chrome cleaning and polishing

[Timmikid]

Yeah, I already made up my mind not to use that. It would be interesting to test and analize that stuff though, but indeed not on my MC's!

[richinlr]

I've had good luck with nevr-dull Recommended by the local Harley shop. I've only used it for drum parts, so can't vouch for it's affect on letters.

Nevr-dull IS the stuff to use. Non-abrasive and easy to clean up. I have used it on classic cars for years.

!!!!!

I really don't need this kind of reply from some self appointed expert that needs to beat his chest to convince me how expert he his. The only thing further comment I have is that Nevr-Dull is indeed effective when used properly. And it works on aluminum or chrome. Billet or whatever. Used properly means LIGHTLY and not ham fisted and then followed by a clean terry cloth rag to clean the chemical off.

[twistedcrankcammer]

I really don't need this kind of reply from some self appointed expert that needs to beat his chest to convince me how expert he his. The only thing further comment I have is that Nevr-Dull is indeed effective when used properly. And it works on aluminum or chrome. Billet or whatever. Used properly means LIGHTLY and not ham fisted and then followed by a clean terry cloth rag to clean the chemical off.

Rich,

Question: Do you have all of these products in your possession, so that you have and can evaluate the results side by side????

"Your Harley Dealer told you" HaHahaHa!!! Thousands of harley dealers out there. Big differance from a production bike with alot of production chrome VS: a show bike!!

QUESTION: How many magazine layouts has your Harley dealer produced???

"I have used it on classic cars for years"

QUESTION: What is your idea of a "classic car"???

Statement: There is a very big difference in the level of a "Classic Car" that goes to car shows and a magazine layout spread car or bike. There is even a bigger spread between a magazine layout car and a magazine cover car!!

You may have noticed that my log in is TwistedCrankCammer, that is because besides a dual 4 BBL 427 Hi-Riser, I also own a 427 FORD SOHC hemi with a 6 ft. timing chain. I am also building an all aluminum big bore Carrol Shelby Block, Bill Coon Aluminum headed 427 SOHC in the neighborhood of 528 inches with twin turbos. I used to sell FE parts and own two 1967 390 GT fastbacks and a 1069.5 G Code Boss 302 which is one of 1628 cars made that year. I have been asked and have been a judge at car shows because of my extensive car knowledge.

Now I will ask you again, do you own and use the entire group of products mentioned so that it is even possible for you to make an informed descission??

What car show awards, magazine spreads, cover cars and judging gives you the expertise to question what I have posted??

What is your perception of a "Collector Car"???

I challenge you to go to www.fordfe.com and ask a general concensus if anybody has heard of me, and thinks I know anything about cars what-so-ever. I use the same log on there, twistedcrankcammer

I challenge you to go to www.auto.groups.yahoo.com/group/vmoatech , sign up, go to photos, go to page #5 (they are in alphabetical order) open up the photo album titled Rogers Nitroused V-Gas V-Max , that is my bike, and that is Jon Cornell of UFO enterprises. Go on the forum, I use twistedcrankcammer there as well. Ask if anybody has heard of Jon Cornell or some twistedcrankcammer ******* named Roger Gordon and ask if anybody thinks I know anything about bikes, cars, or show finishes??

So let's hear your credentials and a way of verifying it shall we?? Put up or SU??

Roger

[Don Richard]

The only thing further comment I have is that Nevr-Dull is indeed effective when used properly.

Never-Dull is a product best used to polish unplated metals such as brass or aluminum. It will scratch and even remove chrome plating.

[Blvdre]

"Your Harley Dealer told you" HaHahaHa!!! Thousands of harley dealers out there. Big differance from a production bike with alot of production chrome VS: a show bike!!

I'll take the rap for that statement, TCH. What the hell do I know, They recommended it, I tried it and it worked well for cruddy old drum parts, cleaned them up nice. You, and now Richard, have issued cautions about it not being the right choice for chrome cleaning, so I'll read through some of the other recommendations.

Don't take this the wrong way, TCH - It sounds like you have a lot of experience and know how, but people won't take you seriously if you come off as a mean-spirited braggy kid. Just a thought, I'll mind my own business now. feel free to tell me to go to hell.

