waffle grille does not affect the sound at all. We've been using them on PA speakers for years, Amazingly, the sound figures out how to escape through the holes!

Remember, although they may be stained walnut, they started life as Birch,Raw.

I've always just used the plain (no colorant added, which they make, so be careful) Watco REJUVENATING oil. Read the directions. I lay the can flat and gently shake to get the solids fully dissolved, never shake hard, which creates air bubbles. Several thin coats much better than a heavy coat. Use lint-free cloths and be careful on edges not to catch any splintered grain. I once created a horrible gummy finish on a forte, but more Watco dilutes and can remove any overage. Let the coat sit a bit and remove excess with LOTS of rubbing. It's the rubbing that removes any stray wood fibres and really makes 'em glow!

Good job on locating a problem and finding a suitable vendor to make the repairs. Of course, forte's SHOULD be some distance from the wall. Colter's Law states 'begin placement with rear of speaker a distance equal to the sum of the diameter of all rear-mounted ports or passive drivers'. So that's one foot for a forte. Adjust to suit to taste, corner placement helps incredibly as now your passive radiator is now corner loaded. For those with inquisitive infants or curious cats, a waffle grille with clamps can be easily installed with just a drilll. No need to drill all the way through the cabinet, wood screws that grab the rear panel but don't extend through will hold the clamp/grille in place.

I'll be down that way with gf's CRV in May if someone does a buy & hold and needs them brought up north. KW>Miami>Orlando>Atlanta>Nashville>Louisville>Indianapolis

The method outlined above requires that only two small holes be drilled, an is nearly invisible should a future owner wish to reverse the modification. The panel shown above would work but requires use of a jigsaw. Your solution is a much nicer installation than a panel inset in the interior of the cabinet, which would make installing large gauge wires difficult.

^ correct you are sir. Now back to our OP please. DJK I was hoping for your thoughts on my proposed upgrade path(s)

^ how you gonna mount that in a 3/4" panel?

bump for me to reread.

KP pro 'Heresy' sized speakers for comparison. For potential buyers of my KP262 cabinets. I still have all these cabinets, as well as a few other of the smaller Klispch pro speakers. Recently did some SMAART testing and plotting response curves. Will get those from my friend soon and post as well as doing another listening evaluation. Since then I've added a fresher pair of HIP to the mix, and KP172, KP110 to the collection. It'll be interested to see all the curves, not quite sure how to display them all but stacking 2-3 per chart of somewhat similar curves seems to visually show the differences in response.

YES that's exactly what I've used. Reuse one of the two existing holes, drill out to just the size of the shaft, use a double banana plug to locate the other (in case someone might want to use that style wire termination), mark and drill the second hole. LINE UP THE SHAFT HOLES on the binding posts (I put the double banana plug in from the TOPS of the shafts (not the end) and then remove. Put an inverted socked over the shaft to cushion the blow and tap into place. Fill other previous hole in back of cabinet with dab of putty or caulk (PL200 is a good color)

^ does that really make sense? Because I know the KHJ are clearer, but something makes me just want to have Klipschorns in there. Auditory memory being what it is, once I stop comparing them, and with some small tweaks, I'm pretty certain that I'll love the Khorns.

Congratulations! A suitable product to use on oiled Klipsch speakers is Watco Rejuvenating Oil. Can be found with the stains at Lowes. Careful to get the clear type, they make it was some stains as well (like Old English). Shake lightly but thoroughly before use (don't make bubbles), wipe on thin coat, let it sit, wipe away excess or it might form a gooey film. Several coats much better than laying it on heavy. Steve Phillips at Tech Support used to say about old dry Heritage speakers ' Oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year' Well not quite that much, but you get the idea. It's the elbow grease that really makes them shine! nice pile 'o amps btw.

Very nice! Good to hear reports like this. I did a LSI-BG-split the other day and it's nearly so toppy now that I can't stand it. Will give a rest and try again.

I know, right? shut up and get in the truck!