WMcD Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Attached is an article about using yellow glue to attach veneer with an iron. It is one of the first articles I saw on the subject. Presently many people are using Heat Lock glue. None the less, some of the techniques mentioned may be of interest. It's a 1.6 MB file. I didn't want to compress it too much because the pictures are nice. Best, Wm McD Easy Veneering with a Household Iron (compressed).pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Because the temps at which yellow glue will work does vary between brands of yellow glue, is why Joe (woodworker.com) had the titebond folks develop a thermoplastic glue called "Heatlock" a few years ago. It's a liquid and will cure at about 200 degrees consistently. Once the temp is achieved a catalyst starts working and it then dries hard. This technique involving yellow glue is the key to removing old veneer also. Hair dryer will soften it just enough..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockets Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 I've done a few projects using Titebond and an Iron with mixed success. It goes on easy and looks good to the point you're patting yourself on the back. Then you apply a finish and that's when the trouble begins... I haven't used Joes glue, so it may be better than Titbone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Warren Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 I just completed a project using Titan DX water-based contact adhesive. 10mil paper backed walnut on MDF. Two coats of adhesive on veneer and substrate. Excellent hold-down, very strong stuff. After two weeks, no delams or bubbles. The veneer was oiled (BLO + terp, 2:1) last week, no problems. Second oil treatment to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Heatlock is a lot better than Titebond II. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted January 3, 2009 Author Share Posted January 3, 2009 Rockets, Can you tell us more? I can only guess that the heated glue bled through the veneer and messed up the finish. Wm McD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockets Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 I've never had any bleed through, just a bad case of the mumps, and not on every project. When I did have air bubbles, they were every where, some big, some pin heads. I thought I had the process down pat as you can tap on the veneer and hear when it's lifted, but I learned that doesn't always work. Reheating the bubbles will get some of them to stay down, but never all of them. I've popped them, injected fresh glue, used damp rags to steam them and even slit them, but haven't found the magic solution that works everytime. For me, using a water base or oil base finish didn't matter either. Different substrates may make a difference, but I don't have the experience to say for certain. I think the 'Master' Greg has said that using paper backed veneer is the way to go....Seriously Greg your work is out of this world. Anyway, that's bad news for me as I have already bought my veneer for my Lascalas (when ever I find the time to do them), and it ain't paper backed [:'(] Yeah, I know it's not too late to buy all new paper backed veneer, but I don't know what I'd do with the stuff I've already bought. It may not matter as termites have probably eaten the veneer I have...it's been that long... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Thanks for the excellent PDF William, I saved a copy to my computer so I can reference it in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJkizak Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 I just bought the veneer with the glue already applied and used the 400 degree iron. Don't know what kind of glue it was though. JJK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Anyway, that's bad news for me as I have already bought my veneer for my Lascalas (when ever I find the time to do them), and it ain't paper backed [:'(] Yeah, I know it's not too late to buy all new paper backed veneer, but I don't know what I'd do with the stuff I've already bought. It may not matter as termites have probably eaten the veneer I have...it's been that long... I have a whole bunch of raw wood veneer in storage too, but I won't use it. It's just not worth it to me, as enticing as it is everytime I open one of the boxes and see the beautiful wood veneer all rolled up in there, the disappointment is too great in the end. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longdrive03 Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 I've used the iron on method with Titebond II glue and it works great with the wood back veneer I have. Mine has a poplar back and is about 1/16" thick. It doesn't bubble at all. I roll on two coats with a foam roller and use the ole' Kroger paper sack to cover the veneer to avoid burning. I've used wipe on poly with the cherry and mahogany and it worked fine. Just finished a five speakers for a friend of my son and no problems. Here's a pic. I think the problem is the thickness of the veneer and whether it is paper backed or thin raw veneer. Rockets, what kind of veneer were you going to use on you LaScalas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longdrive03 Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlton Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 I've had real good luck using raw veneer on small projects such as cabinets and wood cases. Always have small problems with larger projects like Heresy's and Cornwall's. Checking and occasional bubbles. With oily woods like Rosewood, I have not found a good glue to use. I am considering hide glue next. I have enough Santos Rosewood veneer left to do a pair of Heresy's. This is a picture of a wooden cabinet I made using Santos Rosewood and poplar. Semi gloss lacquer finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockets Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Nice job, especially on the radius. I'll bet that was hard to do! I have only raw veneer w/o any backing of any kind. Mostly birds eye maple, some burl (walnut if I remember right), and I think I still have some crazy figured bubinga left....which is what I used on my floor that gave me so many problems. I used some of the bubinga on sample piece and it was perfect. Go figure. Why a backed veneer works better than raw is something I'd like to know. I can't see how the glue would prefer paper vs. wood over the other. Maybe it's the added thickness, I don't know. I think they used to use hide glue long ago, when veneer was much thicker. I've used hide glue in my glass etching work. It's normally used to chip glass. basically when it dries it shrinks, and as it does it literally rips the surface off of glass. I don't know how they got away with using it with veneer! Actually the glass in the back ground of this video on veneer ironing was chipped with hide glue. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qI2wWSZ8UW8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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