[richinlr]

OK, let's talk.

When I refer to classic cars I mean cars > 25 years old. I currently own a 1973 MGB which I have owned since 1978. Do you have a car that you have owned for 29 yrs? This car won 2nd in class at the New Orleans British Car show two years in a row. I have forgotten more about MG's than most people will ever know-no brag, just fact.

I also own a 2006 BMW M Roadster of which approx. 6800 were made worldwide.

I generally do not use many of the newer products because, frankly, I have been disappointed in so many of them it makes me tired. Now a few questions for you:

1. Tell me how surface hardness affects which product you use to polish anything.

2. What does a harder substance ALWAYS do to a softer substance? Knowing the answer to this question will enable you to polish ANYTHING.

3. What is the difference between DuPont No. 7 car polish and Dupont Rubbing compound and Maguire's liquid crystal polish? And why do the two DuPont products not make much since nowdays? Hint: It is NOT because they are too coarse - both of these products have a use on a certain kind of paint (what kind of paint?).

4. What makes Bon Ami unique for polishing glass and certain other finishes?

5. What kind of wax (type, not brand) always produces the best shine?

I have been looking for better ways to polish stuff for about 40 yrs now. I have tried a whole lot of things and trust me, a buffer is NOT the answer. When you want a mirror finish it generally takes hand work.

I don't have all the "credentials" you have. I am just an old mechanical engineer that uses just about every bit of knowledge I have gained over the years to try to figure out a way that works - I generally ignore hype and I am a perfectionist.

Again, used properly, Nevr-Dull is a good product. There indeed are others but their use depends upon the material in question. I don't suppose you have ever used 1200 grit sandpaper followed by Maguire's Liquid Crystal to polish plastic? Takes a little work but the results are pretty awesome if you do it right.

By the way, defining "collector car" is generally meaningless because the very definition depends on who you ask. My collector car may not be yours.

[Blvdre]

Poking around on the net, there seems to be an even split as far as nevr dull is concerned. Some people swear by it for chrome, some claim it scratches. Must be the batting that scratches, seem pretty soft though. Richard, I assume it's the solvent that removes the chromium? It's a bit of a moot point for most of the vintage drum hardware I clean up, since micro scratches are the least of the cosmetic problems. The Nevr Dull is good at cleaning up the pitting and rust. This should make you cringe: Some hardware's bad enough to require 0000 steel wool as a last resort.

[twistedcrankcammer]

 OK, let's talk.

When I refer to classic cars I mean cars > 25 years old.  I currently own a 1973 MGB which I have owned since 1978. Do you have a car that you have owned for 29 yrs? This car won 2nd in class at the New Orleans British Car show two years in a row. I have forgotten more about MG's than most people will ever know-no brag, just fact.

I also own a 2006 BMW M Roadster of which approx. 6800 were made worldwide.

I generally do not use many of the newer products because, frankly, I have been disappointed in so many of them it makes me tired. Now a few questions for you:

1. Tell me how surface hardness affects which product you use to polish anything.

2. What does a harder substance ALWAYS do to a softer substance? Knowing the answer to this question will enable you to polish ANYTHING.

3. What is the difference between DuPont No. 7 car polish and Dupont Rubbing compound and Maguire's liquid crystal polish? And why do the two DuPont products not make much since nowdays? Hint: It is NOT because they are too coarse - both of these products have a use on a certain kind of paint (what kind of paint?).

4. What makes Bon Ami unique for polishing glass and certain other finishes?

5. What kind of wax (type, not brand) always produces the best shine? 

I have been looking for better ways to polish stuff for about 40 yrs now. I have tried a whole lot of things and trust me, a buffer is NOT the answer. When you want a mirror finish it generally takes hand work.

I don't have all the "credentials" you have. I am just an old mechanical engineer that uses just about every bit of knowledge I have gained over the years to try to figure out a way that works - I generally ignore hype and I am a perfectionist.

