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Found 129 results

  1. Hi I have an older 440W KSW-12 downward firing subwoofer and I am contemplating on whether or not to replace the OEM paper 12” driver with a newer copper spun type OR a 3rd party driver from JL Audio, Dayton Audio, etc. Has anyone replaced their older KSW or equivalent driver with a newer one and if so did you notice an increase in punch or perceived output @ the same level with the OEM driver or any other differences? The bottom end frequency for the OEM driver is 24Hz Any ideas or thoughts? I currently have: + One pair of Klipsch F30 front speakers (to be moved in back to use as back surrounds) + One pair of RP-500SA Atmos speakers placed on top of the F30’s + One Polk Audio 5 driver center speaker + One pair of Polk Audio Monitor 50 Series II’s for the back surrounds + One pair of Klipsch RS-14’s for side/high surrounds + Klipsch KSW-12 subwoofer + Onkyo TX-RZ840 Receiver (For Theater) + Homebrew 40 wattt x 2 tube driven pre/power amplifier (For Music only) + A Project One pure analog tuner - the good old days My goal: Obtain a new OR USED primary front firing subwoofer (preferably the SPL-120) and then use this KSW-12 either as a 2nd sub behind my couch for home theater use or separately (non zoned) with my TX-NR708 receiver in another room for whatever. Tnx Tim Dickerson, CEM, NREMT-P ARS N9NU
  2. Hi all, Selling a pair of SB2000 SVS Subs "black ash". Tight and great sounding subs. Id prefer to sell both. Local pickup preferred. If you would like to have them shipped please contact me and maybe we can work something out. I called SVS once and they wanted 50.00 for each box so I didn't order more. The subs are in very good condition. These subs still have transferable warranty left. I live approx 15 miles north of Louisville, KY If you have interest please message me for contact info etc. Thanks
  3. Hello! So the Klipsch R112SW is on sale at $399 and I am looking for a good 12 inch sub for my system, however I have heard that the amp gives out after a few months and I is faulty. So My question is should I take a chance with the R-112SW or go with the R-120SW or the older version R-12SW? 112sw has a max 600W amp while the other two have a 400W amp. A bit new to this stuff so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  4. Please I need your advice. I have just bought some Herresy speakers, and now I have got interested in a subwoofer Klipsch R-12SW, but my chinese tube amplifier only have 4 inputs and 1 output (for speakers). Is it possible to connect the subwoofer to the amplifier or should I just forget it? Thank you MICHAEL
  5. Hi. I have a ProMedia THX 2.1 and the right speaker is going out. I'm thinking of upgrading my desktop speakers something larger powered by a amp... BUT I'd love to put this subwoofer to work in my new desktop system. The amp I'm going to use has a sub out, but I'm wondering if there's a way to wire it to the Klipsch subwoofer (from the ProMedia THX 2.1 system. Seems like it should be doable as the sub has it's own amp, etc. Thanks in advance, Eric S.
  6. I'm building a new house and I'm installing 5 R-2650-CSM II IN-CEILING SPEAKER for the sound system in the great room; 3 in the front and two in the back. What subwoofer option is the best to pair with these speakers? Bonus question - what AV receiver characteristics should I look for with these speakers? Thanks,
  7. I have a larger (33x15x9) room and a new set of Klipsch RP-600m speakers. I also have a pair of 15" downward-firing subs. My crossover (JL Audio CR-1) is capable of discreet R/L stereo bass management. At what frequency should this pair of satellites be crossed over to the subs for stereo audio use only? I've had audio amigos advise me that I should set the crossover as closely as possible to the -3dB roll-off point of the satellites, but as I see it, this has numerous potential disadvantages: 1. The acoustic roll-off of the speakers will be added to that of the upstream electronic crossover, causing asymmetrical crossover rates between the satellites and the subs. 2. The intermodulation distortion of the satellites will be increased because of the higher woofer excursion on the satellites. 3. The single 6.5" woofers of the satellites will be stressed at high volumes in my room. I've (conversely) also had other audio amigos recommending to me that since I do have two subs, and because those subs will (initially) be located as closely as possible to the satellites, that I set the crossover to as high a frequency as possible (150 Hz. with the JL). As I see it, this does have some advantages, but also some disadvantages: On the plus side: 1. The intermodulation distortion of the satellites should be minimized because the longer excursions required for lower bass will be handled by the subs (whose larger cone area will minimize distortion for the same volume). 2. The amount of current required to run the satellites will be greatly reduced allowing the use of much lower wattage tube amplifiers if desired. 3. By judicious use of the phase knob on the sub's plate amps, I can move the subs more independently of the satellite locations. But on the minus side: 1. Having a higher crossover frequency may allow the transition from satellites to subs to become more audible. 2. At higher frequencies, acoustic localization of the subs may become more likely. 3. The downward-firing design of the subs may muffle the higher frequencies. The specific subs being used are Powersound Audio S1510DF models, a sealed-box design that has worked well in my room before. I plan to use the JL crossover with 24dB / octave slopes, rather than the more ubiquitous 12. So noting that movie soundtrack use is NOT a priority for this system, where should the crossover point be set? Thanks in advance for your help - Boomzilla