Again, used properly, Nevr-Dull is a good product. There indeed are others but their use depends upon the material in question. I don't suppose you have ever used 1200 grit sandpaper followed by Maguire's Liquid Crystal to polish plastic? Takes a little work but the results are pretty awesome if you do it right.

By the way, defining "collector car" is generally meaningless because the very definition depends on who you ask. My collector car may not be yours.

 

One of my 1967 S code 390 GT fastback mustangs is my very first car that I bought before I even had a drivers liscense and drove in hi school, I got my first job when I was 15, so I bought the car in 1979 or 80. I first had a .060 over 390 with 427 lowriser dual 4BBL intake, a pair of 625 competition Carter carbs, malory dual point, accel super coil, 428 cobra jet hydraulic cam. Hooker competition plus headers. From there, I built a fesh .030 428 cobra jet with 406 tri power intake, next I bought and built a 427 center oiler 1964 bloch with factory Hi-Riser heads, a Hi_Riser dual 4 BBl intake with 660 holley center squirters, solid tappet cam, and 12.5/1 0.30 over slugs. I owned all of these in my car, bought my first cammer engine, and was playing with nitrous by the time I was 20.

Roger

[richinlr]

The only thing further comment I have is that Nevr-Dull is indeed effective when used properly.

Never-Dull is a product best used to polish unplated metals such as brass or aluminum. It will scratch and even remove chrome plating.

If it removes chrome plating then the "chrome" plating might not be real chrome. Never had this problem with good quality chrome plate.

[richinlr]

The only thing further comment I have is that Nevr-Dull is indeed effective when used properly.

Never-Dull is a product best used to polish unplated metals such as brass or aluminum. It will scratch and even remove chrome plating.

C'mon guys, chrome (and a bit of nickel) is what is added to stainless steel to make it stainless. If it's real chrome it shouldn't come off with Nevr-Dull.

[johnyholiday]

Russians use chocolate to polish aluminium the oils shine

[Don Richard]

If it removes chrome plating then the "chrome" plating might not be real chrome. Never had this problem with good quality chrome plate.

The chrome layer is .001 in. or less. It is not uniform. Never-Dull usage can and does remove the chrome from the thin spots down to the nickel, producing the yellow look.

[joshnich]

Here is a good solution from Terry DeWick.

"For chrome I use Wenolhttp://www.wenol.com/%29' target="_blank">,
it gets the rust and oxidation. For the glass I use Turtle Wax Carnuba,
can use it on painted surfaces just don't rub it a lot or you will end
up with a beautiful gloss finish. For general dirt I use clear Ammonia,
is very gentle on lettering, both the Wenol and Turtle Wax can eat at
painted lettering if you rub to hard, the metal ID/information plates
are safe.. Do not use Windex, or 409 type cleaners as they attack
lettering and painted surfaces."

Terry has probably serviced more Mcintosh amps than just about anyone alive. I would tend to go with his recommendation if you are intent on using a product. I still beileve that gently cleaning with a microfiber cloth can yield excellent results without damaging the lettering. I would rather have the lettering in tact and less of a shine than visa versa! Having seen many vintage mac amps without the lettering it's pretty clear that a lot of people used inaproprate products over the years!

Josh

[richinlr]

If it removes chrome plating then the "chrome" plating might not be real chrome. Never had this problem with good quality chrome plate.

The chrome layer is .001 in. or less. It is not uniform. Never-Dull usage can and does remove the chrome from the thin spots down to the nickel, producing the yellow look.

I have chrome plating that is 36 years old on my car and has no yellow spots...

[germerikan]

One of my buddies swears that he uses flour (yep the same you bake with) to clean his chrome, never tried it myself. He is a Greenie though.

[moffer]

Roger,

i'm not into all this bs..............however i would like to ask can i get a good product in canada, ie Simichrome at Canadian Tire or a local speed shop etc.

thanks moffer

[twistedcrankcammer]

Roger,

i'm not into all this bs..............however i would like to ask can i get a good product in canada, ie Simichrome at Canadian Tire or a local speed shop etc.

thanks moffer

Moffer,

I can't tell you about Canadian speed shops, etc., I just buy it on-line. You can also usually get it on ebay as well. Good Luck.

Roger