  8. I am told by Klipsch that one channel is out on my R20-B subwoofer, resulting in diminished bass response. Klipsch does not repair and two of their authorized repair centers do not have parts as this model is no longer manufactured. "Sorry." 'Click.' Sucks to be me. Ugh!! Do I have a two year old boat anchor? Some background. At some point, there began a popping sound from the woofer when changing channels or inputs, when there was before. My thought was that something muted when this action occurred. An original called Klipsch was responded with, this is not a fault of the speaker. My cable provider denied any connection to their service and this popping anomaly. Again, I assumed some muting what's happening on the cable provider audio side. So, I learned to live with it, turning my volume down when changing channels or inputs. Ultimately I began to notice loss in bottom. Another call to Klipsch revealed you could be a circuitry problem and this issue was not unheard-of by the tech who serviced me, stating that the circuitry problem could have resulted in blowing out one channel in the subwoofer. Anyone? Bueller? Bueller??
  9. Up for sale is a Klipsch SW10 II subwoofer in the black finish. It has a 10" woofer in front and a 12" passive radiator in the back. It works great, but I just don't have a need for it asking $100.
  10. Hi! I've recently bought a klipsch sub and hooked it up to my receiver using the cable from the attached image. I chose this cable because my receiver only has one input for sub pre out. When playing music, no base comes from the sub. I'm trying to stay away from using LFE cable because I mainly use my system for music, but do anyone have an idea why this connection doesn't work?
  11. Hi! I've recently added a klipsch sub (r-115sw) to my home audio system, and I was wondering wether to plug my sub and amp though LFE or a RCA Y-splitter. I mainly use my system for music and in regards to that, i've heard differing statements. Some say LFE is the best option for movies and RCA the best option for music. Others even say that for an untrained ear like mine, I wouldn't even notice the difference between LFE and RCA. So what i'm asking is, if my main use for my system is listening to music, should I connect my sub and amp through LFE or RCA? If any of you have any suggestions as to what cable would be good/compatible with my sub, I would be grateful. Thanks!
  12. I bought this from Amazon 08-26-2018. I can provide a receipt if requested. It is in great condition and was hardly used. Will ship in original box and packing. will ship for $35.00 UPS SOLD
  13. Hi guys! I had this subwoofer for 4 days and yesterday when i played playstation, i heard a weird crackle and pop from the subwoofer. After that, it stopped working. There was a green light on it, but no sound. I removed the powercord for 5 minutes, and now, everytime i plug in the power this happens. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=983QxAEIF3w Everytime, the element gets sucked in and the green light lights up whenever it does it. And it does this 3.4 times until it shuts completely off. No green light anymore until i remove the powercord and plug it in again. Any idea what causes this? Should i just deliver it back and get a new one?
  14. Is there any subwoofer that will just work (plug in) to the existing Klipsch RM-15 Bookshelf Speakers that I have? I have the two of them connected to my PC and they sound fantastic, but they could use the addition of a subwoofer. I see a couple of lower priced Klipsch subs that would do the trick if they work. Does anyone have any experience with this? Suggestions are appreciated.
  15. SOLD I've decided to sell my beloved RSW15's in search of even bigger / better. My 4 RSW15's have served me very well in my dedicated theater room and have been well taken care of. Looking upgrade to Dual SVS PB16's, or something from PSA or JTR. All are in perfect working condition. I have 2 grill covers: - Grill #1 has 1 peg missing. - Grill #2 is missing all 4 pegs and has some type of glue on the fabric from where the previous owner attempted to glue them back on. (1) Maple RSW-15 Subwoofer - (SOLD) (1) Maple RSW-15 Subwoofer - $650.00 (1) Maple RSW-15 Subwoofer (Scratches on cabinet, few dimples on passive radiator) - $650.00 (1) Black RSW-15 Subwoofer - $650.00 Comes from a Smoke and Pet Free Home Not willing to ship unless you arrange for packing & shipping. Willing to meet you somewhere in Florida. Thanks, Michael
  16. The wife is tired of my insanity. My Belles are up for sale and so is my DIY subwoofer and amp. The amp is about 3 months old (Crown XLS2002) and the subwoofer box is about the same. The two Dayton HF15 drivers are about a year old. It all works swimmingly and will melt your eyeballs and earholes. I'm asking $500 for everything. The crown amp is $500 new, the drivers are $172 a piece new. If you just want the drivers and the amp I can ditch the box. I'm in Northern CA. Would prefer local pickup but am willing to discuss shipping.
  17. I’ve just purchased a pair of RF-7 iii’s. My Denon receiver is underpowered for these power hungry puppies. I work in pro audio and happen to have a Crown DCi 4|600 amp with DSP. They’re connected and sound incredible!! Obviously my amp doesn’t have a pre-amp out or any way to split the incoming signal. Looking for any pointers on how to better add the sub to this setup, instead of the y-splitter I’m using at the moment. It works, but I’m $9000 into this system and would like to know if I’m connecting the sub the smartest way possible. I googled for a pre-amp splitter but haven’t had any luck. Any insight is greatly appreciated.
  18. Hi, I am using the R-15pm with the R-112SW subwoofer, and I am wondering if I should use LFE when playing my records? I am so newbie when It comes to setting up the subwoofer. What should I think about? I am also using the Rega RP1 turntable and I feel the sound is to low when I am maxing it out.. When using bluetooth or digital source the sound is WAY higher. Thank you guys for helping me out here in the dark.
  19. First of all, good day to you! and please can you give me a hand?. Join my journy with this subwoofer (not native language, sorry for any mistake): Right after the warranty ended this subwoofer started to fail, first it started making a noise when turned ON, like a grounding or false contact for a few seconds and then it was silent and working fine but at random moments started to do the same sometimes i had to turn it off because it started to do it loud (always jumping from quiet to loud at random, the noise not the audio, i found it on youtube with the word "rattling sound" but no pops or anything else) after a few weeks this got worse and one day after turning on the Sub it went Off seconds later, the only way to turn it back ON was disconnecting the power cord and plug it in again. I took the subwoofer to fix on the same place i bought it, they fixed and told me it was the power supply and 8 months later (since last week) im having similar issues but not that bad, this time it does this noise when i turn it ON after being Off a few hours and just for a few seconds and never again. Since they told me it was the power supply and the place is 2hs away from my home (the fix was expensive too)... i decided to open the damn thing myself and check for a bad capacitor or something since i know how to replace components and since is doing something similar from last time (before the fix) i figure the solution could be the same, well i took a look at the board and i couldn't find anything looking bad (only yellow stuff I believe is glue that came from factory and some brown stuff from the same thing, the heat turned the yellow to brown?), so i decided check on the back of the board soldering marks and replace some of the same components to test and also clean the pcb from the flux they have used. Looking the components i saw only two capacitors that looked like discolored (from heat maybe?) and decided to replace this two only to test, results: Both 22uf 50v were replaced with 22uf 63v Then powered the Sub and voila! the quiet to loud random noise stopped but still does some low noise went i turn it ON from a few hours of having the Sub unplugged (check the video): https://youtu.be/lvhrqyqhzuA https://youtu.be/0CSbTVZGDJ8 Now the sound level remains low and last just a few seconds (10-20) and remain on the same sound level, it doesn't go from quiet to very loud at random so i assume im on the right track. After this wall of text (sorry) can you give a hand and tell me which component could be causing this or if i could fix it myself just replacing capacitors? if yes is ok to use capacitor with a little higher V but same uF? Is hard to get the exact same. Already contacted klipsch support but it said 7 days... maybe someone here got the same problem and found a way to fix it?. Here some pics. http://imgbox.com/g/sBh24N9I1y EDIT: I found a picture for what it seems a leaked capacitor but is just the yellow glue burned brown i think, this is a pic from a R115SW model.
  20. Can I do this and will it improve the former sound or does the amplifier play too large of a role (plus I know the design for the 10d is very different)?
  21. Hello, I have a model # R-115SW. I purchased it roughly in spring 2016. I think I am just past the 2 year warranty mark. Anyway, the sub gets limited use. Usually it's turned off or in the standby mode. I actually have 2 of these subs connected to an Onkyo RZ900. The one that is malfunctioning is hard wire connected to the receiver. I have noticed that it has started making a clicking sound that repeats at the same beat /rhythm. This happens anytime the sub is turned on, not needed to be connected to the receiver or receiving a signal. Has anyone had this issue and an answer about what is causing this? The second sub is working fine and is connected wirelessly. I have had this system for about 2 years and never had any issues until now.
  22. Any tip on how to setup a subwoofer for best sound? On sub itself and in the receiver too?
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